LS3 Machine
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Posts posted by LS3 Machine
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I prefer to sell the entire set. But if no one takes the set within the next day or 2. 70 bucks, including shipping. Shipping costs add up quick for these parts.
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I will have to unbox the brand new parts if I do that. If necessary, I will, but later today.
Thanks,
Tim
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I sold my Banshee a while back, and never got a chance to install these parts. I will sell them at a great price.
The following 3 parts:
PRM-ATV.com aluminum parts, brand new, still in box.
Desert II Bumper
Bottom Pan .125
Logo Edge 6 Pack Rack.
Check out their website for pics.
The total was over $300 with shipping.
I will sell for $175, including shipping within the USA. No forign sales please,
This is basically half price.
Paypal for payment, local pickup price in South Florida (West Palm Beach is $150). No negotiation, awesome price.
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Yes, I am. Actually, I am not going to follow what the dealer say because they told me to do 20:1 and clean the plugs every 10-15 hours of use and thats too much. I am know at 31:1.
Good job Omar. The dealers in the KSA or the USA for that matter dont know what they are talking about. I guess you got in in al khobar, where I got my 2009 this year?
Enjoy the banshee!
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Yeh I am going to run it at 32 on the second tank.
I'd go closed to 36:1 to 40:1. Omar are you in KSA?
The dealer adds way too much oil here.
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Will a ported 4mil be good for trails and all that?
Yes.... it will be awesome all around.
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I'm only 16 with extra cash to spare.
OK.... so you are 16. with extra cash to spare. Awesome! Now if someone my age (45) would have made me smarter, and told me about mutual funds, and really encouraged me to start one. If I would have started around 18, or 16.... I would be a millionaire right now! But Im not, so PLEASE LISTEN TO ME!! Dude do 200-300 bucks a month into a mutual fund (for the rest of your life) , and spend the rest of the money on saving for a ported 4mil. Start now, and always pay yourself first!!!!!! And don't ever let pussy or anything else get in the way....listen.... I wish someone had told me (and I had listened).
Good Luck!
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700 a month into an IRA or mutual fund, unless you are fully funding a retirement already. Also make sure you have 3-6 months living expenses stored away in an emergency fund. Ive seen too many people here build a nice machine, only to have some life event happen, and they have to sell it for pennies on the dollar. After that, it's a ported 4 mil.
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Ok so back down my timing and I'm good? I have actually been running race gas the last couple of tanks I haven't had any problems I just haven't been making it to the airport lately and we have 110 at the pump.
Id say back the timing down and consider different domes. From your first post you said you are almost flat broke, so I would consider getting domes for pump gas premium. I mean you have a 421 ported Banshee, why not just set it up with +4 timing and domes for pump premium gas? It going to be super fast, dependable, and a lot cheaper to run. If you don't have a lot of funds, your Banshee is 90 percent of what you need to make it fast AND affordable. I mean pushing the bike the the absolute maximum with race gas can get expensive. Just my 02 cents since you asked. Good Luck and keep us posted.
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LS3 are you saying drop it back to the middle clip or raise it to the very top clip? I had it in the middle clip then raised it up one position to lean it out. It may have helped a little but I really didn't see a drastic improvement to be honest.
Raise the clip to lower the needle and lean it a bit. Thats what I meant. Like others said, first drop the mains a bit, then try the needle a notch. One step at a time.
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Well a big thanks to both of you guys. I'm going to drop two main sizes and see how it does when I get a chance to take it back out again. I don't think one size down is going to clean up the plugs that much lol. I will report back when I get it back out with new jetting. Thanks again
Also consider dropping the needle one more notch. That's what it took to get my mid range transition from mid to hi rpm to run right.
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I'm looking to upgrade to a Banshee Cool Head, Was wondering what dome size should I get? I would like to be able to up the compression to about 150+-. If I can reach 150+- for compression, Will it still be safe to run pump gas?
Here is my current setup:
The Motor inside is factory (current compression is @ 110psi both sides), but I've done some mods:
- VForce 3 Reeds
- Timing plate= set @ +5 degrees
- Toomey T5 pipes
- TORS removal mod
-Jetting: 27.5 pilot jets, 270 main jets
21 or 22cc domes seem to be the size most folks go with. Do you have 93 octane available? If 93, I would go 21cc, for 91 I would go 22cc. You already are at 5 degrees timing. The increased compression really make the banshee rip, I have just about the same mods plus PWK 28s, and boy does shee rip. I mostly have traction issues, so I see no reason to add power from where I am for now.
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I just checked your mods:
421 Cheetah Cub Play Port by HJR
Chariot Head 165psi
Shearer Inframe Exhaust
VForce Delta 2s
35mm PWKs w/ pod k&N & Boss Intake
Hotrods 4 mil long rod crank w/ Tz bearing
Hinson basket with straight cut gears
Lockout Cutch
Timing +7
Shift Star, Rod, & Drum mods
+4 Swingarm
What I believe happened is this:
+7 timing, combined with 165 PSI and ported, equals a need for race gas. AV gas might not be high enough octane for your setup. Jetting a little rich does not mean you don't have to worry about having enough octane to prevent detonation. I would back down to +4 timing when I put new pistons in if I were you. (Consider race gas, or bigger domes as well) Also remember, the temps just got a lot cooler, and the air is more dense, leading to a leaner condition for your bike. The load of pulling another quad is also a lot different than just you hauling ass alone. I think these factors lean to the detonation and the broke piston. Ive blown motors before, and I know what it takes to do so. Good Luck and keep us posted.
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I just checked the pics. Ash white spark plug electrode plus poc marks on top of the piston equals detonation. You probably have been running a bit lean all along, but towing the craptor was more load than normal. The engine got hot which leads to detonation. I would put in new pistons, and up the main jets at least one size, and also raise the needle at least one clip. Then ride and check your plugs and powerband. Do it right the first time.
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Welcome!
Banshees are just as reliable as any other ATV when properly maintained. If the owner puts off preventative maintenance it will be more troublesome as it is not as forgiving as a 4 stroke. But, a 2 stroke is simpler by design, and the Banshee in itself is very primitive compared to new-tech 4 strokes. I strongly encourage purchasing a repair manual as this will help you work on it yourself. The money saved is an imediate gain and the knowledge is a long term gain. The banshee is cheap to upgrade and aftermarket parts are everywhere.
My advice, find a friend with one or check out any dealers with a used one sitting around and test drive it. If you have never been on a 2 stroke the power will come on and it will make the timid scared. You get used to the rush quickly and within no time you'll be craving more! haha
Well said. I'm pretty new as well, and my banshee has been easy to work on (and I've done a lot to it). Get the banshee and stay away from the dealerships. They are expensive and do questionable work. Do it yourself, with a manual, a few tools, and the help you get here, you will be confident and competent in no time. Welcome to BHQ!
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Welcome to BHQ Ali. Do you live in Khubar? Thats where I got my (new) 2009, about 6 months ago. Not a bad price. Just don't use 24:1 fuel/oil mix, use around 36:1 tp 40:1. It comes from the dealer with 24:1 in it.
Tim
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Welcome to BHQ!
Post up some pics.... and what you plan on doing to it?
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I think it should be alright. I had a buddy that got his whole shee motor built by them and he loves it. So for parts and advice I think they should be okay
Do you want okay or do you want the best? The forum vendors here specialize in banshees, they could rebuild one in their sleep. Your on this awesome forum getting free information. What better way to pay it back than to sponsor the vendors that sponsor the site? There are a lot of horror stories of financial ass rape and blown motors from people using local shops here. Do whatever is best for you, but I pref to use a banshee specialist for all my parts and machine work.
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Do the stock rods work with the stroker crank? Do I need special pistons?
I believe you use the stock rods, with a different piston. Get the kit on sale at Herr Jugs. He will hook you up with everything you need. The vendors here will answer all your questions. Ive only been wrenchin on my shee for like 4 months. A 4mil is a minor stroke, there are lots of folks here with 10mils.
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I still want to run pump gas(premium) but want more compression. May advance the timing a little. Its a shee that I'm getting that was blown up do to the piston fighting with a plug or debris as well as the ring being stuck in the piston. Can you guys help me with advice and what direction I should go. Not interested in doing a stroker build it would be to much to start off with but maybe later on down the road I will.
Well there is a good chance your crank is f-Ed up. Most people recommend a welded crank, as the stock one is pressed together, and are known to sometimes come loose when you add power. Instead of welding stock stroke crank, I just recommended a 4mil, since it's not much more money, and a 4 mil will broaden the power range. Its kinda like a while your in there thing. A cool head will allow you to increase compression, and a modified stator will allow you to advance the timing. The vendors will hook you up, utmost spends on your budget and how much pow er u want. Read up other posts like yours, and you will get smart fast. Welcome by the way!
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Wow sparky, thanks for the vids. They look like They will be a huge help. What would you guys suggest doing on the rebuild parts wise? Should i go closest to stock as I can or any upgrades I should do while I have it apart?
If I woke up in your shoes, I would get a new 4mill crank, bore and port the cylinders, and just get new bearings, gaskets, pistons, and replace anything that got damaged in the de-skirting. Use a forum shop like Herr juggs or fast, etc. They are all awesome. Make sure you get the jetting right after it's back together, as it's possible thats why it blew up in the first place. Herr juggs is running a $669 special on the parts, plus porting and bore and you will be around a grand give or take a bit. If budget allows a cool head would be nice as well. I don't know what exhaust you have, but if you budget is 2k, find a clean set of used pipes here for about half the price of new (people are always upgrading here). good luck and keep us posted.
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i'm gonna do a top rebuilt to stock for this winter..next spring upgrade will come!
If you doing a top end (pulling of cylinders), you might as well send them out for porting. Then in the spring all yo have to do is add your pipes/cool head/etc.
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It seems that most people here rebuild stock motors when they get under 100 or so. How is the bike running? It all depends on your budget? It would be a great time to do a top end, porting, cool head and pipes.
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Hey guys, I finally upgraded to 28mm PWKs so I can get rid of the stock Mikunis so now I need a starting point for my jetting..
Can anyone ballpark my jetting on the PWK28's? I have NO mains or Pilots right now and the needles are N68A. All I can find on the carbs says that the 'A' on the needles means they are the richest needles if that's even accurate.
Current jetting is in my sig. and I'm at 900ft.
If I was you I would buy a 45, 48, 50 pilot, and start with the 48. For the main I would buy the 145, and 2 sizes higher (I think 148/150?), and start with the 148 or 150. There is a chance that you may need a bit higher, say 152ish. Needle mid clip. 1.5 turns out.
FS: Brand new, still in box bumper, rack, belly pan setup
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