Steven66
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Posts posted by Steven66
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43 minutes ago, Keno said:
As far as I know that doesn't match the naming schemes I'm aware of. Check the images below and see if maybe something was misread. Then cross reference the specs to a normal needle here https://www.jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_carburetor_type/needle_keihin_N427-48.html
I read over those charts the other day and I couldn’t directly match the needle to any others. It follows the same naming as the N68A but it still doesn’t check out using the chart. It’s also a different needle from the factory one for the 97 year model. Honestly it could be a custom needle for all I know.
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Not specifically for a banshee but I figured I’d ask here anyways since banshee guys tend to know answers tuning questions.
I have a PWM 38 4XL from a 1997 YZ250 with a needle that I can’t seem to find any information on. Most likely due to my lack of hands on use of Keihin carbs. The bike has a built engine with an old generation bills pipe that I have no actual paperwork on so the carb may have some wild needle in it that’s not normal for a PWM. The needle code reads N40G from what I can tell. Any info is appreciated.
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Couldn’t find any reference to this place using the search function.
There’s a riding location in Meridian, Mississippi called MOHVP that has 20+ miles of trails, huge sand pit with berms / flat areas / jumps / etc. There’s also a campground which you can stay at over night. It’s open every single day from 6 am to one hour after sun down. They are sanctioned for XC / enduro races so there will be a couple weekends out of the year where they will host races but the park will be open the day after. Membership is $40 per year. You PayPal them, they send you an email with the gate code. Code is changed at the start of every year. More details on the membership and park map are available at: http://www.meridianohvpark.com/
I personally went the first time back in April and had some serious fun. I’m planning on being there this Friday with another banshee brother. There weren’t many people there at the time (of course there was a chance of raid but it passed); however, I have been told that they have had a lot of traffic on days immediately after races. The park is a “swim at your own risk” type park. The major rules are: dont do stupid things, don’t litter, follow the directional trails the right way, etc.
Would be cool to see a couple southern banshee owners turn up there.
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3 minutes ago, Ayesully810 said:
get vitos, the red needles
its the same as toomey
Im assuming they are the same taper as the Toomey's, just with 5 slots instead of 6? And that the red needles on FAST are just rebranded vitos?
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Looking for someone to clear the confusion on aftermarket banshee needles. My current build has stock needles and has a dead spot off idle. I tried various pilot sizes and settings along with needle clip adjustments and main sizes and I still cannot fully solve it. Engine passed leak test so its not a lean condition. I tried a set of Toomey needles out of my buddy's bike and they cleared the issue immediately. Bike pulls hard right off of idle and makes power everywhere in the rpm range. If I have to pay the $50 for the Toomey needles off their site I will, but I'd like an explanation on the difference between all of the companies that make needles for banshees.
1. What are the major differences between them all? (Dynojet, Moose, FMF, Toomey, Vitos, and the ones from FAST) One of the banshee guys local to me told me they are all the same Dynojet-based needle and are just rebranded. This looks like it may be accurate as the Toomey, FMF, and Dynojet needles all look the same with the machine cut tip and 6 clip positions.
2. Due to how expensive needles are, I've considered the needles from FAST but I'm curious if they are the same needle as the toomeys but with one less clip position. Any information on these specifically will be greatly appreciated.
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17 hours ago, Ayesully810 said:
if its really rich and sputtery before it starts to make power lean the needle out a clip see if it helps. if you leak tested it already dont let that worry you
I ended up raising the needle clip position up one to the 3rd slot and it cleaned up a lot of the lack of power but it still has a little hesitation. I’m going to raise it one more position and see what that does. If it still doesn’t feel the way it should, I’m considering pulling the Dynojet needles out of my buddy’s bike to see how they feel. He’s got instant power that rises linearly and pulls all the way until max rpm
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5 minutes ago, Ayesully810 said:
adjust the air fuel screw in/out it will tell you what you need. If it feels like its running rich turn that air fuel screw out another full turn see what happens. Race fuel you will probably be able to jet leaner than pump fuel. If it starts fine right now do a plug chop on the main get that dialed in. those numbers are pretty spot on though my old DL 4 mil with stockers on pump was 350 main 35 or 37.5 pilot vito needle same spot, obviously driveline can direct you as well via email or what ever ur using. Bill scheel helps run that joint too hes on fb
I’ve done a couple runs with the air screw at different spots and the off idle lack of power is still there. Unusual to me since I just checked my buddy’s bike and it’s actually running 30 pilots as well at 1.5 turns and it has a very linear and smooth power curve. I started to think I had a leak somewhere but I’ve already tested all areas and didn’t see any. There’s a gremlin somewhere I know it
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2 hours ago, Ayesully810 said:
hahaha i must just be used to skeeters zingers all the time.
btw steven66 i just listened to the video sounds good! i like he idea of toomey silencers on FMFs. should run really well. you will love it
Preciate it. I am having a low power off idle issue though. Right now with the 30 pilots and 1.5 turns out, it feels like a dog compared to my buddy’s stock port and cylinder build with the exact same exhaust setup. He’s running 27.5’s @ 1.5 turns and 290 mains. When the main starts to work, this 392 is amazing, it’s just the off idle power. It actually feels worse than my old dune port setup with T5’s and the same pilot settings. Any advice?
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Just rebuilt my topend with a driveline 392 kit and wanted opinions on how it sounds initially. Sounds a bit rich at the air screw but other than that, crispy to my ears and it seems to rev out well in neutral. Haven’t ridden it yet so load may change that. Driveline suggested a 320-340 main for my elevation and yearly temp range. They were very specific with the needle clip position so i doubt that needs to be changed. The excessive smoke when revving is just from the assembly oil.
Engine mod list:
Driveline 392 Assassin topend (as cast), FMF Fatty pipes w/ T5 silencers, +4 timing, VF4 reeds, Chariot billet intake, Stock carbs (320 main, 30 pilot, Stock needle at 4th clip), Uni pod filters (one stage), a Noss trixx coolhead w/ 20cc big bore domes, and Sunoco 110 race gas with klotz benol @ 32:1
videos:
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Send your shocks to Jocaga suspension works and he will shorten the shock to work for your arms
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11 hours ago, AKheathen said:
what other mods?
Stock carbs, pod filters, chariot billet intake, driveline 392 assassin cylinders, coolhead w/ 18cc domes, fmf fatty head pipes with toomey silencers. Runs on sunoco 110 leaded race gas with 32:1 klotz super techniplate
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I am ordering a driveline 392 assassin cylinder kit and I’m having to make a decision on what to do with my reeds. I have a set of Vforce 3 reeds and the petals have seen better days. They still “work” but I’m starting to see gaps at the sealing surface and one petal is starting to flake at the corner. Flipping them won’t close the gaps. So my options at the moment are either:
1: Buy replacement petals for $100-120 from what I’ve seen online (they sell them at $50-59 per cage)
2: Sell the VF3’s for around the same price and get VF4’s
3: Sell the VF3’s and get the chariot cages with Boyeson reeds
Chariot advertises that they have a flow advantage over vforce reeds with stock stroke mildly built engines and vforce apparently has the edge with stroker engines. Not sure how much of this is true, I do know that vforce petals last a very long time and I have no experience with the boyeson reeds. The chariot cages come with stage 2 boyeson petals and not their carbon fiber. What do you guys suggest I do?
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Jesus christ, I just asked for a discount code and a this vs that argument pops up. Yes, I know there are better arms. No, I don't care. The shock setup I have is 17.5 eye to eye which fits these arms and will work for what I want it to do. Sure, if I didnt have other hobbies, car expenses, and had an outstanding job and competitively raced my shee for money, then I would consider the more expensive options.
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I read on another post that a user on this forum named Patrick could get you a forum member discount for the long travel arms. Is that still available? Just wanted to check before I ordered them.
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12 hours ago, registered user said:
theres usually some factory jugs on ebay. or check craigslist. the china jugs arent the best qaulity but if your porting them anyways, they would be fine. the main problem i seen with them is the sleeve didnt match well with the casting but if you port them it would all get matched up ,so none of that would be a big deal
Ah, so there’s usually no issues with the metal quality of the sleeve or water jackets?
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Looking to put together a new top end for my bike to hold me out while I piece together my ground-up 4 mil. I currently have a set of big bore drag ported jugs with stock carbs, and T5’s. I’m interested in sending some stock jugs to redline and getting their playport package along with a set of SLP pipes which I will reuse for the 4 mil. Being that I cannot find a good set of virgin cylinders locally, where can I find a genuine set online for a good price? I know a lot of the “genuine top end replacement cylinders” on eBay are Chinese copies and not as good quality so I need help finding which ones are worth using.
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My topend was getting a little worn and since it doesn’t have an ideal port for my riding style (it’s drag ported and I trail / MX) I decided to get a different set of trail/dune ported cylinders. My old topend has a pro design coolhead but I’m debating on getting a driveline head since it’s designed to use the stock length studs which is what the new cylinders have. Are there any cooling differences between the two heads? There’s nothing physically wrong with the coolhead, I figured I could sell the old topend as a complete kit that can be rehoned and reringed and just use the driveline head if it has the same/better cooling capacity.
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Serval is a bit overkill for just occasional riding plus some trails. Stock cylinder 4 mil wouldn’t be super expensive and would fit the bill just fine. Could run stock carbs too. If you want serval-esque port timings and power but at a lower price point, you could try driveline’s 421 LP kit.
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Found this picture of what looks to be some aftermarket chain roller / case saver and it peaked my interest. Couldn’t find anything online so I’m geniuinely interested exactly what it is and who makes it.
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Slightly off topic, who makes that rear axle? Sucker looks stout
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Just now, gusto said:
Couple of guys running 421s with 28s on this forum. I am one of them. Only thing I would add to your set up is a pingle. The shop that built my engine (low port) there is no noticeable difference in max hp. Fuel economy and snap on bottom end is much better. go for it
I had a spare pingle which I threw on the tank. Those 4 mil's drink heavy.
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I checked a couple different combinations in the forum search bar and couldn't find an up-to-date 4 mil w/ small carb threads, much less anything driveline related.
To start, I'm planning an engine build pretty soon using the driveline 4 mil LP kit with SLP pipes. Current riding style is mostly open dirt pits, large trails, with some MX. My current setup is a heavily ported 392 with stock carbs and T5's. It's tuned fairly well but the heavy porting really kills the low end (not ideal for my riding style but it's the only running engine I have atm).
At first I was planning a driveline 4 mil LP w/ SLP's and 35mm PWK's but I'm worried about the larger carb setup reducing the off idle responsiveness and being a handful in trails and Mx having 80+ hp (yea I know, too much HP, booooo). I figured with 28mm PWK's I could reach the 70's with and greatly improve the low-end over a 35mm carb setup but I wanted to get some feedback from guys who have actually tested similar setups. Besides that, any suggestions / changes I should make to my build given my riding style? I'm open to anything.
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On 2/22/2019 at 3:57 PM, locogato11283 said:
Pull a spring a post a picture.
Forgot to update the thread. I pulled the springs and found out the previous owner had installed some super long springs from another bike. They were like a half-inch or so longer than stock springs. They were coil binding when torqued all the way down which was why my clutch kept locking up after torquing to spec. I replaced them with a set of 20% springs and it works great now.
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On 3/1/2019 at 4:01 PM, trickedcarbine said:
What cable is on this thing?
It's the stock cable. Nothing from another quad/company
Information on CAFD swingarm?
in Suspension
Posted
I just bought a -2 swingarm with “CAFD” stickers which, based on what little I could find through google, seems to be the manufacturer of the arm. I could barely find any thorough information about the company other than a few old forum posts from the early 2000’s talking about how they were apparently one of the best at the time. Based on the welds and the gusset work, I can believe it. I was wondering if anyone here had any knowledge on the company. I’m mostly hoping to find the company logo online so I can make some replacement decals but I’d still like to know if they went completely out of business or if they were absorbed by a company that’s still around. Any info is appreciated!
