muggzy Posted October 16, 2008 Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 (edited) I'm a total novice rebuilding a Banshee that burned up a piston and really need some help. Just finished installing the Hot Rods crank and reassembling the tranni. I'm going through the "transmission shifting check and adjustment". Shifting started to seem OK into 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and maybe 4th but then it "hangs" and wont go up or down. When I tried adjusting the "shift lever adjust bolt" (cam screw) to center the shift shaft hook around two pins on the shift star, there was some play in the shift shaft. Even though centering the hook wasn't perfect, I don't think that's the problem. I opened the case and rechecked the operation of the shift drum and forks without the tranni main and countershafts in place. Even though the parts look good, they do bind some. When I hold the forks up a little, the binding goes away. With the two shafts in place, they need to be turning to get through the gears and can be difficult to get into some gears (gotta play with the gears a little and it looks like the mesh needs to line up) but the shafts turn smoothly. I'm not sure what's normal and what's not. Any advice would be a huge help. Thanks! George Edited October 16, 2008 by muggzy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lt1bird Posted October 16, 2008 Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 I have yet to get to my tranny and pla with it yet....If you pull the tranny out I think two of the forks are the same....They should not bind in any way.....Try swaping the two similar forks for a goof(look at them close)...mark them first....just to see if that helps.... If they slide better you might want to check the rest of the tranny per the manual teardown and inspection...... Wish I had mine together to help you more! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notsed Posted October 16, 2008 Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 its normal for it to be hard to shift when the tranny isnt in motion but the binding on the forks im not to sure of Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jharader Posted October 17, 2008 Report Share Posted October 17, 2008 check your mainshaft and countershaft for any heat discoloration or burrs. I had my cub bike tore down cuz it wouldn't shift out of 2nd. well it turned out there was a heated area on the shaft between gears not allowing it to shift. should be able to shift through all gears rotating the sprocket and shifting it. might also check your bearing on your shift drum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muggzy Posted October 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2008 Thanks to all of you. I'm looking forward to getting into the garage this weekend to try your ideas, I'll let you know what happens. In the meantime, if anyone has anymore, keep 'em coming. The tranni worked fine before I ripped the case down, so I'm assuming that it's something I did. probably subtle (like swapping the two similar forks maybe they've broken in differently) but maybe not. I'll look for heat and wear damage too - considering that the the piston rod needle bearings went on the crank and ultimately destroyed the pistons, maybe there was some associated damage? Before that, shifting was fine except getting it into neutral was a little finicky All of what I've described is on the bench with the case open or top half held together with 3-4 screws as described in the Clymer manual I'm using as my guide. There is a little play in the long part of the shift shaft that goes through the case (I'm planning on replacing it and the seal) and on the the pivot point where the double hook that grabs the shift star is connected. But since I can shift through a few gears and then the shift star locks up, I started questioning everything - including the minor binding of the tranni forks. I just don't have the experience to know what's normal and what's not. Loboboy, said what i suspected (won't shift smooth while open) but I think I should still be able to get through all six gears, like jharader say, shouldn't I? Thanks Again, George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muggzy Posted October 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 Looks like lt1bird had the right idea, I switched the two tranni forks that are the "same" and the shifting was NOTICEABLY better. Still a little sticky at spots but we got all the way up and down all six gears several times. There was some VERY tiny flat spots on the fork,"buttons" that slide in the shift drum groves also, I don't think that they're the problem but I'm just gonna replace all three along with the shift shaft and springs anyway. Thank you all of your help! George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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