rkooienga
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Posts posted by rkooienga
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I have a 2003 Blaster and I screwed up the housing and was wondering if a banshee housing fits on the blaster and what fabricating i would have to do. I know the axels are the same size but i Believe the rear brakes would need to be fabed to fit onto the banshee rear bearing carrier
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Okay I will I put the clip as high as it will go and it helped. But I need jetsfast anyone who has fast shipping on a 410 or 420 main jet?
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1 hour ago, the boris said:
Did you check your wiring, tested it with multimeter?
Checked for air leaks, ripped apart whole carburettor and cleaned it, rebuilt it, made sure reed valve is good?
Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk
Reeds are solid. No air leaks I will be taking carb apart tonight. How do I test the wiring I have a nice mulit meter but I have never tested wiring before
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My 2001 Rm125 is having issues and I don't know what to do. It was slipping in and out of the powerband before I rebuilt it. So I rebuilt it with all New OEM stuff. Put a new govenor in it and still has the same issue but worse. Now right when it's suppose to get into the powerband it just kinda is stuck right before it. My clutch was creeping a little when in gear but not much. And after the rebuild my bike is running alot richer as far as how much smoke is coming out of the pipe. I really don't want to dump much more money into this thing. But I have a clutch kit coming. Could this all be a wiring issue or something?
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Start by draining your oil. Check your coolant. Is it milky or grey. Sounds like your head gasket because eyou have a lack of power and your coolant boiled and cylinders were wet.
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I had the same problem with mine it's not flooded and it's not a spark issue is it? Been a minute since I had a banshee because mine was stilen. But forgive me if I'm wrong but Switch plug wires to make sure both wires fire. Then you have one of you carb slides in correctly and one in backwards. I did the same thing with my banshee when I rebuilt it. If you have the slides in backwards it wont start at all and with one in backwards the exhaust with be slightly warm and slightly blue due to only one cylinder firing. Check that next and let us know what happens. Also 105 is low my banshee blew up at 102 psi for compression. I bought mine with about 105 took it for one ride and snap one of the Piston rings on one cylinder.
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Okay sounds good I have a tester coming in the mail later this week. I know for sure the quad has been sitting for about four years do you think the seal by the stator is cracked from being dry and cold for a long time?
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I know this is the banshee forum but I need help and you guys know alot.
Setup Currently
Main 280
Pilot 32.5
Air screw 1 turn out
Pilot air screw stock
Mods currently
Fmf Turbine core silencer
Fmf gold series fatty expansion chamber
Uni foam Air filter.
65.94mm Piston bored and honed to match.
I need to know what to adjust. It idles high and it doesn't rev down smoothly.
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I was running the old piston and if it was within spec for the wall to piston clearance then im going to run it agian. The piston is a forged 55.5mm piston and its at like 55.36-55.4 range. so I just want to know what a forged piston usually runs for cylinder wall to piston clearance
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I am throwing in some forged pistons into My 2001 Rm 125 and I wasnt sure what cylinder wall to piston clearance should be at max. What is the min-max clearance?
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I agree with Keno, sounds like a carb issue. Also do an actuall compression test with a quality gauge. Also it might be an air leak, but best guess is carb. I had the same issue but mine was the left cylinder and the carbs werent sank, now it runs great though.
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What good would deleting the expansion tank do??
I have it all back together and the whole project is about 90 percent done if anyone wants pictures
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On 11/23/2019 at 9:59 PM, HomesteadBanshee said:
move if in gear even if the clutch was pulled in
That specific issue sounds like your clutch is adjusted incorrectly or you need a new cable.
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13 hours ago, HomesteadBanshee said:
Idk It could be it’s leaking air somewhere idk I need to do a leak down test, I really haven’t done one because it kinda runs pretty good and sound good , but I was riding it before acting up.it was running perfect just breaking up for needing to be jetted like the previous owner said.
Doing a leak down test and then a compression test to make sure all is sound before diving into this issue, would be my suggestion and then If all is sound then look to the next issue and take it slowly changing only one variable at a time.
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Now someone Correct me if I am wrong but on my Blaster, the push rod has a specific direction it needs to be put in? One side has a small punch so the ball rest and can move smoothly when the push rod is moving. I have no idea if it was just a fluk with my blaster but I put the rod in backward and the clutch wouldn't move at all.
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The reving high sounds like an air leak, causing it to be lean and reving high on its own. I dont know exatly the situation so its hard to know.
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On 11/23/2019 at 9:43 PM, HomesteadBanshee said:
She was running perfect for 3 hours then all of sudden it started reving to the moon and I pulled in the clutch lever in and it didnt do anything it did not stop the quad just reved up high.
I dont know if anyone asked yet, but did you do a leak down test on this project yet?
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3 minutes ago, the boris said:
To be honest I'm not sure, I'll have to check that too
Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
Never mind. I just liked your comments twice and you went up too 6.
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Just now, Pinkylee said:
Some will say 1psi per min.. But NO good engine builder will allow that.
Well I wouldnt allow that on my freshly rebuilt banshee but if the motor is a little old then I would have no problem letting that pass.
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On 11/20/2019 at 4:01 AM, Pinkylee said:
Maybe pipe connector hoses worn out. Definitely kicker though !!! Also check pipe springs aren't stretched where they attatch to cylinders.
Yeah I have that On my banshee right now. The conection between the expansion chamber and silecer is missing one clamp on mine and if i hold oth of them the rattle stops. Cause there not tight inside there. So the pipes have room to vibrate creating a rattle.
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Just now, Pinkylee said:
Rooienga has got it right except it should be 6 psi for 6 mins. While not loosing more than 1 psi.
Thats what I thought but that sounded to long. But I thought it was exceptable/spec was to lose no more than one psi a minute. Not one psi total.
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Just now, the boris said:
Top hose on the expansion tank?
Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
Yeah the hose that goes to the top of the expansion tank goes to the T of the engine vent hoses correct?
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I think ill leave mine, but thats cause im getting lazy on this project when it comes to the little stuff.
Random question what is the community reputaion and how does it go up?
4 minutes ago, the boris said:But I think that's proper way to do it,cut the harness and unwire it , I heard it's quite simple. I did a lot of reading about it but that was 6-7 years ago when I was planning to do it...long time ago lol
Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
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Just now, Pinkylee said:
He sells leak down kits... Or you can just build your own.
Yeah they told me to look up his videos too. When your doing the test. If the psi doesnt hold pull the vent hoses to the bottom end and put some soapy water over them. There should be no bubbles coming out of them.
Help!!!!! Need bike running tommorrow.
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted · Edited by rkooienga
Not super new to banshees, but also not a pro obviously if I cant get one running.
BTW before i start i just bought this bike and it has the cheasy niche cylinder and pistons. I am swapping it for oem motor parts next week just have to use what I got this weekend.
Mods. Toomey T-5 Exhaust. Cool Heads, Boost Bottle, and Reed spacers. While im trying to get it to run i have airbox off. But i will be running stock airbox with holes in lid minus snorkel.
Carb set-up.
Main 280
Pilot is stock I believe.
Needle clip middle.
It was idling okay. With choke pulled until it was warm then it without it was decent sputtered a couple times.
Now it wont start.
I set float height to .83.
Can I remove the boost bottle and plug the reed cage holes, remove the reed spacers and it might run okay?
The guy I bought from said it was running fine after the rebuild. But i dont think i believe him.
Any and all help would be amazing.