Flash and Flare
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Posts posted by Flash and Flare
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Don't mount your grinder/buffer and vise to your bench permanently, thats valuable real estate on your work bench. Mount a 2" receiver under your bench from a truck bumper and then mount your grinder/buffer and your vise on a 2" draw bar. Then when not in use you can remove and slide under your bench so there out of the way.
Check this link out, there are alot of good ideas on this site.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=3
F&F
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Had the stock thumb throttle when I bought my banshee in 98, I took it off and put a Motion Pro twist throttle on and damn near killed myself on some whoops at dyracuse atv park. I now have a 250r thumb throttle and will never ever go back to a twist on a quad.
I think if you are a straight line guy a twist will be fine, but if you like to turn corners or if there is a chance that your banshee might become airborn I would suggest staying with the thumb throttle.
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I have alll kind of leg clearance with the R2s, I also moved my foot pegs back 2inches and down 1 inch.
This makes a huge diff, did the same thing to mine.
This combines with a taller and forward stem, makes a significant improvement is the size of the cockpit.
Yamaha Banshee's ergonomics were designed for a 5ft 7in person.
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Not sure if your considering Fords or not, the old tried and trued 7.3 Navistar engine is a very durable and reliable engine but it's not gonna perform in the 1320 like the newer iron does.
Are you looking for a work horse or a street racer ?
I would stay away from 6.0 unless the seller has receipts for ARP Headstuds, EGR delete and Oil Cooler updates and avoid the 6.4 as well.
I don't know to much personally about the new 6.7 Scorpion diesel but time should tell.
I bought a 01 F250 4x4 CCSB Lariat with a 6speed last fall down in Texas for quite a good price compared to what they are selling for here in Wisconsin.
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NickisGod
I noticed your link in your sig about upgrading brakes, looks like you did the same thing as I did.
Nice write up.
F&F
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Years ago before the birth of all the 450's I swapped a 250r rear dual piston caliper on mine, Was quite easy, just bought a the brake stay for a 250r and then I had to machine the underside(belly) of the caliper for clearance
Also had a custom rotor made by Quicksand Fab................does that company still exsist ? The rotor had stock Banshee inner bolt pattern and a 250r outside OD.
Stock Banshee brakes are barely adequete while stock, let alone when most of us ad 40% more power..
Hope this helps some.
Flash and Flare
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"Twingle" is what you thinking of. Where both pistons are at tdc at the same time. I had one awhile ago, didn't vibrate as bad as u would think but didn't provide the strong low end like I had thought it would.
A 90* firing crank and corresponding ignition. They were suppose to ease 180* firing order where one piston is at tdc while the other is at opposite bdc. They wouldn't vibrate any worse then any other unbalanced crank. But bottom line they never panned out.
Yep, that's what I thinking he was talking about.
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Wasn't this referred to as "twinkling" the crank ?
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LRD adjustables
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For us big boned ppl, you can always opt to get FOX shocks from a older ZR vs the ZL like the OP got. The ZR is gonna be valved heavier and the spring rates are quite a bit stiffer. Might be perfect for a +2 arms set up.
I believe that 1997.5 580zr through 1999 are gonna be very close to the correct length, even if there a little long its very common to throw some slugs in them to shorten them up.
Back in the day when I used to snow cross race I had a spare set of front shocks and I always thought about trying to mount them, but never got around to it. I went the easy/expensive route and bought aftermarket shocks.
Good to see some other ppl thinking outside the box.
F&F
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Here are pics, sorry it took longer than hoped.
Were packing to move in about 15 days and I seem to get side tracked as I am being pulled in 10 diff directions the minute I walk through the door.
Boy does a flash ever bring out every last ounce of dirt and dust.
Hope these help.
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sorry got side tracked last night, damn A.D.D. will post after work
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Can you get me some pics and what your looking to get for them.
I will get some pictures tonight and post them. I misspoke in the original reply to your ad, there not Kenda Klaw XC's there Kenda Klaw XCR's and the size is 20x11x8
F&F
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if it doesnt rev past 7500 its not a tuner
I make max torque at 1900rpm, there is no need to rev past 5500rpm
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Like it says need pics and prices shipped to 10306.
I have a pair of Kenda Klaw XC's that are almost brand new. Dunno on shipping until I would unmount and box up to get accurate weight.
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dont gls' come stock with like 180ish hp and 175ish lbs (less if its the 2.0 N/A)? how did you come up with a mod to add 325 ft lbs of torque and lose 15hp?
loland arent those 1.8T's only supposed to get like 25-30mpg?
It's not N/A its boosted.
Stock boost is 13lbs maybe a bit less, I'm running mine around 22-23lbs
Also seems to run the best with the compression up around 19.5:1
Quite a laundry list if mods and add ons.
Its been a great commuter car, probably the best automobile I have ever bought.
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my 03 Bora/Jetta GLS
Never dyno'd but estimated HP/Torque is 165/400lbs and still gets over 50mpg
217,000 miles and counting
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This isn't mine, but stumbled across it today. Looks to have quite a few extras and looks well maintained.
I think its really nice for a 21yr old quad.
The price reflects the extras.
F&F
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Don't spacers help if you have boost ports ?
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I hooked mine up to my cpi inframes. Just cut them from where they meet the pipe and used a 4 inch piece of high heat silicone hose. I throw them on when I Cruz the mtns.
Thx for the reply, was thinking I might be the only one who ever thought of something as asinine as this.
Did you notice any loss in power ?
Did it still sound stock ?
F&F
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More power is always fun, but I say widen it out and do suspension first.
Welcome the the banshee brother hood
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PSI hasn't been located in Wild Rose in a many years, there now located out west, pretty sure is Utah. The PSI pipes I rememeber from years ago looked like they were welded by monkeys or by armless 80yr old blind senior citizens.
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I have LRD adjustable pipes and they do very well, my buddy had T5's his power band was much narrower than mine. He sold this T5's and went to Paul Turner High Rev's and loves them.
The Paul Turners are great because you will burn your legs less if any on them.
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Has anyone fabricated a set of OEM silencers to connect up to a aftermarket pipe ? This is done in the snowmobile world all the time and there even now making kits to dump twin pipes into a stock silencer that was designed only for a single pipe originally.
Reason I ask is because I hope to be soon moving and my new place may have up to 3 acres of "back yard" to ride around on with my kid on her 90cc youth quad. I just don't wanna piss off any of my neighbors.
I am ok with the fact that I might lose a few hp vs running the silencers provided by the aftermarket pipe manufacturer, I got enough hp that I can sacrifice a little. But is there any known issues with heat re-tension or restricted flow ?
I just wanna keep it as quiet as possible.
Any in site appreciated.
WORK BENCH ADVICE
in General Banshee Discussion
Posted
Thanks, but I can't take credit for it. I got the idea from the guys over on "garage journal"
Be wary of going to that site, you will get sucked into reading for HOURS and HOURS, some really great work shops and man caves. I have prob 30 or 40 bookmarked links from that site that I will be revisiting when the time allows some more shop revamping.
F&F