LFRPerformance
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Posts posted by LFRPerformance
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Took 12 weeks to get my YFZ done, this was back before I started porting, I will tell you my banshee cylinders and cases took 12 hours at the bench start to finish, but I had to map all of my port timing, the first set I ever did took me 15 hours lol. Porting is a art and is very meticulous. But our shop has been absolutely swamped since Covid lock down happened and I’m just a small town guy, I can’t imagine how swamped these big shops are.
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So it's slipping with the lock out?
It’s slipping through the whole range, before the lockout comes into play. The clutch never seems to fully engage, bike will barely begin to turn the back wheels and it’s slipping.
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What's your adjustment like on the perch?
Leaving plenty of slop up top,about a half inch of travel before the cable pulls tension, hold slight pressure on the the clutch actuator arm with my finger while adjusting the pancake bearing to just where the arrows line up. I’ve just never seen anyone wear out a clutch the way I have, I did have lots of slipping issues before I put the lockout in though also.
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Awaiting arrival of the new inner hub and pressure plate, with my free time and thinking about this the only things I can see causing this issue is the faces of the two have worn out.
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Brand new clutch kit? And you have 7 frictions and 6 steels? With the pressure plate on, do any of the frictions wiggle? I'm starting to think there is a ridge preventing the pack from compressing all the way.
Leaning towards the same conclusion, that the steeles are getting hung on the inner hub and not compressing the clutch pack fully, I can move the frictions but it does take quite a lot of effort. From all my digging I just seem to believe the clutch pack just isn’t compressing fully, and yes all new fibers and plates 6&7.
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when all assembled do you have play on the actuator arm or is it tight all the way?
There is play until the arm aligns with the case arrows
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The inner hub is trash, but you already knew that. It shouldn't prevent the clutch from engaging though. The pressure plate only seats all the way in every other hole. The pressure plate will sit away from the clutch pack of rotated 60 degrees, then if rotated 60 degrees again will sit flush againt the clutch pack.
I honestly thought the pressure plate wasn’t seated was my issue but I have verified it was correct.
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3 minutes ago, Keno said:
Can you post some pictures of the assembly? Clutch slipping just at high RPM?
Post motor mods, clutch springs, how much weight on the lockup.Clutch is slipping as if it has a burnt clutch, won’t pull itself and acts as if clutch isn’t engaged. No ride on clutch just assembly and test. Seems to me that the clutch pack isn’t holding pressure, when completely assembled I can jack up rear end, put it in gear and roll the tires and watch the pressure plate slip against the fiber. Hub and pressure plate have slight grooving on the face at which the fiber rides against, which leads me to thing the two do not hold enough pressure between the clutch pack.
Stock cyl, Ported, 4 mill, cool head 21cc domes, .041 squish, 35mm carb, on Methanol.
my pictures are too large to add through the website I will try from Tapatalk. -
Replaced the basket and cushions with a Redline Billet, Brand new EBC Plates and Fibers, New HD springs. Running Matoon Lockup & Cover.
I am going to order a new inner hub and pressure plate and thrust washers.
Clutch was together correctly per Yamaha diagrams and manual, plate springs torqued to 7ft lbs, thrust washers in correct place, rod and ball new. Clutch slips no matter how I align the pressure plate or adjust e pancake bearing and cable, am I on the right track? Lol -
On 11/29/2020 at 10:16 PM, n2otoofast4u said:
Pretty sure I have some brand new fibers in my stash of shit. Not sure what a clutch costs these days, but I’d sell it pretty cheap.
Appreciate the offer, but I do have tons of clutch kits in my shop.
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On 11/29/2020 at 1:52 PM, locogato11283 said:
I bet that clutch basket is fucked.. Call Redline. Order billet basket, OEM inner hub and OEM pressure plate and a clutch. Bulletproof setup.
OEM plates and fibers?
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Given how much trouble this set up has given me with smoking clutches and now breaking them I I know I’m going to replace all the clutch components, already went with pancake bearing and what not. I guess it time to bullet proof this clutch assembly lol. Thanks for the input and confirming my suspicions.
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Got a stock cyl 4mil on Alchy, started smoking clutch packs all the time and decided to go to a direct drive lock up with a mattoon cover.
Took it out this weekend to LSOK and made about 3-4 passes before I broke the inner most fiber. Checked all the fibers and steels and threw in a new fiber, went back out and broke the fiber after one pass again, or so it seems haven’t had time to pull it back apart just yet.
I’m beginning to think that the basket mad too much slop between the fingers or the cushions are gone. I’m looking to go to a billet basket, was looking at the Vitos or the Wiseco. Anyone had any issues with those?
Clutch issues continue 🙄
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted
Just to follow up, new inner basket and pressure plate solved the issue. Mine were wore dust to all the other clutch issues I had, they were not allowing the clutch pack to fully compress. Just wanted to leave this here to let anyone who found the thread know.
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