HectortheHut
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Posts posted by HectortheHut
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Sure I'll line up with one of those ugly bikes if after they beat me they can try to keep up with me on the dunes. And after all that I'll tell him, "nice Banshee, sorry about your dick."
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Great shocks. Don't believe the bullshit. With ATVs, like with anything, there's a lot of brand loyalty involved and people will hang off the nuts of the same thing every other guy is running. Are Elka shocks great? Hell yeah they are, but they are probably only incrementally better than Works for the majority of applications. It's the same shit when we built my buddy's prerunner. Are Fox shocks awesome? Yeah. Are King shocks damn near or as good (shit, a lot of people think they're better)? Yep. It's the same shit for anything you buy. Shit dude, even when it comes to snowboarding. My little bro dogs on me for buying Forum and Tech Nine gear because it's not what's fashionable at the moment. Fuck that noise. Get what you can afford, and unless it's an absolutely cheap piece of shit, you'll be more than happy with it.
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dogg, have you seen this?? ugly drag bike = a lot better looking that this.
I agree with the OP. Stretched out drag bikes look like ass and they can't be any fun to ride. I love it when my buddies bring their hillshooters out to Glamis with me and have to trailer them all the way out to Olds. How fucking lame is that? Bikes were made to ride, and not just in straight lines.
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Just a wild guess, but if you're revving out but getting no power, then it's possible that you're too lean on your jetting. Since you're running a boost-bottle, you might want to check the intakes for any air leaks from cracks.
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Oh shit! Just like that, it's INTERNET TOUGH GUY TIME!!!!
But seriously, all caps is simply poor form. And the name Banshee Boyz sounds like an Irish gay bar.
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Contrary to popular belief, typing in all caps makes your messages harder to read.
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Just put a TM one in, wouldn't use any other. It butts up against the case in several spots to spread the shock around which leads to a reduced likelihood of breakage.
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Yeah getting it off is easy, a good impact wrench will do that.
But putting it back together and torquing it down properly is where the tool is needed.
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Shiiiiieet! My drain bolts won't come loose!
My damn carbs have been leaking since I put them back together. I think I need to go back in and check them out some more, I might have knocked some crap into the float needle seat. If my floats/needles are worn, what should I be looking for? I checked my needle out last time I had my carbs apart, but I didn't really see anything that stood out as worn.
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DAMMIT! I just bought one that costs double that from Vito's. I haven't been doing my homework lately and have been getting hosed on parts.
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Went and rode Gordon's yesterday. Beautiful riding weather from 6:00 pm onward. Love hitting freshies! Only thing is that they are a lot more witches eyes because of the shifting winds.
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I hear boost bottles are good for an improvised bong in a pinch, but not much else.
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Now ya tell me! Haha that has to be it then. I was considering just grinding the tip of the body down.
Thanks!
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So I took my bike out today to make sure everything was on the up and up and I noticed something odd (since I've installed the pancake bearing fix) . Whenever I'm coasting in gear with the clutch pulled, I noticed that my clutch will have way too much slack after I put it in neutral, but if I rev it up enough, the clutch will go back to its original state. I'm assuming the adjusted is threading itself out and in since it doesn't have a jamb nut on it. Obviously, I need a longer adjuster rod. Any ideas where I can get a hold of one? Can I put the torrington bearing itself the stock adjuster housing? I'm going to start tearing my hair out over this damn thing.
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I do have to change out my flux capacitor every other ride, though. Pain in the ass. You'd think Yamaha would have made sturdier flux capacitors or at least made them easier to get to since they're always going out.
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The above is so not true.
My bike gets a complete cleaning and inspection after every riding trip and any thing thay is wrong is repaired.
I store my bikes with a full tank of fuel and the carbs are also full, I use Stabil in the fuel and I have not had any problems, even after sitting all winter.
You don't do a top end bases on hours, you base it on how much compression you have and if there are any extra noises.
You will only spend more time wrenching than riding if you don't fix things correctly the first time.
...or it might be a sarcastic post.
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I got my first banshee when I turned 16. It was a '99 that a friend had that didn't get used or maintained at all. After changing the fluids, air filter, cleaning out the carbs, and lubing everything, it lasted me until my little brother crashed it in 2003. After getting it back together in January it ran great. I'm finally replacing the clutch.
The biggest problem I've had so far has to do with messing with the lower end, but you rarely have to do that unless you're modding something.
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Sometimes they slip off if you tighten the hose clamp too much.
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I just redid my clutch and it makes a lot more noise now. I'm thinking it's because I took out the metal Barnett plates and put the stock style plates with the machined tabs in the new clutch. The Clymer manual says that you have to offset these tabs 30 degrees to prevent clutch noise. I assuming my noise has something to do with these plates. Other than that, everything seems fine.
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I decided to tear into it again and check it out. As far as I know, everything was installed correctly. The only thing I noticed was that I forgot to bend the lockwasher against the nut and the torrington bearing was on the wrong side of the flange of the adjuster housing. I still have to screw the threaded stud all the way into the housing and can't put the nut on it, but so far I haven't noticed any adverse affects.
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We have used ricky stator, ricks motorsport, moose. and oem. They all have failed but the OEM is by far the most reliable and consistent.
How about a rewound OE stator?
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Didn't want to start a new thread so I'll post in here.
I recently put a torrington bearing in, and the first thing I noticed was that the threaded rod wasn't long enough. In my application, I had to thread it all the way into to the rod housing itself meaning I couldn't but the jamb nub on it. Do I need a longer rod? I know the rod going all the way in is indicative of a worn clutch, but I ordered and installed a new clutch along with the pancake mod. One thing I've noticed is that whenever I push my bike back down my driveway, the clutch puller has too much slack, but as soon as I push it forward or run it at all, it all comes back. So far, it's not really an issue, but is this bad? Should I; and where can I get a longer threaded rod? Did I fuck up somewhere when I installed it? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
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ALright, I may have been a little harsh yesterday on my comment to Ragin and I apologize. I could have just said, you don't have to speak to me like a little kid w/a smile on the end of it.
As far as you go Hector, you seem like a semi-intelligent person, but not many people last long around here starting out the way you do. It is kinda like when you first join a group or club or when you first meet a group of people.....you don't generally make friends by starting off being a smart ass and insulting people. But hey, it is kinda fun Jawin anyway so carry on....
I get it. I just have big mouth. I'm an opinionated dude. I respect and like this community, and find it to be an invaluable resource.
I just take joy in being a smartass, please don't take me seriously. I'm often guilty of taking myself too seriously, but at the end of the day, I'm just trying to learn about my bike and be a DIY kinda guy.
I still think a $100 OS radiator is a steal, no matter the greater economic impact.
idle screws with springs
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted · Edited by HectortheHut
I'm pretty sure Vito's sells a kit with springs.
Edit: here you go
http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/product.php?productid=643&cat=372&page=1'