Gummie_guy
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Posts posted by Gummie_guy
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I agree with that but........
This place is a joke i can see some of that some of the time but theres members here that only post drama and dumb shit this is who its adressed to and they know it thats why theyre here defending themselves and their actions.If you noticed the ones to respond are the ones regularly making useless posts.
i pretty much stay in the general section. however the few times i have posted in the help sections or others i have gotten the help i need.
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welcome to the internet. every forum has its share of guys that will fuck with you and a lot of the times people on the forum get to know other people on the forum and give them shit out of fun. other times its stuff that has been covered already and can be searched.
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I did some online black ops on 360 with someone that "PWNS" (inverted controls and shit)on the ps3. needless to say he got his ass kicked on live. i doubt it can be attributed to the controller. i used to turn the xbox off at 11pm EST because there was no point in playing because everyone was so good.
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lol, yah, either get more octane, or bigger domes. forget what your neighbor said, octane need is based on compression, timing, and elevation, not on what motor it is. the stock basket is riveted, so there is no screws to back out....
the screw was from the case and broke the gear on the basket. when i get the time ill investigate further and post back up here, ill have to find a place for some higher octane around me im not sure what i can get around here probably 110 but im not sure.
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so ,maybe i just have the clutch adjusted too much and its slipping the whole time or something? ill tear it all back apart and try it again i suppose since we had figured that all that gear did had to do with the kickstart. its a stock basked as far as i know.
as far as mods i was told its .040 over but im doubting that and i put a coolhead with 19cc domes, i run 93 with klotz and it only seems to blow the left plug out and i had recently changed them which is why ive been thinking it was loose. my neighbor has told me that 2strokes love high octane but i havent been able to get any yet. i figured if it wasnt enough octane it would ping like a friends 400ex did on 87. It runs awesome though.
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buy a new one and keep it lubed and see if it still breaks. mine broke last year and a buddy told me that on a bike that pulls like a shee you need to keep it well lubed.
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alright. I was up in northern michigan ridin the trails this weekend, first real ride with the shee of the year and since my upgrades. rode it fine for a few hours, pulled nice too. spit out a spark plug on one of the trails (must not have tightened it enough) put it back in and got back to the cabin with no problems other than shootin the plug out again when i got there. I have been riding with the chain loose for a while so we take a link out and my buddy moves the kickstart and it doesnt pop back up. we figure its just something wrong with the arm and pullstart the banshee behind his quad. starts right up and get it back to the cabin and right as i get back i hear a pop and it stops running. tear the thing apart and find metal chunks in the side case. from what we could tell a screw behind the clutch basket backed itself out and shattered the gear on the back of the basket? we thought all this gear did was turn it over from the kickstart so we tossed it back together and tried pullstarting it again but nothing happens.
the main question i have is does this gear need to be there to run and thats the problem or is it just has to do with the kickstart and something else broke internally? what are some things i should try and will i need to split the case and check things out? basically, should i be looking into new gears/case? I really want to get this thing fixed to get back out there.
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I would say that if its blowing it like its pressurized then you prolly have something you want to look at.
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basically i want to replace all the electronics on my shee. coil, cdi, everything other than maybe the stator. basically i dont know where to start looking or what brands to look at. are these things i can get from a site sponsor or would oem or others from ebay be a better bet? i did not notice anything other than a programmable ignition on rockymountain.
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would you want to go back to the 400ex now?
nah, fuck that. i am entertaining the idea of picking up a 450 of some sort. and keep this shee.
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Say fuck it and tear up the street for a couple of passes.
Original post got me laughing my ass off. WTF?
the tires hook on the street and lift the front. Im not a complete newb to riding but im not comfortable doing that yet. Im definitely glad i picked this quad up and did the certain mods i have to it.
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I think its a combination of being faster than im used to (after learning on my ex's 400ex
) and the small area i have to ride in and how fast i go in that area before having to brake. -
this thing absolutely scares the shit out of me sometimes lol. anyone else have this issue? I think i peed my pants a little riding today, and mine isnt even highly modified.
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And a wide aperature. I love how shotting with the lens wide open blurs the background.
Shooting with the aperature wide open (f1.4 to 3.5 depending on your lenses) allows more light in so you can use a faster shutter speed or a lower ISO. It also cause a shallow depth of field (blured back ground)
Around F11 is a good who cares shot. good for genera purpose.
F22 is used for taling pictures with a deep depth of field. Stuff in the foreground, and background in focus. Generally you focus 1/3 of the way in the photo.
Your camera has a AV and TV mode. The AV is aperature priority. It allows you to set the aperature and the camera will automaticaly set the ISO and Shutter Speed.
TV mode is shutter speed priority. You pick the shutter speed and it pics the Aperature and ISO. They are kind of like full auto mode only with a little control.
I have a Canon 60D with the kit 18--135mm IS lens and a 70-300mm IS USM lens. The L lenses that have a 2.8 aperature would be sweet but I cant spend $2,500 on a lens. I would like to get the Sigma 8-17mm Ultra Wide Angle lense. It is around 800 bucks.
Get "Understanding Exposure" 3rd edition. It really explains the camera settings and how to take pictures. For any given picutre there is about 4-6 combos of Aperature, Shutter Speed, and Iso to get a good picture. The different combos will affect how the picture looks.
Creative Shutter Speed is also another good one. It talks about how to imply motion, freeze motion, or give a false sence of motion in your pictures.
this is some very good additional information. i have been taking a class on this stuff. and for the OP i recommend turning on the histogram on the camera to see if your pics are getting a correct exposure or are under or overexposed. its become very helpful to me in my shooting. that is if you dont already have the histogram on.
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yea... i mean i think it looks great without the plastics... and yea NOVIS i like that... i think im just gunna go ahead and cutt
now what can i use to make a clean cut and not messin anything up?!use a marker to mark out your lines and then just use a jigsaw. and file it after the cut to get rid of the roughness. thats what i did, i cut mine right where the fender starts to go up so i used the lines that were there.
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i would say cut them. looks way better when you do and when i rode i didnt get so dirty as to be a problem (other than rolling around in sand after hitting a rather big water spot and getting soaked) some guys will prolly say it helps keep you clean (cus the plastics get covered with dirt while you ride, but without them that mud flings elswhere) while others say you dont get any muddier with or without them.
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damn that sounds hella fun. my shee is torn apart right now though. and i think you are just a bit farther than id want to drive to just hang out.
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i find this absolutely hilarious.
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alright, i guess ill look into it. maybe ill search for another set of cylinders to build the motor with and send them to be ported that way i can still ride while they are being worked on. thanks for all the help guys.
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in michigan here yes. the best thing to do is to get your porting done through a site sponsor like FAST.....Jeff will take damn good care of you and he can help you when it comes to choosing a dome size for what octane gas to run. alot of it has to do with elevation which is why you will see some people runnin 93 octane with 19 cc domes (theyr'e usually way the hell up in the mountains) or people runnin 21cc domes here in michigan on race gas or a race/pump gas mix.
are there any site sponsors here in michigan that i could drop the cylinders off to have them ported? part of why i want to wait is i have no clue how to ship. and also part of why i was wondering if i could do it myself. id probably still run the 93 though with a port job.
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I hesitate to say this because I'm not encouraging you to do it but to answer your question, yes increasing compression ratio alone will produce some power thus dictating the use of race fuel to combat detonation but I dont feel that it is worth it at all. After porting and a welded crank, yes its worth it if you dont care about the price of race fuel.
alright. i guess ill wait on adding some compression until i can get it ported and other stuff. i dont have a clue what size domes to use at all though, ive read anywhere as low as a 19cc dome can be used with 93 and also read that 21 is as low as you can go which causes some confusion. might just have to go with 21 and play it safe? would a timing mod still be okay to run with 93?
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its the raised compression (lowered dome size) that up the pressure causing a rise in power...
this is what i understand. so would i benefit from the added compression/timing with the use of race fuel to keep from detonating. or is it something that maybe i should put off til a later date if at all? also read some people do it for the smell too
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alright guys, ive been reading around the interwebz on runnin some race fuel in a banshee. for the most part what im reading is with added compression and timing there is a benefit from running race fuel. even if its not much. but i also read that porting and carb upgrades also help with this power. should i just buy some domes for 93 octane fuel right now and then if i have the motor ported/rebuilt later on get some domes for race fuel? or is it actually possible/practical for me to up the compression and run it and get a little more power? cost of fuel doesnt matter much to me at all so dont take that into consideration at all.
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hmm, maybe ill hold off on porting until i need a rebuild then. can anyone answer my questions about running race fuel? its more of what im concerned about at the moment lol.
Castle Creation Mamba Max ESC
in Computers and Technology
Posted
If my google search for info on the truck is correct then that truck is designed for the 2 brushed motors run off the single esc. it may be fairly easy to find the parts to make it stock and probably fairly cheap. that esc is designed to run 1 540 size motor so even though it may make the truck move its not quite suited to the extra weight and turning the big tires. the esc and motors that go with it are more suited to the on road cars and lighter offroad machines such as buggies, truggies and stadium trucks etc.
if you want it to be fast i would look around the forums and see what it will take to convert to an 1/8th scale brushless motor. this one specifically mmp esc/motor. i believe it is the same system that powers the mmp emaxx's. combine that with 2 3s lipo's in series and you will have one badass machine that can easily hit 45-60+. being that the emaxx chassis has those as an option i dont think it would be too difficult to find the parts to convert it.
I would also send castle an email and see if they can either fix the current esc so you can sell it (i believe its $75 to have it replaced) or see if they will allow you to upgrade it to the bigger one at a price reduced from the retail price. i know a few guys that have sent their esc's back to castle for repairs and have gotten really good deals on new ones and they have great customer service.