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13B-RX3

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Posts posted by 13B-RX3

  1. If the soot ring isn’t growing I would guess it is lean in the mid range color wise I like the 162 plugs any chance you can lift the needle 1 notch (lower the clip) with the 162  then do a 20 min ride no more than 1/2 throttle. Please post pick of 20 min plug whole then chopped only need to chop 1 plug for this test. Do you have a laser thermometer after your run take a temp of the cylinders and one of the pipe on each side about 3 inches off the jug. Thanks
    Ok, finally got to spend some time with the bike today. Did plug chops with 152 and 148, wanted to get everyone's opinion.

    Also did a 30 min ride with a brand new plug, no more than half throttle. Left cylinder head temp was 211 at the outside of the head, right was 210. Pipe temp 3" from the cylinder was 266 left, 264 right.

    Thanks in advance everyone!1196843c4f7f9fe8c795efe9c4954687.jpgfe0dd92fd3d71ceb5f733e4c6d69e45f.jpgfe4d863af16f06a7e3a03407a093d9f2.jpgdeeaf86ce7aec3ce0da372e72ead3c05.jpg4972b86ce49b801abc2e5bd8ec9f3d3d.jpg1d68ad9f71e29f048a5d9ce0817f5e67.jpg5b8546065f1387eb794e364930ee070b.jpgc0a2e4f3ed272e63625fec52429a4e2e.jpgdb6ec5f7505f3b9371f6b6986bde56d9.jpg

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  2. Ok, finally have some answers instead of questions. Did multiple plug chops today from 148-162. Not much difference in the width of the smoke ring. In the last pull a happened to look down and the fuel line was completely empty . Like like I'm in the market for a pingle valve. At least I'm making progress.

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  3. Got the 28s put on yesterday. Started with a 50 pilot and 162 main. What a difference! Everywhere from idle to 3/4 throttle is 100% better! 162 was too big so I dropped down to a 155. Much better, but it was still seemed a little rich. Here's the part that I can't figure out though. I was running a Y boot. It's a little rubber boot that they ran on the rd350. Goes to a single uni filter. After I put the 155mj in and rode it for a bit, then put a pair of uni pod filters on it. Immediately after rode it again, and now it's pig rich, won't rev past 6k and leaves a huge cloud. If anything I thought the pods would lean it out. I'm trying to make sure I didn't miss anything before I just start downjeting. I read through the jetting sticky and it seems like everyone is running 155-165. I know it's not an apples to apples comparison but I'm trying to be cautious. Any theories?

     

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  4. Those carbs are junk, and your problem ain't goin away till they do. 
    I don't know what kind of a curse you put on me, but it worked . Long story short, the slide broke and hung WOT! I'm looking at authentic pwk 28s, trying to find the best price. I wish they made a 30mm. To go to a 33 I have to change the boots and filters, I don't know if it needs that much carb though. Any thoughts, opinions, or input? Thanks in advance!3ea30a4a8c88c767fc707682bb2b1313.jpg

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  5. No playing today. Got to the end of the driveway and she died. The battery was down to 8V. Found that the rectifier shit the bed. No suprise with 43 year old solid state components. Luckily the rest of the bike is in better shape! I can't trust any of the readings from yesterday so I'll have to see what the plugs look like after I get it charging again. I'll update everyone seen she's going again.026eb434cb0232ea8bb75dd671813893.jpg

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  6. 22 minutes ago, Stingray said:

    If the soot ring isn’t growing I would guess it is lean in the mid range color wise I like the 162 plugs any chance you can lift the needle 1 notch (lower the clip) with the 162  then do a 20 min ride no more than 1/2 throttle. Please post pick of 20 min plug whole then chopped only need to chop 1 plug for this test. Do you have a laser thermometer after your run take a temp of the cylinders and one of the pipe on each side about 3 inches off the jug. Thanks

    I can def do that!

     

    Each line on the ruler is .5mm

  7. I use a digital caliper for measuring, harbor freight one will do. Until you main is correct make sure your needle is in the middle it is the last circuit you tune.

    My Procedure is to set idol Circuit first making sure that it is not too fat or too lean in the bottom and second I just the top end because the mid range is a combination of the idle circuit in the top and circuit

    Does your carburetor have a power jet on it on the top on the back? They usually have a hose going from the bowl to that jet.

    028D864B-8EAF-4C49-9A76-BF9003A2191B.jpeg.62edc56a707516d6f611d1d39fd22f84.jpeg

    Thank you so much for the reply! I have a 10X inspection magnifier with a measuring scale. From 160-172, I'm measuring 1.5mm, the only change being the color. I'm fairly certain the needle is correct and I know the pilot circuit is. I set them in the order you mentioned, the only thing I can think of that caused it to lean from where I had set it originally is that I replaced the reeds with a thinner (less stiff) reed. Maybe that's what caused it. It is a the slides are definitely opening all the way. It is a PV carb but I've done chops with it plugged and operational and don't really notice any difference in the plugs. With plugs that have been in the bike for more than 12 seconds I do see the cad plating burned off about 2-3 threads down and the timing definitely is conservative, I didn't want to push my luck until I was positive I had enough fuel. The ring on the electrode is maybe .007-.010. I was under the impression that timing doesn't drastically effect AFR, I was planning on getting the fuel sorted then setting the timing on a load bearing Dyno. The timing now is basically a banshee curve +3 degrees. The engine is fairly low compression so I'm sure I can get away with much more, but that'll have to wait till I strap it on the Dyno. My thinking on the width of the band is that being an air cooled motor, the plugs are going to run hotter than in a water cooled. That being said the area of the plug that will be at self cleaning temp will be wider, leaving a narrower band.I think 160 main is about the limit of what the engine can burn, anything beyond that and I start getting black bands in the smoke ring. I may be way off though, is just a theory. I thought turbo rotaries were finicky, they don't have shit on 2 strokes! Thanks again, I look forward to your reply!

     

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  8. I'd think it'd be worse in a rd than a quad, running bowls dry !  i'd be careful, and / or  some were drilling out inlet ( dont think that could be more restrictive than @ needle) but...
    I ran across a thread that have all the dimensions of the keihin and they are the same on these carbs. Needle passage, holes under needles, etc. I guess they are slowly making "improvements". I honestly don't think it's running out of fuel. I get the same results weather it's a 1-3 chop, or on the shift light in 6th. It never falls on its face like it's ruining out of fuel, it just keeps going till you let off or hit the rev limiter. Had y'all not known what the plugs came out of, what's your opinion of the last plugs I posted (168/172)?

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  9. I'm out of ideas. Went ahead and rejetted. The smoke ring isn't getting any wider, only darker. I exhausted everyone's supply of br8es so the last chop was done with 9s. It gets more and more sluggish with each jet change, with the current jetting I can't go full throttle off the pipe, it just loads up and misfires. Any suggestions, I'm out of ideas.b5eaedcb23b87b173b731df2a3d152a3.jpg

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  10. Did a primary leakdown and everything looks good. The right cylinder consistently reads leaner than the left, I guess I'll run a little larger jet on the right, I don't know if that's common or not, but with these knockoff carbs it doesn't suprise me. After laying all the plugs side by side, it does appear that is getting richer with each jet change. It's hard to measure but I'm guessing the smoke ring is between 1mm-1.5mm, but I'd love a second opinion on weather or not I should keep fattening it up. Thanks in advance.b310bb9312c69b123f30a1d2d861b289.jpg

     

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