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Posts posted by Pat the one the only
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Well if it "blew smoke" out of the airbox and if it almost blew your intake off or your cylinders then....well buddy you got yourself one hell of a backfire...
no it almost blew the 2 into 1 PIPE off the cylinders, and i found it was a bad coil connection, i fixxed it, rejetted, and boy this hauls for an almost stock shee lol
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I had the same problem with my shee & it was the aftermarket CDI box from RM stator. I installed stock CDI box & it's been running fine ever since. If I was you I would buy another known good used stock CDI box.
hmm, i replaced the bad cap, and it still backfires, but VIOLENTLY!, it blew smoke through the airbox, and moved the 2 into 1 which was tightened down hardm almost off the cylinders! its pissing me off, do you think its a cdi? also if i get one, i noticed alba made a nice one with a switch on it to switch ignition maps.... anyways i dont want to waste money if it isnt it tho, any other ideas?
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everythings good, except maybee i had a plug cap go bad, cause we switched one that was falling apart...
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I had a stator test perfectly but when it was mounted the wire burned through and shorted to the case.
my throttle slides are opperating smothely, clean filter, perfect reeds, parking brake switch and tors system including box are removed, and the stator was tested while it was mounted, so im stumped
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my problem isnt with fuel, or compression if it idles perfectly, so it must be electrical, but my stator tested perfectly, could it still be bad? or is it the coil or cdi? if the coil went wouldnt it have no spark? it has fat spark, and idles fine, but doesnt wanna rev
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my banshee is a 1993, with a stock coil, stator of unknown origin (may be stock), and a vitos cdi box. the TORS, parking brake, TORS box, and taillight have all been removed from it, so no issues there, i just took out both reed blocks, saw no cracks so i double checked the tightness, then cleaned both carbs perfectly, put a new choke tube on, and cleaned the air filter. the shee will now kick start and idle perfect, but when i try to rev it cuts out, backfires, and almost sounds like its running on one cylinder, but its hard to tell with a 2 into 1, hmmmm please help me out here guys
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Is it me, or is something missing in that picture?
Wheat
lol always a wise ass nah, that pic is like 6 monthes old during the rebuild
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i lost mine too when i split the cases, the yamaha ones are deff the way to go, and theyre mad cheap just remember to put them in perfectly strait or youlle have problems, oh put a lil loctite around them to mine are still holding tight.
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my banshee is a 1993, with a stock coil, stator of unknown origin (may be stock), and a vitos cdi box. the TORS, parking brake, TORS box, and taillight have all been removed from it, so no issues there, i just took out both reed blocks, saw no cracks so i double checked the tightness, then cleaned both carbs perfectly, put a new choke tube on, and cleaned the air filter. the shee will now kick start and idle perfect, but when i try to rev it cuts out, backfires, and almost sounds like its running on one cylinder, but its hard to tell with a 2 into 1, hmmmm please help me out here guys
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i used an ohm meter to check the stator and using clymer's specs it was perfectly in tune, there are no specs out there for testing a banshee cdi however, and i have no buddys with extra cdi's. i pop started it, and it would idle like a champ, but would cut out and occasionaly backfire on rev up, any ideas? im thinking cdi or fuel
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i checked and i didnt shear a key, i have fat spark, and the plugs are good
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Reeds?
maybe, but i dont hear any odd noises when i turn it over, this is a puzzler..
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just because you can turn the motor off with the flywheel doesn't mean you didn't shear the key.
hmm im deff going to check both tommorow, any other possibilitys?
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a stator can go at anytime new or old i have had it happen new less than 5 hours old
its got fat spark though
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take the flywheel off and make sure you didn't shear the key. also make sure the stator plate didn't come loose.
the stator plate is tight, and i turned the motor over using the flywheel so i dont think i sheared a key, good thought tho
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thats funny the prechargers never heard that one when it backfires just about everone will say its in the electrical system stator,cdi, coil or a bad ground try and swaping parts with a buddy
my stator is waterproofed, i didnt hit any water, and the cdi is recent, idt anything should have gone, unfortunatly i dont have a buddy to swap with that has a banshee
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what type of filter do you run and do they have pre-chargers? maybe even bad plugs?if they have pre-chargers try taking the pre-chargers off and see it makes a difference.
twin air with no prefilter, no problems there, and i swapped plugs with no luck
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i did a cases up rebuild on the banshee and its been together for a month with no problems, and then i was riding at a buddies and as i went to put it away it ran like shit, i shut it off, and after we got the hay in, i started it and it ran like it was out of time, it backfired, then wouldnt rev up, then shut off and wouldnt start. its got spark, gas, and compression, the timing plate and flywheel are tight, and its got tors removed, idk what it could be, please help
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purple and yellow is stock 95 color scheme, and i agree this could be very cool post pics just dont reveal whats inside, lol
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i'm going to be doing a lot to these. not sure how it will work out but i want them to appear completely stock
i always thought that would be fun to build a completely stock looking banshee but have it worked to hell, lol 4 mill with a port job, gutted pipes and silencers, bored carbs, ported reed cages with boyeson reeds, pro design pro flow filter with modiffied air box, decked head, timing plate lmao you could make a kick ass banshee that looked totally stock
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cut some stockers apart for a project coming up kinda supprised what i found no wonder they are so heavy there is perforated steel form fitted and then insulation about 1/4 inch thick between the pipe and the perf. all the enlarged sections have this in them.. kinda crazy. bet once its all gone they will weigh a lot less and probably have a lil pingy to them..
I seem to remember there being a thread about this a while ago and they dynoed the stockers that had been cut open and had the stuff removed against FMF's and the stockers only made 2hp less as i remember... theres power to be made out of stockers you just have to work at it lmao, i have a 2 into 1 that i got for pretty much nothing, but if i want to switch to duals ill cut my stockers, strip them, and buy some DG type II silencers (ive always liked the look of them) to elimintae the restrictive stock baseball bats lol, goodluck and lmk how it goes
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No,No...there is one last chapter in this series.
See this is about the time when the rookies post the following...
Ok guys, I tried all your ideas and thanks to "Veteran member who this same thing happend to years ago" It's running great. Thanks dude for all your help. But I found a guy with a BMX bike and I'm trading for it. I think a BMX bike will work better for the kind of riding I do. Plus I'm tired of always having to work on my 10 speed. Here is the link for the bike on Ebay.....do you think I'm getting a good deal?
that isnt a bad bike though i have a few old school bmx bikes lol
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Ok, before you start reading my post i am not trying to be a dick or anything like that just trying help and elinminate some possiblities, just creating a little check list. I am assuming these are the carbs that came off the motor you just redid. If so did the other motor run with these carbs cause if thats the case i don't see the carbs being the problem i see it being somewhere else. Since you have double checked if not triple checked everything on the carbs and if the carbs be the problem i'm guessing the carbs are just junk and you need some new ones. i did not notice if you posted a sucsessful leakdown test and what the compresion is for both sides. i did notice you said it had alot more compresion now than before and i was thinkin maybe you have one good compresion cylinder and maybe the other one not so good maybe a missing a ring or something like that. Has the cylinders been bored maybe the wrong piston size i have seen that before cause a problem like this. real hard to start if it even started at all and soon as the right pistons went in it ran like a dream. i've been in situations like this before with my banshee they suck and just trying help another banshee guy out. Maybe if you got a buddy you could borrow there carbs for a quick test to see if its a carb issue.
The guy who said the 1-1 bowl belongs on the choke side was wrong, i switched my bowls and it fires up first kick cold and hauls some serious ass, thank you everyone for your help
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you're joking right? you own a 7mill banshee and dont know how to tighten the axle......
help identifiying parts and what im missing on new banshee
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted
No, 125-135 is what a brand new motor has depending on altitude, you are probobly thinking of the compression of a banshee with a cool head with about a 20cc dome.