Abstract
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Posts posted by Abstract
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Appreciate the sentiment but I'm actually fairly new to the banshee field(2 years) compared to many on here. I do have a shit ton of experience with mechanics in general, small engines, 2 & 4 cycle as well as automobiles. ive been working on junk for almost 25 years now. And to answer your question yes a cool-head would definitely gain you a few hp while still using pump gas. Although with out a welded crank adding compression will add to the chance of twisting your crank out of phase. also your altitude will change what domes you can safely use and still remain in the pump gas category. 21cc domes is probably what your looking at if your around sea-level. as you go up in altitude you will be able to use smaller domes.
Also you could just have your head milled by a professional and save some money.
below is a dome chart per elevation
lol yea im only 22 years old going on 23, i have allot of background with mechanics, ive always been very curious and i live by, what i can learn and do myself i will instead of paying some one else to do it, theres more pride in building and fixing broken things on your own..
back to topic enough about me, i dont want to exceed the point in wich i have to use race fuel, me and my buds do allot of recreational riding and race fuel is expensive so i dont want to go that route, i find myself cringing when they ring up the big bottle of castor 927 at my local motorsports store, hahaha ive used only castor 927 on my old banshee to my jetskis and my dirt bike, oil itself gets expensive.. im planning on doing a cheap rebuild in the next month or 2, by cheap i mean .050 over pistons or a little bigger with all new gaskets, quality parts ofcourse, you get what you pay for. right now im more focused on picking up a frame with a title, most places we're 'allowed' to ride here in florida require registration on the bikes, so i really want to tackle that first, picked up my shee as it was for $1600 without title, then a rebuild, and then im more interested in handling and traction and comfort before i really start hauling ass, its like race cars, the more power you have the better suspension you need to utilize it and better brakes to stop it..
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Alright sorry guys hahaha I'm still learning, I've got more info then another question.
So I had rented a compression tester from auto parts to check my compression at I got the readings stated above, my buddy brought me his snap on compression tester from work and it's reading 110 psi each cylinder, I feel allot better with that, but obviously it's a little on the low side since I've read I should be in 130 psi range at sea level
Now my question is would it smart or dumb idea to get a cool head so I can switch the domes to get higher compression readings? I read that stock shee at 130 psi with 19cc domes will be at about 169 psi obviously needing race fuel, so I was wondering if I can compensate with a cool head with a dome size that will out me at about 130-140 psi? Thanks for the patience uman your a gentlemen and a banshee scholar lmao
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Hit another snag, did the tors delete, rejeted to 30 pilot 290 main, ran the bike with open carbs it ran excellent, I installed the idle screws and intakes now the shee is bogging out at high rpms past second gear, and if I let off and shift it bogs out at lower rpms, but it bogs and opens bogs and opens but won't go, I'm thinking of putting my 300 main jets in and seeing if it changes anything, any ideas?
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Well did the tors delete today, rejeted to 290 main jet and 30 pilot and a 5 clip needle on 3rd clip, besides clutch slipping, and my rear end not feeling safe at all (gotta look into that) the shee is running great, no bogging out, clean transition through the power band, and there's power through 1/4 throttle to full throttle, plus the twist throttle don't feel to bad, now tomorrow gotta install the idle kit, look into why my axle feels so loose, and order a clutch, you guys have helped me allot, thanks so much I greatly appreciate it guys
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Would you happen to know the compression ratios for different bores? When I rebuild I'm planning on doing a basic .040 over with new pistons rings gaskets ect and maybe a cool head? And was wondering if I can add a 4 mil crank to that setup? I know I'll most likely have to re jet then, just worried more or less on my internal engine setup.
And another question, I've read fmf exhaust isn't great, wich is what I have, what exhaust should I run for best performance? I like how toomey t5's sound, heard they were good, but also heard cpi's were good?
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I did the leak test completely wrong, I made a new one yesterday, I've read of people riding their shees down to 80psi before they rebuild, and that as long as there isn't a 10 psi or greater difference between the 2 it's still tunable? And I did the comp test without my exhaust on, should I do it with it on?
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Oh just remembered, I pulled a jack ass move the other day, I loosened the air screws a bunch and didn't think of it, ran the bike without intake and lost them, I ordered 2 last night as well, not going to mess with the bike until I get all my new parts next week
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Bike now no longer back fires, runs good 1/4 throttle to 1/2 throttle, any more and and it dies, hold it at half throttle runs good, already stated that I ordered 30 pilot jets, 290s and 300's main jets, tors delete and idle kit, and 2 k&n filters to remove air box, should be here before next weekend so we'll see then, I've heard of people running downwards to 80psi a cylinder before rebuilding, so I'm going to wait a few weeks before I rebuild the top ends, probably do .040 over bore until I can save up for a 4 mil kit and bigger carbs
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Just took my carbs and intake manis off, noticed one of my intake manifolds had a bad enough crack I could see through it, I epoxied it, I will buy new ones soon, an I checked my compression, on cylinder is at 100 psi and the other is about 97-98 psi, I read 100-125 psi should be good so I'm guessing I gotta rebuild the top end
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I just ordered a tors delete kit with idle kit and twist throttle (I was on dirtbike for a long time before I got this banshee) I also ordered a jet kit 290&300 mains, 30 pilot, new gaskets and needle jets, and some intake filters to get rid of the intake box, we'll see next week
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Alrite so I figured I was getting to much air, I put the air box back on and now I'm getting my top end back, and my mid range is better then ever, the bike is even revving up better and cleaner, before it struggled a little to get past 1/4 throttle, your help is reall appreciate my friend, the bike is only getting better
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My needle has 6 notchs, it was on the 3rd notch and I moved it to the 4th, I adjusted the air screw to 1.5 turns tey were in all the way, but now I have loss of power at full throttle, low rpms is way better then before, I'm going to put the needle on te 3rd notch again and try it again, oh and leak test checked out, don't have a comp test nor have the money right now to buy a tester
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Main jet 240
Pilot 25
Adjusted my airscrew to 1.5 turns out, they were both all the way in, what is the bronze flight head screw on the out side of the carb right next to the fuel intake elbows??
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Your awesome, I'm in south Florida, elevation is 13 ft, we just had our 2 weeks of winter, has been hot for te past 2 days and will probably only get hotter 70+ degrees currently, I have a single cone filter in air box without lid, came that way, and how would I find out what size carbs I have? I looked all over them and didn't see any numbers
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@uman I know I'm an idiot, I got excited, I'm going to do the leak down test tomorrow, I don't have anything to test the compression, I guess I'll be looking into buying that as well and checking it, chances are if those 2 tests don't pass I'll have to rebuild the engine..
Few questions, should I delete the tors?
Should I get rid of the intake box and run seperate filters?
What spark plugs should I run?
Should I replace the whole ignition system? If so what brands?
Is it possible to find out if it's been bored out?
What size jets should I be using for pipes and intakes?
What would be the problems for no idle?
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My spark plug wire was barely hanging on to the boot, there you go, I feel like an idiot, what would be a good brand for a whole new ignition system? Stator, coil, spark plug wires and boots, and what spark plugs would you guys recommend?
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Dude a few more things to the shee, I think the engine is fd, starting smoking and back firring worse then ever today, going to do a leak test tomorrow see from there
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Alright so this is where I'm at, I adjusted the throttles on the carbs, I cut off some spark plug wire off each one and used the same boots, the bike this morning started first kick, bike is running 100 times better then when I made this thread, clutch is slipping bad, Im already looking into ordering a fast racing clutch, the bike is still mis firring at low rpms, and doesn't idle for nothing, not even 5 seconds, ball joints must be shot up front because the wheels wobble, and the shee swerves when I get on it, my frame is a little bent I'm guessing from previous owner busting his ass on it, plan on swapping for a frame with title regardless, but I'm guessing the front rims might be bent as well, I appreciate everyone's help and $.02, truly thank you guys
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FAST or REDLINE both have good clutches for sale. Both are around $100 I think? Invest in a pancake bearing while your at it. In the future if you wish you can upgrade to a billet basket but I know your trying to stay on a budget.
Cool thanks I'll look them up, and I'm trying to focus more on suspension and other body mods like nerf bars handle bars clutch brake levers new shifter ect before I get into the engine for more power, of course that's after I get this current set up running properly
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And I don't have a boost bottle, It has some small silver pipe that goes from one carb manifold to the other, don't know if that's stock or a good or bad mod, this thing says my pics are to big to upload so I can't show you guys what I'm talking about
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Didn't get the carbs off today, decided to check some simple things out, one carb was opening up before another so I synced them, noticed the throttle cable is a little messed up so I'm going to replace it, on the cylinder that was missing allot I cut 1/4" of wire off the spark plug wire and used the old boot, and wow what a difference, hits hard in every gear, still sluggish at low end, but now noticed the clutch is slipping pretty bad so now I gotta replace that, any clutch suggestions? Plan on going 4 mil soon would like a clutch that grabs hard and will hand future mods, thanks in advance
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OP, do NOT run 50:1 these aren't freakin weedeater engines.
32:1 or 40:1, pick one or the other. As far as your pre-mix goes, castor927 is fine, nothing wrong with that (I use Klotz and so do a lot of other folks but sometimes it's personal preference and availability)
If I were you, while your cleaning the carbs real well and noting what jets are currently in them. It may not be a bad idea to go ahead and pull your reeds and make sure they are ok also but you may want to order (4) new reed gaskets before you do that. Sometimes you can rip or damage the old gaskets when taking them off. Not totally necessary but it wouldn't hurt to look at them since you already have the carbs off.
One last quick note pertaining to your intakes. If that bike has a boost bottle, throw that shit in the trash and get a stock crossover tube. FAST Racing sells them, they are a trusted site sponsor. They also carry a lot of other OEM parts if you may need any.
Everything you are describing definitely sounds like straight carb issues. Building yourself a good leak down tester and checking for leaks is also a very good idea. There is a thread in the "technical" section on the main forum page that will tell you step by step on how to build it. You can buy all of the supplies at your local hardware store.
Don't get discouraged and welcome to the HQ
Thanks man, and glad to be here, my old man bought me my first banshee when I was 13 years old, had fmf fattys some carb work and +4 extended swingarm, that one blew, and just now at 22 years old I decided to get another one after having a yz85 for 2 years, needles to say I love banshees and think highly of them, I'm very mechanically savy with cars small engines ect now just needa learn about the shee, I'll be back on here later with jet sizes, only one cylinder was really acting up, piping fire out and back firring, idk if that's a death sign or what, trying to stay cheap for now, but if I had to I wouldn't mind a complete overhall, thanks again I'll be back late
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I was always told 50:1, but hey I'm here to learn, thanks for telling me, and I use castor 927 2 stroke oil, I'm not completely clueless, haha how can I tell what size jets the carbs have? I'm going to take them off tomorrow and clean them out, also how do I do a leak down test? I do have some oil or gas around the exhaust, seems to be getting to much fuel I think
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How's it going, I just recently acquired a 2001 banshee, she's rough, after about 8 years since I got rid of my first one, I don't know much but wanting to learn, now my issues I'm having are as follows
Bike turns on after a few kicks, doesn't idle very good, misfires like crazy unless reved up, hits hard in 1st gear, 2nd gear hits hard then bawgs a little then hits hard again, 3rd hits hard and dies instantly at wide open throttle, the rest of the gears are like 3rd, at half throttle though it hits pretty clean, Fuel wise I do 50:1 castor oil and 93octane, banshee has new plugs, I feel like more then sure I'm having straight carb issues, i don't know if the bike is bored or anything or if the carbs are jetted or what size they are, has fmf exhaust, I know it's not allot of info but can some one please steer me in the right direction, hate to sound like an idiot, and can some one explain carb terminology please hahahaha I'm lost when I try reading other threads... Thanks allot in advance!!!
Suspension questions?
in Technical Info
Posted
Was wondering if I could possibly buy new stock shocks and replace the springs for after market ones with spring rates that are for my weight? I know you can do this with cars, and complete after market suspension for the shee is out of my price range, I found some stock replacement shocks for the front for around $130 that come with resevoirs, look good hahaha but wonder if I can change the springs on them, I'm 230 lbs and on a mission to lose weight at the moment, so I'm looking at 400 spring rate I read their for 200-220 lb riders, and my style of riding is trail riding, whoops, some jumps ect