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Wreckless_Rider

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Posts posted by Wreckless_Rider

  1. On 11/26/2017 at 7:23 PM, Canadianshee said:

    Pretty straight forward. If your a rider 4 strokes are great. If your a driver 2 stroke all the way.

    Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk
     

    Defintely cant argue with that. 2 stroke all the way! Ive owned 450R's and even a 700xx. But i just like a modded Banshee the most. Everyone has there own preferences.

  2. On 11/26/2017 at 3:00 PM, registered user said:

     imo sounds like this dude hasnt a clue and needs some assistance

    AND for the record bub. Pulled head off and obvious compression leak into coolant port was found. On left cylinder. After further inspection, cylinder head itself was flat, except for a small raised portion right between a coolant passage and the combustion chamber. Half ass machine shop in town. SO in other words, if the piston is above all the ports in the cylinder, and the rings are healthy to pass a leakdown test, then the pressure will infact stay held in the cooling system. Bought a cool head. Problem solved

    • Like 1
  3. On 11/26/2017 at 3:00 PM, registered user said:

    the way i understand is there was a leak. he took it apart and copper sprayed a new gasket. now he claims there seemed like pressure in the rad after 3hrs. which makes no sense because the system wouldnt hold pressure for 3hrs if there was a leak back into the cylinder. imo sounds like this dude hasnt a clue and needs some assistance

    If the piston in the cylinder that is leaking pressure into the cooling system is above all of the ports, it will hold its pressure. Dont you think? Only had maybe 5lb pressure in it. Pretty sure it would hold that no problem. Think outside of the box. Dont bash me

  4. Why do you have to be a jackass? . It was 11 oclock in the night and i didnt even mess with it hardly. He insisted it was a needle or main jet issue so i proceeded with what he wanted me to do. And for the record, its got a 30 pilot, and he doesnt want to buy new silencers yet for a bike that doesnt even run right. Compression is 140psi. And some dumbass put boyeson ppwer reeds on the right cylinder and left the left cylinder with the worn iut originals.

  5. Working on a bike for a friend. Athena 392cc big bore kit, stock crank (as far as i know), stock carbs, stock airbox no lid, k&n filter, fmf pipes, gutted t5 silencers (idiot before), elevation 60ft above sea level. Whats a good base to start jetting at? Currently had 320 mains, stock needles (i think) on 4th groove from bottom, (6 total). Unsure of pilots. Runs like poo!! Wouldnt even hit power band. Now have 290 mains, now it will hit power band if i rev it high and stay there, but boggs out and wont idle same as before. Tried needle in all positions, no change. Will maybe sometimes idle but mostly doesnt. Running too rich still!! Wth? Choke problem? Float height is 23mm and needles and seats do not leak. Seems like it gets way to much fuel. And i know 290 mains are lean, even with needles all the way lowered it still acts the same. 

  6. Full engine rebuild, first headgasket leaked water from headbolt #1. Took head off and noticed it was leaking compression into a water jacket and thus pushing water up the nearest head stud and out. Yes it was properly torqued 3 times after build. Now, second vitos headgasket. 2 coats copper spray, correctly torqued twice, let it sit for 3hrs after a short ride. Popped radiator cap and it was pressurized. What the hell? It shouldnt have pressure after 3hrs sitting should it? I didnt even ride it enough to get to full engine temp. Head looked straight on the straight edge. Cylinders and rest of engine are brand new with 1.8hrs ride time.

  7. Everything done to the shee.

     

    98 Shee, lightened frame to 30lbs, 2+1 a arms, lowered 2" in rear, stock bore and stroke, Wiseco Pro-Lite's, trued crankshaft, Dune Ported aftermarket cylinders, stock head, Vforce4 reed cages, 28mm bored stock carbs, K&N style pod filters w/ outerwears, full Pro-Circuit platinum exhaust, adjustable timing plate set to +4, dynatek ignition, stock flywheel, stock gearing, 22" rear tires, jetting 320 mains, would have to look what the pilot is again.

  8. Whats up everybody. Just got my shee put together, everything done is listed in my sig. Running a true stock timing curve with +4 added that i programmed into the dynatek box. So its the same as a stock cdi and +4 at the plate. The bike has arm ripping power once it hits power band and never stops pulling. I love it! But when im riding trails in my 20acres of trees, i always find myself in 1st or in second revvin her up and dumpin the clutch around every turn. Its lacking bottom end. Its my 1st shee, is there something i can add to the build list that will improve its bottom end power but now hurt top much? Or is this just the nature of the beast with dune ported cylinders. 

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