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byenow

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Posts posted by byenow

  1. :shootself: Not the best idea calling out everyone on the forum as "selfish mother bitch".

     

    Here's why you don't get much information....

     

    As previously stated, those who have ported their own cylinders get lucky sometimes and the bike runs okay. The ones that do make more power usually do it at a cost of narrowing the powerband. The real port layouts and designs come from years of knowledge, experience, trial & error, cool mathematics, and lots of money tied up everywhere from tooling to failed experiments. These guys make a living off of port designs and I don't blame them for not sharing all their secrets around the internet for everyone to copy. These companies charge as little as $300 to port cylinders. Tried and true porting... the tooling alone I have purchased for cylinder head porting (4 stroke toys/automotive) costs more than that! It takes more than a dremel and a degree wheel to design a port worth competing.

     

    Some advice in shaping metal in general... You'll get a cleaner/smoother "less wavy" shape using a 1/4 die grinder with cartridge rolls than you will with a dremel. When I port iron heads I'll use a carbide burr with 8" shank but with aluminum I can get away with 60 grit rolls to shape the port and then use 120 grit to blend that shape. Some of the cartridge rolls I have are 1" long and about 1/4" in diameter which would be perfect for smaller spaces such as your transfers. In your other thread, the pictures you posted looked decent for a dremel tool. But I still see a lot of imperfections where the radius of metal can be a smoother transition. This is where the die grinder and cutting tools come into play. I would take a small stone cylinder and shape it to the contour I was trying to achieve. Then I would use that to rough in my new shape. I would then use 120 grit rolls to blend everything together. Also, the cuts look wavy and not uniform. It is probably from using a cutting tool that removes too much material and has too little surface area (such as a small carbide). An 80 grit tapered roll would be more managable and would allow you to create a clean straight cut.

     

    Good luck with your cylinders but take note that most "experienced" porters will share limited (or no) information.

    false... the guy who did mine used a air dremel and a degree wheel and boom my motor will rip compared to a stock one and one with a mild dune port it takes time it was a first time deal and it worked read try macdizzy he knows some shit

  2. honestly no. dont bother trying to make it look better, a stock swingarm isnt even worth its weight in scarp. i understand not being able to afford a aftermarket one, we've all been there. my suggestion is to save up and try to find a good used one, u should have no problem finding a low hour part out on the site.

     

    as far as cosmetics go for the stocker, powder coat it. thats as best as youll get.

    ive seen that quad at silver lake sand dunes in michigan havent i

  3. i dont have the money to buy a new or used swinder nor do i have a decent priced chromer around kokomo indiana i was wondering if anyone has taken a grinder to it and cut anything or smoothed out the welds a bit more any ideas would be appreciated thanks

  4. I have a 98 banshee and jump little bit (10 feet or so) and my right shock when i gas it on flat pavement the right wheel will pick up but the left one will stay touching the ground (not that it doesnt have the power to pick them both up) and i cant figure out what is wrong

  5. I painted my rears on my Banshee over a year and a half ago and they're still holding up great.

    I orginally just painted them for a quick fix because I had a trip planned and didn't have time to get them powdered.

     

    As mentioned above, scotch brite, wash & dry, 2 or 3 coats primer, 4 or 5 coats paint. Give it a shot, it's almost free.

     

     

     

    Are they still painted or...

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