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rzresurrection

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Posts posted by rzresurrection

  1. why is it everyone proclaims how they know their way around these engines but then go and pump up the crankcase to find a cooling system problem

     

    6psi most likely wont be enough to detect a leak in the cooling section, thats if you werent too stupid to leave the piston above the ports, like i said before. if there is some kind of leak then chances are you wont know if its in the head, crank seals, reed area or mating surfaces of the crankcase.

     

    by pressuring the system at the radiator youve isolated the test to only the cooling system, as thats where your trying to test for leaks. FFS

     

    pump it to 15psi and wait a minute or so. if theres no drop your good. if it drops youll either see evidence on the exterior somewhere, otherwise it will be on the interior which meens the inner oring. pull the head and replace orings. DONE

     

    this is just common sense shit a kid could understand

    Holy crap. Who ever talked about pumping up the case to find a COOLANT leak? Read the post first instead of going off half cocked about what you THINK you read.

     

    Let me say it again incase you you mis read this one more time. Do an effin leakdown test after you do anything - to verify there is not an air leak anywhere. THIS IS NOT TO CHECK THE COOLANT SYSTEM fora leak.

     

    FFS

  2. What causes it to pressurizes the coolant system?

     

    So if the orings became bad somehow over the years that can cause it to overheat?

     

    I'll have to get a leak down test than. Can I just spray starter fluid around it to see if it revs?

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Starter fluid - not recommended. You need a proper leakdown test. Not super hard to build.

    You can build a cheap leakdown tester. Here is a pic of mine. If you're serious about 2 strokes a leakdown tester is a must.

     

    e764f46093bebebab6b8b32283235a11.jpg

     

    8ff5321d2bd4b4d29b7f6afbdca1fbea.jpg

     

    Easy and cheap to make.

     

    Pull the engine and remove the flywheel. Plug all the entry and exit ways for the engine. White parts go into the intake boots, rubbers and plates cover the exhaust ports. Pump air into the schrader valve (6psi Max) and spray soapy water around the sealing surfaces. If you have leaks, you will have bubbles.

     

    That's the short version

  3. Most likely a head oring issue causing your cooling leak Question is why did the oring fail?

     

    You can change the orings out, but do a leakdown test afterwards to make sure that you didn't develop an air leak somewhere that caused the engine to run hot, overheat and kill the orings on the head.

  4. If you've ruled out the cooling system (impeller, plugged rad, low coolant etc). Then it has to be excessive heat generation. Excessive heat from a lean condition - air leak somewhere. I'd leak test it before you pull the head. You need the head on to leak test it anyways, so leave it on and pressurize it. My guess is that it won't be the head. Typically you'd get coolant out the overflow if it was.

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