J06CVPI02
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Posts posted by J06CVPI02
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Ok. My porting guy is suggesting I get a entirely new crank and bore over my cylinders again. There already at 65 mm. He Said crank is shot. And he Said that the piston was hitting the dome. I don’t know. Crank looks fine to me.
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With cylinders and pistons off if I rotate the crankShaft via Spinning the flywheel By hand shouldn’t the Crankshaft continue to turn indefinitely? Or should it stop and not spin at one point?
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2 minutes ago, the boris said:
I'm not very experienced but I'm running 21cc domes on standard engine with 4 degrees timing advance and pushing out 135psi of compression.
I was advised by members here to leave it at 4 degrees as it would cause predeto if I go more.
Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk
Ima go down to +3
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I had another question to.
Can I use a .12 base gasket?
or would my squish be to tight?and if I use non stroker domes, do I need a spacer plate? I ask About the non-stroker domes just in case I can’t get My pitted dome fixed or he can’t or doesn’t want to fix it. I have an extra set of domes that ran on pump gas no problem that were off my old set up which was a wisco crank stock rod length.
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9 minutes ago, the boris said:
Also 5 degrees advance with 20cc domes Is pushing it at pump gas.
Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk
So what do you think I should go down to? +4 or +3 degrees?
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10 minutes ago, the boris said:
Maybe too much compression caused detonation. What was your compression?
Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk
I don’t know what my compression was because I never checked it. Ugh 😑
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I have a 2001 banshee
hot rods 4 mil stroker with 5 mm longer rod. fmf fattys and silencers. Nos racing cool Style head
vfroce 3 reeds
stock ported cylinders 65 mm bore Wisco 295 long rod series pistons.
(just a clean up job on the intake and exhaust ports. And the same on the cross ports. Like a stage one.)
my domes are 4 mil cut 20cc
stock carbs
+5 degrees timing
jetting is as follows
mains 340
pilots 25 (2 turns out)
needle 2nd from top.
im using castor 927 two stroke oil at a 32:1 ratio with 93 pump and c16 vp race fuel which is 107 octane 50/50 (So if I use 2.5 gallons 93 I use 2.5 gallons vp)
Riding in temps between 70 and 90 degrees at sea level.
I noticed my bike was running hot. too hot the last few weeks.
slowly (very slowly) Lost coolant from the Overflow reservoir. Over a period of about 3/4 weeks it went from the full line to dry.
2 days ago, (Sunday) I was out riding and at wot I got bog and suddenly engine didn’t wanna stay running. Noticed coolant seeping through the left stud on the cool head. I wasn’t using acorn nuts and Crush washers. I was using flange nuts.
Took the head off and the left piston is destroyed and wet with coolant.. so is the dome. It’s pitted. Right Piston was fine and so is the dome. but the wrist pins are locked into both pistons. Having a difficult time getting em out I’m assuming from the heat.
what do you guys suggest I do when I put this back together? Lower my timing?
Use a different size base gasket? (For squish reasons)Etc
I ordered new pistons
and I’m gonna attempt to have my dome repaired.
my cylinders walls are smoother than a baby’s behind. So I lucked out There.
What do you guys suggest I do To make sure this doesn’t blow up again?
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So this past weekend I was out in the trails, and while riding out of no where my banshee bogged bad and began to smoke heavy out of the right side slip on Also out of the front where the pipe goes in to the motor. So I rode it back to the garage nice and easy at low rpms. When got back, the coolant was boiling in the radiator. It looked like it was wet on the right side of the head and jug. And there appeared to be oil in the slip on dripping out of it.
so fast forward a few days
just earlier tonight I went down to the garage
pulled the plugs
they were both wet
right side was all black
left was Almost the same just a bit lighter than the right but was still also wet.
so I pulled the carbs cleaned me em up with carb cleaner and such.
Put everything back together she fires right up but still smokes like crazy. it doesn’t even smell like it’s burning two stroke oil like it should as it’s not blue. smells like, I don’t know, maybe chalky is the best way I can explain it. it’s white/light gray.i take it out and there’s no like power I goto try to go wot and it there like nothing. it wants to bog
It was late, dark out, and I could only hit the road real quick and it was wet so I didn’t really wanna lay on it
so I’m thinking could it just be like It needs new plugs and be ripped and cleared out? Or something worse like head gasket/crank seal?
Mind you before this all happened. On Saturday the day before this happened my plug on my crank case where you add gear oil flew off. I Limped it back. Careful to not get sand in there. haven’t drained the fluid yet. Just found another plug and topped her off and sent it the next day anyway.
also the motor started whistling up near top end a few weeks ago after Multiple mis-shifts and accidental over revs the last few months..
Any suggestions or what you guys think may be wrong would be great. because I want to figure this out and get this thing fixed ASAP
I’m not sure what kind of bottom or top it has in it because when I bought it the guy just told me that It was a fresh build. It doesn’t have a stock head on it. It does have the vforce three reads. Stock carbs. K/n pods with outawears. Fmf fatty gold series and fmf slip one. The bike was dialed in by the guy who did the build back 2 years ago when I bought it. Main jet is a 320. The needle jet is longer than the stock needle. The clip was originally on the fourth position I put it to the third. And I just dropped the main jet down to A 310 earlier tonight For the warmer weather.
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This is what I was thinking of
but I want your guy’s opinions
also if I do go with them^
how would I jet them? For if my stock carbs mains aRe at 320, would it be different on these carbs in the link above?
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I have a what I believe is pretty much a stock 2001 banshee with the exception of a few things. The things that I know of are stock carbs into 2 open k&n air filter pods with outterwears. Vforce 3 reeds. Full fmf exhaust system.
now here’s my carb quEstion.
First just a side note, quad as of now seems to be dialed in. because when I pop my plugs out to replace em. they are always like that chocolate brown color (light brown)
not black, not white, no odd marks are spots.. and it’s evenly distributed all over the white part of the plug.
recently I’ve been thinking about doing a carb upgrade. I was thinking Keihin 34 mm air strykers.
right now the main jet is 320 And pilots are 27.5
the needle clip is in 4th spot
what do you guys suggest For carbs now that will still give me more power With my set up as it stands now without any additional mods but at the same time which I will benefit with if I plan on doing a stroker kit in the future as well as upgrading reeds To V4s and changing fmf to Toomey?
I’m in New Jersey so it ran fine during the winter.
during the summer it bogs at WOT and will stop building RPMS at a certain point in like 80 degrees weather. It’s April now so I decided to tear the stock carbs down and do A rebuild. should I move up or down on my main for the summer as per the information I gave you guys above?
I have a question about my porting
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted
If I post pics up on here of my ported stock cylinders
can you guys give me an idea of how I should setup my build? like what thickness spacer plate to use and what domes etc? Because I already blew my shi* up once (crank bearing seized) and I’m not trying it do it again. (Quad was running way to hot)