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711jrp

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Posts posted by 711jrp

  1. I'm not 100% of the rules now but when i did mine five or six years ago you needed the sva certificate to get a v5 (logbook), you could register it as agricultural without a sva cert and then re-register it as plg but they have got wise too that loophole and you can't do it that way. You will also need a letter from the manufacture or the supplying dealer (when new)   conferming the date of manufacture otherwise it will end up on a Q plate. 

  2. 8 hours ago, Canadianshee said:

    There is only one road legal or (blue plated) banshee that I have personally seen here in Ontario Canada it had the following done to it to get blue plated
    1.Must have a key to enable/disable motor ignition
    2. Must have a parking break which comes stock on a banshee which is cable activated on top of the hydraulic brakes.
    3. Must have front and back indicators for left and right turns.
    4. Must have a battery to power the hazards lights if you break down on side of road.
    5.Must have a rear brake lights that comes on when you apply the the brakes. (My 2007 has that stock) not sure what years the rear brake light come on. If yours does not have it you will need to order the parts and wiring harness for it.
    6. Float you stator ground so you can charge the battery for your lights and hazards lights.
    7. Horn
    8. Rear mirror
    9. Catch bottles for overflow of rad, carbs etc ( not needed to pass MOT but anything helps)
    10. Road tires
    11. Full fenders as you know.
    Road use is limited to non Kings highway use so you can only use roads that have a posted speed limit of 80Km/hr. I'm sure there are differences between regulations but this is what it takes here. At least here once your bike is deemed road safe insurance is the next battle, tough to find any insurance company who with insure the bike for both on road or off road use. You may be forced to pick the use of the bike, which means you will need two. One for road use only and one for play which is a win win

    Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk
     

    This is pretty much what we have to do to get them legal over here, except for the fenders which we don't need to run also in the UK the last paragraph is not the same for us as we are classed as a car because we pay car tax so therefor can use any road. When I did mine you had to put them through a SVA test to get a log book not just an MOT, not sure if that is the case now.

    Don't worry about getting any hassle from the law, you won't unless you act like a dick 

  3. 4130 will be fine, tube would be better than solid, od.and thickness is down to each set up and driver style.Make it in a way so it is easy to swap for a different spec one without having to rebuild the whole system.

  4. I wad thinking that, they use the shocks on lambretta scooters over here and someone sells a bush kit which may fit the banshee, but its they're over $20 each! That's far too much for a single bush.

     

     

    Chris Applebee could sort you one out if your near to Thundersley in Essex, a good guy to know for cranks and bores too.

  5. You can keep on reporting this image and I'll keep on posting it! You haven't seen or rode my Banshee, I haven't got any pictures of it with this new set up. I changed my A-Arm set up from full flight to Metal Tech because I wanted a 46" Wide set up that would help me carry more speed in tight area's and the set up I had rode great but I wanted the newer updated Components. I plan on building another Woods Banshee sometime within the next few years and I'm going to have the guys at Metal Tech build me this Frame out of forged and extruded aluminum, buy a new set of Maier Plastics and I'll probably run all the stock YFZ-450X front suspension on it and run a Oval Tube Metal Tech Rear Swing Arm on the rear with a 2001 Raptor 660R Rear Shock with the Remote Reservoir. I'll have my Sponsored Builder "Withrow Powersport's put Race Techs Gold Valves in all three Shocks and Race Tech's Triple Rate Springs in the front and a Dual Spring Set Up in the Rear. I'll put together a Motor from the ground up with Billet Cases, +10mm Stroke, and a Serval Top End with Trinity Forged and Balanced Internals, Drive-Line Clutch Components.

     

    This new frame will have enough clearance to run a 7" Electric Fan between the steering stem and the back of the radiator too. The Suspension set ups I'm running perform good in the terrain I'm racing in and I don't think you can put one together that will out perform it where I'm riding and racing. That's my own Opinion but you wont see me dogging and running my mouth about any other guys suspension set ups because they have there Banshee's set up the way they like them and the terrain there riding in. I'm willing to call it a it a truce and stop all this bull shit if you will get off my back.

     

     

     

    178708_10150978763509828_132565206_o.jpg

     

     

    I don't want to come across as inflammatory or rude, as I'm from across the pond there are slight culture differences. You are 11 or 12 years old right? If not I'm truly sorry just trying to see where you are coming from.

  6. Again with the "motion ratio" :confused: ... I hate to see our members fed misinformation.

     

     

     

    wtf is a motion ratio?

     

    I was quite surprised Matt has not come across this term before, it might be a European thing but it was a hot topic in the pits at any race meeting throughout the 80s. The term was/is used to describe wheel travel vs damper travel, ie if 2" of wheel travel resulted in 1" of damper travel the suspension was said to have a 2:1 motion ratio. The term was actually used much more around inboard damper suspension systems with bell-cranks used to amplify the motion ratio aka "rising rate" . Simply put it might be something like this, the first 2" of wheel travel results in 1" of damper travel, the second 2" of travel results in 1.5" at the damper and so on.

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