grantevans713
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Posts posted by grantevans713
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On 8/5/2022 at 12:56 PM, dano3 said:
extra radiators, more inline coolers, those are all bandaids why not fix the actual cause. What is your static compression? what is the squish reading at on the outer edge and inner edge? Have you tried it at +4 timing? Where exactly is the temp gauge located at and have you verified it reads correctly- ie in boiling water? Have you tried a different radiator cap? the one on my ebay radiator was junk and switching to OEM stopped it from constantly venting. It will continue to spit out antifreeze if you keep adding anti freeze when it is cold as it is normalizing the coolant level for when it is hot.
120psi on both cylinders, you asked for squish clearance so I'll just tell you about my domes.
Bore size 68.5mm (dome larger then the piston to cover variances)
Step .038"
squish band width 9.5mm
squish band angle is 10 degrees ( 1 degree divergent angle)
24cc flat plate.
Cap is solid but I have some others I can try. It only spits when it's overheating, I have been unable to add fluid until I get back to camp, so I've tried not getting it spitting hot. I added the excess coolant to top it off because it runs hot, and of my 3 banshees it's the only one having issues and the others are fine topped off. Temp guage is on hose coming out front of the case to the bottom of the radiator, it is tested and works properly. I have not tried adjusting timing but I left it where the guy who did dynotuning had it.
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On 7/31/2022 at 11:41 PM, diebog said:
Hey on the water pump are you running an oem one or billet aluminum? I replaced mine many many years ago with a billet and from what i remember the billet one did flow more and cool it down slightly as I was having similar issues( but I could be wrong). So I installed a billet impeller and got an oversized rad with engine ice. On my 400 cub I run 18 cc domes and 110 race gas. Have you ever tried 110? In some cases it can make the bike run cooler. What ratio you mixing the gas? I mix mine at 50:1 with Bel Ray H1R (best oil IMHO)
I have the trail tech digital and a manual gauge inline so I can double check, are you 100%sure your gauge is good?. Im not sure a fan will do much as a fan is more for when it’s idling or your going really slow and air flow past the radiator isn’t sufficient enough. But If your cruising at a good speed your bike should be getting enough air. Have you made sure there are no air bubbles in the coolant? Can I assume the radiator is in good working order and not clogged? Do you have an aftermarket grill? I had one on my banshee and it was cutting off allot of flow. If you have one you might one to try it without and see if there is any change.
I’m no expert so just a few things I would check.
I have a billet impeller. I know if I change domes it will open up the squish clearance and lower combustion temps, but I wanted to run pump gas. The mix rate is above and is standard for banshees. The radiator is good, no air bubbles, the guage is right and I know it is overheating because it's spitting out antifreeze. I do have an aftermarket fullbore plastic and custom grill with more space to let air in, as well as an air scoop.
I think what I've decided to do is to run a second radiator under the seat. I can mount it low enough to get air, the extra coolant and space for airflow should cool the temps down. If that doesn't work I'll have to switch to 110 and 20cc domes
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So I checked a few other posts but the recommendations won't quite help my unique situation. So I'll start by listing my bikes build.
It's a 421 with driveline cylinders, 68mm bore, long rod 4mil stroke, 24cc domes running 91pump, mikuni tm38s, shearer small bore in frames, oversized radiator, +6 timing.
I have my jetting spot on, I even just got a dynotune done by Nate at KAN powersports, it's pushing 98hp and 51ft lbs of torque. I did play with the netting a bit after the Dyno, but I've chopped my plugs and it's right where it needs to be, if not a little fat on the mains from trying to keep my temps down.
I have opened my case and checked to make sure my impeller is functioning properly.
I have a MacDaddy inline cooler and tempguage, I am consistently overheating. I can't ride 10minutes WOT in a bowl without getting to 250 and stopping. About 20minites riding around the dunes without going above 3/4 throttle and I'm up to 230.
Im running amsoil dominator, 20oz per 5gallon, 91 pump ethanol free from its own handle so no starter trash gas. I am running engine ice in the oversized radiator.
So I am overheating a lot. Anyone have ideas? I can probably get some new domes for more squish clearance, would probably lower combustion temps. I could run more inline coolers but that seems redundant and like it wouldn't do enough.
Im running an OEM frame, has anyone setup a radiator fan that works somehow? Doesn't seem like much space, maybe smaller ones? Is there anything else someone has done? I really don't want to ditch the pipes and carbs for something else.
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So I've been looking for similar builds but jetting has varies drastically with small changes. I'm planning on the first ride for these bikes to be sea level on the Oregon coast, both motors are fresh builds, new carbs, cranks, cylinders, heads, pistons, domes, etc.
First bike:
Toomy T5s
28pwk
6in K&N pods
4mil crank
66mm bore w/ aggressive trail port
+3 timing
24cc domes
chariot intake with boysean reeds
I threw 160s in this, haven't even broken motor in as I haven't had time. What should I be around? I have 3 bikes I'll be making adjustments to when I get there, not trying to spend a ton of time pulling carbs and jets.
Second bike
4mill crank
68mm bore with dune port
Shearer inframes
T38s
12in k&n pods
+6 timing
24cc domes
chariot intake with boysean reeds
No idea where to start on this bike. Maybe like 350? Both bikes running 91pump gas and chariot heads.
3rd bike just got a refresh on top end, I was riding 290 at 5k elevation so I'm starting at 340. All help is appreciated!
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8 hours ago, 97Screamer said:
Air leak. New pistins, bore and likely crank. Make sure he does a leak down test after the next rebuild. Better yet take it to someone that knows what they're doing.
Sent from my HTC U11 plus using Tapatalk
Passed leakdown, held over 6lbs for 5minutes.
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So I've had a busy winter with work and very few days off. Dropped one of my banshees off at a buddies for an overhaul.
Got a bore done on cylinders, new pistons, carbs rebuilt, new cylinder head, domes, etc.
Well he set it up for a long rod with cut domes because it's a 4mil crank, except it's a short rod 4mil. Today he got it going and took it for a test ride. It died halfway through third. Kicker won't move. How much damage should I expect inside the case? Just a new crank? Pistons probably shot? The case seems fine, he says there was no pop or crunch, it just revved then puttered out. Before he mentioned the kicker not moving, I thought maybe electrical.
Any ideas what may have happened? What damage should I be expecting? How fucked is it?
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I have had a lot of bad luck with motor city. Bought a flywheel listed as "the pictured item" on ebay, even though it had 13 available. Showed up a little rusty with a rattle inside. Started a return, they said they could send me another with no rattle if I was fine with a lot of rust. Got a full refund at least.
I inquired about an expensive used stator they had, asked if it was OEM and it was aftermarket. Used after market at OEM prices... They also sell new aftermarket ones for 1/5th the price. I have seen what I thought was deals on new parts that show up used.
They have tons of stuff that look like deals, but I've never once been happy with a purchase and stopped buying from them.
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File a police report to start. Look for the bike or parts on it for sale used on local craigslist. Watch ebay within 100miles for the parts that were on it.
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Pick up the banshee, it's got $$$ into it and they are only increasing in price.
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On 10/4/2020 at 8:01 PM, 375hp banshees said:
Man this things been sitting 10&1/2 years ...why didn't i think to check the reeds
Thanks!
10½ years I'd clean your carbs while they are off to check the reeds.
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Change your oil every season. Always run premix. Tighten everything up after each trip so it doesn't fall apart. Check your plugs to make sure your jetting is right. Never go fast over a hill if you haven't been on the other side. Wear a helmet.
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If you replaced OEM stators and flywheels, I hope you replaced with more OEM. The cheap stuff could be causing a new problem.
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For every 2k elevation higher, you go down a jet size.
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I have a 397 4mil I run on pump gas with 21cc domes at 1800ft elevation. I have Mikuni t34s and I'm running 280mains, can't remember my pilots.
Not sure if this helps. It would seem like if you're running pump gas your jetting is would change.
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1 hour ago, gusto said:
Borders closed for me boys....
anyway, do you guys change domes? Heard the elevation is high there? How did the bikes run?
Elevation is like 4800 and the big dunes in the back are like 500ft+. When I bought my bikes I considered that I mostly tide the dunes in St.Anthony, I'll go out for a while week every month in the spring/Summer. At home I might locally maybe once or twice a year. Compression drops at higher elevation, so I set my domes up to work with 105 here and 91 out of a pump there. If you're at sea level, your compression could drop 20psi going to 5000ft. Maybe go up a size depending on where you are if you typically run pump gas.
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Your domes will determine the compression, but you need to have the right fuel for the compression. If you're running high compression domes, running the wrong fuel will damage the motor and obviously cause loss of power. He is right that fuel does not determine power, but running better fuel will make you able to run higher compression domes.
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That's a good deal on toomeys. If it already has porting, what was your piston type and size? Top of your piston should have some numbers, 4mils run 795s. A standard bore 4mil would say 795M06400 if a wiseco, you can tell your stroke and bore size by reading those numbers.
If you already have some port work done, and you've picked up toomeys, just get your reeds, carbs, and timing plate. With these things you will be extremely happy with the performance of your bike without breaking the bank. When you start going into 4mil it's usually because you blew up your motor and it was getting rebuilt anyway.
If you want some QOL upgrades, I'd recommend pulling your transmission and sending it out for a ProMod upgrade. There is a lot you can do to your transmission that will make riding the bike much better. I'd get this done before you start replacing other internal parts.
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Race gas definitely means more power, but it is expensive to run. When I go out to the dunes, I run through roughly 10gallons a day, which comes out to $150 daily to run 110. If you don't ride much, or your wallet is fat, then go for it.
You should be fine with the cylinders you have, if you want more power send them out to one of the sponsors of BHQ for a dune/trail port. You said you ordered new pistons, you should read the number on the top of the old pistons to see what size they were, that should have told you the bore size. If they were the 795s for a 4mil and it truly was standard bore, they should have read as 795M06400. The last 4 denote the bore size, 64.00mm is standard. If you are putting in new pistons, I'd recommend just getting a bore done when you send the cylinders out for porting. This way you can get the pistons matched for your setup. Go to like a 64.50.
When I bought my trail bike it was already at 65.5. this means it had a bore done several times, which was expected from a 30+chest old bike. You should make sure of your bore size by checking the old pistons out, as people do this usually when they purchase the bike and most banshees are now old enough to buy alcohol.
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You seem to be getting ahead of yourself planning years in advance. I don't understand why you just don't get everything at once and be really happy with it instead of constantly working on it. There are tons of deals on 4mils out there prebuilt, you could find one or just build yours up now. Prices on parts are only going up as less and less people make them and quality is harder to find. Go ahead and build or buy the bike you want.
As a side note, you mentioned getting shearers, these are a top end pipe. If you're riding trails and the occasional dunes some T5s would probably work out better for you imo, they are the best mid range pipe, but you already have FMF which aren't horrible at all.
Honestly after reading all this it looks like you want a lot more power in your bike than trails need. If you were duning a lot or racing, it would make more sense to do a 4mil.
Personally if I were you, the most economical thing to do would be to send your cylinders and crank out. Get the cylinders trail/dune ported. Get the crank pinned and welded. Get some Mikuni r34 carbs, chariot billet reeds, Coolheads and some 23cc domes. This should push you to 60-65hp and be more power than you'll need in any trail.
The first mods you do on a bike are pipe, carbs, reeds. After that if you want more then porting and a cylinder head with some smaller domes. At that point your bike will make more than enough power.
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A 392 is a stock stroke with 68mm bore, to get the most out of it you would want to go for a 4mil and make it a 421.
Going that far with the bike can be more expensive, so my recommendation would be to start with the basics.
Get an adjustable timing plate, some aftermarket pipes, chariot reeds, and some 34mm carbs. These mods alone will add a ton of power and throttle response to your bike. You will need all of these things if you decide to go to a 392 or 421, so might as well start there. You can also get a lot more power out of your bike by getting port work on your cylinders.
If you have these things and later on want even more, go for the full 421 setup. I say to do crank/cylinders at the same time because it's not that much more of a stretch to pull the crank once motor is out and cylinders are off. If you start with just the 68mm bore and later decide to do the 4mil as well, then you will need to change from 513 pistons to 795, get cut domes instead of standard, and also need to either change your head or get a spacer plate.
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File size is to large, I think it's a sign I shouldn't be posting pics of her. Even clothed 😅
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A $3 woodruff key? Pretty sure I value my girls tiddies higher than that.
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Driveline Performance
2978 Allen rd
Ortonville,MI 48462
Business hours are Monday-Friday 10:00am to 5:00pm
248-793-3535-
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I woudlnt mind picking up a hat, beanie, and hoodie. Says you can not receive messages, let me know whats up
Lectrons tuning
in Jetting & Exhaust Forum
Posted
Recently put 38mm lectrons on my 421 with assassin cylinders. Took the bike out to the dunes, put fresh plugs in it and went to ride to get a feel for where it was. It seemed to be running good, no hanging on idle, snappy response, decent sound. I was headed back to check plugs after about 5mins of riding and bike died. Something fucked up and cylinders fucked on one side.
What are y'all running your lectrons at? They sent me 4-2 metering rods, but their tuning website says up to 330cc with it. Should I grab like a 6-3 metering rod or just adjust the one they sent? I didn't get a chance to really inspect plugs, the one side had the dreaded concrete color. Can't tune with the engine out and cylinders shipped off for a resleave, just trying to get everything together so I can ride and time when it's back together.