[Brakes, clutch & Wiring harness routes.]

My banshee was taken apart to be resprayed, it's coming together nicely right now and it's near completion. The only trouble I'm having is the cable routes, the wiring harness runs from the back up the inside of the frame and under the fuel tank. The only problem is that there are certain plugs like the kill switch connector that barely reaches the wiring harness. When I turn the steering the kill switch stretches, so obviously the routing Isn't right. I was wondering if anyone could tell me the routing for the harness and the break cables ect. Did you run the breaks down the center of the tank, does it cross in front of the steering rack or underneath it? Any help would be great.

[Banshee clutch problems.]

Not being a cunt... If you don't know what you're doing you will end up chasing your tail buying un-needed parts and wasting your own time... So take your dumbass with your piece of shit quad to your reputable mech and let him do it for you while you continue to do some research here hopefully finding some clues along the way

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And that right there, is why you're being a cunt.

[Banshee clutch problems.]

Yea he obviously doesn't know what he's doing.... And has a reputable mech... Instead of all of us giving him shit and risking him fucking it up worse he should probably go to his mechanic, the rod and ball are welded the cases will have to be split

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You're right, I don't know what i'm doing. That's why i'm here. This is my first ATV I've ever owned and I've had it for less than 5 months (4 months of which has been spent with the ATV at the mechanics workshop) Splitting the cases is a little intimidating if you're not fully aware of everything that goes together. Which is why I asked if it was an easy fix, or if I should just send it to the mechanic (who is actually very fairly priced, he replaced the stator and completely redone the wiring loom for less than £100)

What everyone else is doing is at least being somewhat helpful, what you are doing, is being somewhat of a cunt.

[Banshee clutch problems.]

I re-read your 1st post. It's probably welded. Your 2nd post didn't address my questions, so your mechanic should address the problem.

I have a Haynes manual (Covers the banshee, warrior & raptor), not a Clymers manual. I don't know if they're pretty much the same, but it's something. I have lots of tools, however one I don't have is a Clutch grab tool or a tool for the flywheel. Other than that, I have everything I'd need.

[Banshee clutch problems.]

I bet the nut fell off the adjuster.

 

I also bet your "mechanic" don't know Banshees

My mechanic has nothing but Banshees, Blasters & 2-Stroke dirt bikes in his yard. He's a reputable guy.

[Banshee clutch problems.]

6 Weeks ago my banshee developed a clutch problem. I rode down the road and when I released the clutch handle the clutch arm jammed and the clutch cable came loose. We knocked the clutch arm back, put the cable back in place, tightened and we were able able to push the clutch arm fully back and forth with our finger alone, so it worked again.

Now we've got it back and after changing gears for the first time, it did the same thing. Pulled in the clutch handle, release and it didn't spring back. Because the clutch arm jammed shut and the cable had come loose and was pulling freely. We tried the same thing but only managed to free it a little, the clutch arm does not go far enough forward to actually engage the clutch.

I'd like to know if there's anything if I can do to help the situation that doesnt require a lot of stripping. I'd like to refrain from sending it to the Yamaha mechanic for the 3rd time in 5 months, but if it involves taking the engine out, stripping the clutch and removing the carbs just to take out the clutch linkage, then i'll just send it to the mechanic once again because I really don't know what to look for.

 

Here is a video showing the problem: