Rigid_Banshee
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Posts posted by Rigid_Banshee
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Heli coil worked perfectly thx 375 !
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So the hole that the essentric screw threads into has quiet abit of play, upon closer inspection it seems that the threads were stripped out. Was wondering if I could put a timesert or something in there for a repair
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Last time I did something like this I threw some premix in the bottom end, sloshed it around and dumped it in a 5 gallon pale 7 or 10 times. I could see all the dirt come out and settle in the bottom of the pale. Turn the crank and see if there’s any little specs holding on to the webs, Worked fine for me.
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All of the PWK carbs will jet similarly.
For that elevation and temp, I would start with 165 main and 50 pilot.. Then work from there.
I've had everything from 33 to 41 PWK and they all jet similarly on a wide range of motors.
Prefect ! Got 155 mains and a 50 pilots and seemed to get me really close thanks loco ! -
Thank you very much guys ! Same I’ve never messed around with the 28mm pwk’s.
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Can’t quite get a whole lotta jetting info on these carbs, just looking for a ballpark to get me started.
V force4 reeds, Pro Circuit pipes, stock head, stock bore, elevation is 1100ft ASL ambient temp the bike would be run in is 10 to 30 degrees Celsius
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From personal experience dealing with these cylinders and the pistons that come with them, I wouldn’t put that top end together. When I measured the wall clearance it was almost .002 over the 0.0024 spec listed in my Clymers manual. If I recall the side clearance for the rings was also off.
I ended up fitting Namura pistons to the cylinders and the thing still runs to this day.
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On stock cylinders with bigger sleeves apparently.
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Building a 497 long rod 18cc domes 35 pwks, doesn’t have a clue what he wants to run for mods, timing or pipes yet.
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Ok, thanks sleeper I was thinking the TIG welds they put on might need some attention, good quality bearings aswell, For the money he’s spending I don’t see why not go to a sponsor and go hot rods but that’s his choice. Any thoughts on the rods they come with ?
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Friend of mine was looking at this crank on ebay. Wondering if any of you guys ever had luck running them. Effective and reliable? Or cheap chinese junk? Every ones opinion is welcome.
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The Niche cylinders are ok to do stock setups imo. Never seen someone put them on a 4 mil but they might just work in the right hands.
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4 minutes ago, Banshee2105 said:
Would it be a good idea to clean them up and polish them a bit with a Dremel?
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Do not even attempt to attack those with a dremmel you’ll do more damage than good, I personally would check those cylinders out for burs and other casting defects take pics, those ports are calculated angles which require special equipment and the skill to use it to make repairs viable.
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5 minutes ago, Banshee2105 said:
They're new. Pretty sure they're Chinese as those cylinders and pistons came in a box together. And the pistons are cast. I didn't buy them, the guy I bought them gave them to me with the bikes when I bought them. Probably best to not use these pistons anyways.
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I see. I can tell you from personal experience be cautious of those cylinders. If they are Chinese the casting flaws will be insane and the chamfer on the ports will no doubt need attention.
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Are those cylinders brand new oem, Niche, or used ? Just wondering the new looking paint caught my attention.
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Was doing the winter layup for my Banshee, I drained the fuel, cleaned carbs then removed the exhaust, then I noticed the leaking right cylinder. Only happens when I’m putting it at tdc, I haven’t torn the head off yet but I’m guessing the gasket is on the way out
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On 8/18/2017 at 0:52 PM, ZillaFreak said:
unless they have a spare CDI.....
Agreed Zilla. I could only think of that possibility which would defeat the purpose of removing the CDI. But the odds of such people expecting that the bike does not have a CDI onboard, expecting the bike to easily fire up, would lead a thief to be confused unless they knew what to look for. But I respect the fact that this could be a flaw in the idea as mentioned.
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No problem guys, actually came up with the idea after witnessing someone trying to break in my garage. Caught the bandit as he was trapped in the garage and the rest is as thought of. Saved my bikes from being stolen and thought of the CDI removal as a counter measure on the same night.
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I modded mine with snap plugs for ease of removal, I also added a small plug to both connections so no debris can enter. But you can aslo take the stock bolts off the CDI mount, the unit itself, the tools used and stash them in a backpack or something. Works all the same, just makes certain there's no way thieves can start the bike.
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Whenever i'd leave my shee for ahwile, I'll just disconnect the CDI and take it with me. Laugh when you see someone who thinks they got it hotwired until they clue in if they have a clue.
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Sand and shit like that barley come off the front tires, when doing a small corner in mud ive had chunks hit my helmet but thats it.
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370 longrod tri-z FTMFW dude.
Front Hubs stuck on steering knuckle
in Suspension
Posted
Wanna do my front wheel bearings, hub seems to be stuck on there pretty good. Any tips to get this stubborn hub off? Thx