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dano3

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Posts posted by dano3

  1. haha ok was just curious as last post you said lonestar DC pro is the only way to go but a few posts back fireball was on your list too. Is there a benefit to going the fireball route to utilize the longer shock length and getting/providing all the measurements to the shock builder as you detailed in this thread or is the geometry on the lonestar arms really superior? My application is for a fulltime duner bike mainly riding the trails. Have a set of stage 3s that Ben Martins redid for me which made a huge difference but i wanna eventually get into a higher end setup to ditch my alba LT arms. 

  2. 12 hours ago, hoppedupandcutdown said:

    My crew will be down that weekend too. All the damage from the last encounter with Dano has bee repaired. (not that it was his fault, mind you) LOL

    Ah man that was the worse, glad everything is back up and running. Will see you guys there !

     

    2 hours ago, locogato11283 said:


    The Ramsey’s still making everyone mad?

    Im not sure what the story is, heard that through some of my buddies that hit that ride every year. 

  3. I have looped it a few times at LSOK but i blame DDQ for making me take shotskis at 8AM. I have been wanting to try a +2 but we run trails, tree shots, and general duning 90% of the time so not sure if its worth it. 

  4. 16 minutes ago, murder_banshee said:

    Awesome that’s what I was hoping to hear. What wheels and tires are you running? (Size, number of paddles, etc.) Gonna run haulers but wanted a good idea of how many paddles and what size would be best

    I have ran play cut padla brats and just switched to 9 paddle 70RO 21x12x8 haulers last year, John at sandtoyz unlimited was pushing me to do an 8 paddle hauler saying the 9 was too much for this setup on a stock length swinger and that may be the case for drag racing as i have to pedal it a lot to get off the line but everything else i like it. I did drop back down to a 14T sprocket (was at 15T) with the haulers.

  5. still have the OEM kill switch? I know you tested it but i had issues with the pinfit in that connector and would cause a no spark when hot, i could wiggle and tug that connector and it would fire up. Also since you were messing with the carbs both times, I would wiggle the stator harness and make sure that tests good and has consistent readings while doing so. Are you sure the STB banshee is for correct year and CDI/stator combo? 

  6. extra radiators, more inline coolers, those are all bandaids why not fix the actual cause. What is your static compression? what is the squish reading at on the outer edge and inner edge? Have you tried it at +4 timing? Where exactly is the temp gauge located at and have you verified it reads correctly- ie in boiling water? Have you tried a different radiator cap? the one on my ebay radiator was junk and switching to OEM stopped it from constantly venting. It will continue to spit out antifreeze if you keep adding anti freeze when it is cold as it is normalizing the coolant level for when it is hot. 

  7. I agree with DDQ, that is what i was getting at. I dont have much interest in a lighter stock geometry/ replacement frame but one with improved geometry and modern technology is appealing for my purpose (duner/trail bike). The frame on my bike is basically the last thing untouched other than removing the unneeded brackets. Eventually will get some JDS footpeg bungs, gusset kit, and fresh powder. All the frames with improved geometry seem unobtanium these days so might be a good slice of the market interested. 

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