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03bansheedw

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Posts posted by 03bansheedw

  1. ZillaFreak- no im not ported, except for my intake ports which i dremelled the center to a "V" shape, and my elevation is low 430 ft, i know my compession is a low( i've honed and re-ringed a few times) but the bike is running great, plugs are burning good.... but if i smash water it seems to make a slide stick up( i shut it down, play with the throttle tap the carb a bit and its back to normal) also i can rip through mud and dirty roads, but if i see a huge water hole i break hard and 1st around the side cause i'm afraid if i hammer though in 2nd or 3rd she'll stick wide open and i'll have to shut it down in the middle.

     

    where in the electrical should i take a look at?

     

    thanks for all the input, i can only get on here late at nite cause of my work schedual lately

  2. i KNow 360's seem huge, but i just did the top end last weekend ( leak down test passed held 6-7 psi) it was a bit rich so i moved the needle position from 2nd to 3rd from the bottom and the plugs are burning a nice dark choc. brown now, also i put a cool head on yesterday and did an other leak down test and it passed again(135 psi both cylinders 21 cc domes) I'm starting to recegnize air leaks a bit better since i've gone through so many stock intake boots( changed to the billet w/crossover)

    I keep my carbs pretty clean.

    My main prob is when i hit water at med to high speed i get very nervous that my throttle will stick wot ( after i hit water it only takes a few minutes and it seems to be fine again)

    Does no one else have this prob with stock carbs? I share a garage with my buddy who has 2 banshees simialar set ups and he has this problem too.  He's got an rm 250 with the keihin carb and now problem hitting the water.

    -tdod101 i ride around petawawa, chalk river, deep river,... ottawa valley area

  3. I've got my bike ripping the way i like, however the stock carbs work great when its nice and dry out, but i like to do some trail riding, and spring is dam wet in Ontario.

     

    Just looking for some suggestions, brand of carb for an upgrade, jetting/needle suggestions anything else i should now.

     

    I've read lots on here, but i'm looking for some veteran advice on my set up. I forget my neddle size but i can get that tomorrow, my set up info is in my sig.

     

    Thanks

  4. the association, the right side does not burn good when at idle, it stays cool and puffs smoke irractiallty( it doesn't have a steady beat like the left side does) i ordered new reed peedles just to be sure, i have my silencers on the way, and i built my leak down tester today at work when i had some spare time, its like minus 15 degress here right now, so i'm waiting for the weekend and i'll go to my work garage un thaw my bike and get the leak down test done and hopefully the reeds will be in the mail tomorrow,... |'ll report back Sat nite with my results..... also you mentioned loading up....does this mean reed peedles open way too much? i odn't think that is the case cause the spark plug dosn't seem very wet, would a super wet plug be a sign of this?

    thanks guys

  5. The Associuation, i swaped sides with the carbs(put the left on the right side and the right on the left) and the problem did not follow.

     

    1_shee, yes i clean both the piliot and main very well, and carbs seemed to be synced fine, while its running and i look inside and blip the trottle it looks like they move exactly the same and that the same amount of fuel is moving toward the reeds.

     

    I looked at the right side reed and it looked fine to me, but i never swaped sides to see if it follows(next thing i do once i get the new silencers)

     

    Jereme6655, i know 360 seems huge, but its ran great with this set up for a long time, choke tube is in good condition, carbs look sync'ed with my eye,i need to build a leak down tester, thats my weekend plan, i know i can find how to build a leak down tester on this site.

     

    thanks for the input lads,keep it coming if you have more ideas.

     

  6. Here is my situation; first the bike, stock motor, put new rings on about 15hrs of riding on them, stock carbs w/tors but not plugged in 360 main 25 (stock polit), k&n air filter with box but no lid, boysen reeds, PT mid range pipes, fat boy silencers, repacked 5 hrs of riding on them(how ever they had cracks where the skinny part of the pipe met the silencer) i've just been jb welding it every few rides, buying some used pro citcuit silencers from nastyracing on the way now . ( i never took the old silencers apart yet to see if the packing ended up all fucky)

     

    So i leaned the bike out on the right side, boost bottle cracked intake,( put my cross over tube back on now) spak plug was almost white. so i put new intake boots and cross over tube on and now it seems to be misfirring and blowing cold smoke out the right side.  it will still rip and hit power band in each gear, starts fine and even idels ok( i mean it runs but right side is blowing cold smoke and doesn't have the same timing and force as the left side) if i rip it  up the road i can stil feel the mis fire every where in the throttle and the right pipe will eventually warm up a bit, when it is at idel and I blip the throtte a shit load of smoke comes out the right side and barly any out the left( which I think once its warmed up it desn't produce too much smoke any way) but why so much on the right side?

     

    Things i've checked;

    tryed new plugs, and older plugs that where burnt perfact choc. brown

    compression test, 122 left side 119 right side

    swaped plug wires

    cleaned carb very well

    reeds look fine

    warmed it up and swapped carbs from side to side( used a 10inch clear hose i had for the choke tube)

    took head off, check for warping with  i think .003 feeler gauge ( i have a clymers book at the garage) it was in spec

    the right side dome seemed to be almost clean and left side a litle dark

    pistons looked ok from the top there was a little ding on the edge of the right one, didn't seem too serious, tiny bit of play when i put the pistons at a half stroke postion so they where at the same height, but both were the same.

     

    so now i'm waiting for the silencers that are not fucked like mine were,......if that doesn't help where do i go next, most poeple are telling me cdi, flywheel, stator.... but i thought changing the plugs wires from one side to the other would eleminate electrical since when i did that there was no change to my problem.

     

    Sorry this topic is so winded.... any help is greatly appreciated.

  7. Looks to me like that boogered up part is just the outer bearing race. Pound out the race with a long punch from the other side. You may need to grind a groove in the race lengthwise with a dremel to make it pound out easier. Then see what the swingarm looks like after that. Be careful not to grind into the swingarm.

     

     

    exactly, cut the outer bearing, and it tapped rate out, sanded it with cloth sandpaper and seems fine.

    thanks for the info

  8. Hi everyone, this is my first post i've usually searched the topics and found my solutions. But not this time. i found play in my swing arm today, when i took it apart the swing arm tube where the spacer and needle bearings go was all chewed up/ one of the bearings let go/ inside where one of the needle bearings needs to go, will i have to replace the entire swing arm now? the tube is so chewed up that where the needle bearing should go thre is no slot for the bearing to be punched in,the other side has a "gapped area" that looks like the bearing will seat right in and the bad side is all roughed up and not very smooth.

     

    I will take a couple pics tomorrow night after work once i give it a complete cleaning.

     

    thanks for the help

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