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BBoy69

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Posts posted by BBoy69

  1. I have a scrap motor that my buddy sold to me for 400 bucks has a blowed top end but I’m thinking of building a wild motor out of this. The motor will be on pump gas 93 octane. All engine parts will come from either HJR F.A.S.T or Redline Racine .I am thinking about getting a ported 4 mil serval or a unported 4mil  cheetah cub. I’ve researching the cheetah pv setups seeing that the cheetah pv doesn’t have the light switch that the cubs do and was wondering what advantages would the cheetah pv have over the cheetah cub. I know it’ll be more expensive. And this is mostly for back road ripping or dirt road ripping. 

  2. 5 minutes ago, Pinkylee said:

    emoji106.png.. Glad to hear you got it figured out. Also glad to see you posted fix.. Always good to get answers. In case someone else has similar issue. Now GO RIDE THAT BEAST !!!!

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    If I could post pictures of the reeds I would but they both had gaps where you could see daylight straight through them and from what I’ve recalled  reeds are suppose to be sealed 

  3. 21 minutes ago, Ayesully810 said:

    put that 50 pilot on the wire wheel on a bench grinder and clean it off. as long as the threads are good idc throw it in wont matter as long as the passages are clear..  and btw pwk carbs dont measure the same as far as float height that south texas banshee video is only for stock carbs. its 16 mm but dont bother buying the stupid tool to measure float height.  put gas line on the inlet and blow through it, push the float up till air stops, float should be parallel with gasket surface when it shuts off, boom done.  isnt this a brand new built and first start?? reeds shouldnt be bad. sounds carb related.  btw that 160 will likely be too much main, might need a few sizes smaller, but get your starting issue figured out first

    The reeds are from an older bike but that bike ran fine with them so it could be carb related honestly 

  4. 13 hours ago, Pinkylee said:

    What do you have the air screws set at ? How many turns out ? What is your set up and mods?

    392 driveline assassin cylinder  Vito hemi head 21cc domes v force 4 reeds billet intake 35mm pwk carbs 160 main jet 45 pilot jet needle set at middle clip air screws 1 turn out it had 50 pilot jets in it but they were so rusty and nasty looking that I took them out and just threw the 45’s in cause I had them but even the old guy was saying the pilot was on the rich side I may order some more 50’s

  5. 46 minutes ago, Pinkylee said:

    Did you do a leak down test first ?

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    Yup did a leak down well I didn’t a buddy of mine did who owns several banshees since I don’t own one yet it’s on the way here now may need to do my own though  but even when I asked him he said it sounds like I may have a funky reed on that side because the plug is actually wet with fuel so it may not be getting air 

  6. So I’ve gotten back into banshees as I scored a 1987 from a older guy who blew it up back in the 90’s. I rebuilt it myself took about a week just did the first start today and it was a bitch to start literally about 10 mins worth of kickin’ but it’s only running on the right cylinder. So I did some trial and error figured it may be the plugs so I took the plug still in the left cap from the left cylinder(not running) and put it on the right side and put everything on the right on the left and nothing changed the left cylinder still not running just blowing cold air pipe doesn’t get warm anything when I blimp the throttle a little it putts maybe a little but still nothing could this be a carb issue or is the reeds on the left side bad 

  7. i hear what your saying. however its unlikely the neighborhood machine shop is setup to mess with small plated cylinders, even if he did clean the smeared stuff himself, assuming it wasnt worn to the aluminum.  had it been just a small smear then i would agree to clean it himself but this shouldnt require honing. the plating is typically just a couple thousand thick and best left alone if at all possible. not saying it cant b honed but honing it just for the hek of it seems like a reckless move imo
    langcourt claims 5dy turn around. not sure what milleniums is. 
    cylinders can always b fixed. ya sometime it might not b cost affective if it was catostrophic failure. 
    after seeing the photos i wouldnt bother trying to clean it. doesnt look to be any damage except the plating is smeared beyond belief . if the other cylinder checks out good then he should b fine plating just the one side


    Both cylinders are on there the right cylinder has marks but no grooves


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  8. why does he have to ask anybody. just send them to millenium and they will fix them up like new. theres also other places like langcourt in alabama that likely does as good or better than millenium. one problem i c is the studs look like theyr corroded into the cylinders. becareful u dont bust one off trying to remove it. if u put antiseize or loctite it will keep the corrosion away


    I actually live in Alabama so I’ll check langcourt out


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  9. A Hotrods or Driveline 4mil crank, Serval cylinders, Wiesco pistons, Chariot billet clutch basket, Driveline hd clutch and promod trans will be a solid setup. Porting the serval will make a bigger difference but you can always add that later. The 421 Serval will already be a huge improvement over your current setup. Big bore engines (421 serval included) require a different dome than the small bore you have which is why the discrepancy between 21 and 23-24.
    If it were mine I would ditch the stock carbs and boost bottle as well. 28-35mm PWK on the carbs depending on the type of riding.


    I’ve been looking at some 30mm oko carbs but a few things a come later like different carbs maybe even the fat bastards I may test the fmf pipes and see how they respond just for the hell of it. Has anyone one here put together a serval my only worry is putting the actual cylinders on sense you can’t do them one at a time like the normal oem cylinders


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