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tom582

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Posts posted by tom582

  1. I just picked up second banshee it had low comp in left jug and would not kick start but would bump start. I had it punched out and hoaned put it all back together now it is 130 psi both sides im .080 over rest of bike is stock. it has keihin pwk 29 sboodr carbs with 140 main 48 pilot my elev is 1100ft its about 40 out now. i have tested stator,pick up checked gap of pickup . new coil. i run klotz 32:1 it will kick once in a while when its cold but usally only once a day..it bump starts in about two feet and runs great and will sit and idle fine. i dont understand why i cant kickstart it? banghead i dont know if its a carb issue or something else..any ideas would be great

  2. i agree saves alot of headace and time when you catch the problom before it actually breaks and causes way more damage

    ok hears the story..lol i tore it down today and it is not stock!!!! it has .050 pistons and port job..the left cyl had bad rings ..when i took the jug off the front stud bolt was finger tight so it let the jug move around and chewed up the rings...turns out the onlything stock on the bike were the pipes... thank you all for the ideas and help offered.. i liked taking care of it now and saving cash i just had to a rebuild from the crank up on my other banshee..glad i didnt let this one go.........THANKS AGAIN for all the help

  3. We need to know the following to be able to help you..

     

    1. Main jet size

    2. Pilot jet size

    3. Needle position

    4. Air temperature

    5. Feet above sea level

    6. Any other mods

    140 mains

    48 pilot

    center clip position

    1100 ft

    no other mods i dont know why the carbs were even put on..i think 34mm

  4. i pulled the plugs and it had decent spark..? it almost acts like it is floded but bumps so easy i dont think it is

    ive been wondering about the carbs..i did adjust the floats but it does seem little rich..i do know i can pull the choke up while its running and it doesnt change anything..

  5. Hey all, I just picked up a 96 banshee it has keihin carbs and rest is stock. once in while it will kick . It will bump start very very easy after started will run great idle great.. it does seem slight rich but not bad. right cylinder is at 120 left is 100.. I know 100 is about time for rebuild. but it runs great and idles great . why cant i kickstart it banghead ...it does not have tors and key seems to have been bypassed.. ( i do have title and key not stolen)lol thanks for any ideas you may have.

    i pulled the plugs and it had decent spark..? it almost acts like it is floded but bumps so easy i dont think it is

  6. Hey all, I just picked up a 96 banshee it has keihin carbs and rest is stock. once in while it will kick . It will bump start very very easy after started will run great idle great.. it does seem slight rich but not bad. right cylinder is at 120 left is 100.. I know 100 is about time for rebuild. but it runs great and idles great . why cant i kickstart it banghead ...it does not have tors and key seems to have been bypassed.. ( i do have title and key not stolen)lol thanks for any ideas you may have.

  7. 150 is alright for pump.. its 160 + for race... in most occasions..

     

    howerver... if you go down in elevation it can / will effect compression and jetting....

     

     

    so if you lets say jump down to for EX (not exact numbers 500 Feet you compression will jump up and your jetting will be lean)

     

     

    if you go higher in elevation... the less psi you will have and richer jetting...

    thanks for the info. very helpful

  8. hello all i have an 01 banshee fmf gold with powercore 2. i have mild portjob. .040 over pistons with about 6 hours on them. i am at 1200feet above see level. The bike runs incredable i did a compression test held gas wid open and kick afet prob 8 kicks im hitting 150 psi on both sides..sounds little high to me. i had 90 psi before rebuild..? what im trying to find out is 150 psi too much for pump gas and what should i watch for..? It does run great currently on 93 pump gas. im just little scared i guess i dont want to scarp my new top end. :confused:

    here is short vid of it .thanks for any feedback.
  9. Don't be so fucking cheep. You got 60,000+ volts, you think a little tape will stop it? bangheadbanghead:jesterlaugh::jesterlaugh:

    i agree however i just bought new house and rubuilt the motor on the banshee i have to be cheap for little while...thats why i asked, i dont even know what the cost havent checked yet. :confused:

  10. Im no expert but i have heard that around 100-105 it is time for a rebuild... (don't take my word for it).

     

    Also if all it has is pipes and a carb you should be safe to run 93.

    i think 100 is about time for rebuild...but i do know elevation does affect your readings

  11. if you take your time and think things through a little you will be able to do it.....with some help from either a clymers manual or from your factory service manual. MAKE SURE YOU WASH AND DEGREASE YOUR ENGINE REALLY GOOD BEFORE YOU REMOVE IT FROM THE FRAME! (you'll thank yourself later for doing this). There is a half-moon piece behind the clutch pack that must be removed BEFORE you split the cases as it holds the two case halves together.

     

    Another thing i would highly suggest is to go out and purchase two tools. The first is a flywheel puller. It threads into your flywheel and then uses a bolt that is bulit in to press the flywheel off. DO NOT USE A JAW STYLE PULLER.....as it will mis-shape your flywheel and you will be screwed. the flywheel puller is at max $13.

     

    The other tool is a clutch removal tool. You will be using this to clamp down on the inner clutch hub to hold it from turning while you remove the large nut. it basically looks like a big ass set of vice grips with extended jaws and a 90* bend at the end so you can grap things sideways. This will keep you from breaking the inner hub.

     

    but just remember.....take your time and have fun.....working on these bikes can be just as fun and enjoyable as riding them.

     

    pm me if you need any help or have any questions about my post....

    great post. i just tore mine down and wish i would had this info..lol i did get flywheel puller and i bought an air impact for the clutch nut..and that half moon clip had me hemmed up for a min..

  12. Gotta get myself one of those testers! But in the mean time I use paddles pop sticks, Just put one in each throat until they hit the needles and you can see from the side very easily if the slides are in sync as the paddle pop sticks extend what you could normally see by eye. hope that makes sense, Sorry it is the best i can explain it!

    that sounds like a great idea....i did find the tool, Jeff from f.a.s.t. a site sponsor has them for $30 if you have stock carbs ..price goes up if you need lager boots.. I will def be getting one

  13. You really need to do some readiing about the Banshee and 2-strokes in general. A service manual is your friend. Find someone local who is familair with the Banshee. If not get the book. Please don't take this the wrong way but......the is no such thing as a "Power band" in a bike or any 2-stroke. All that is happening when the bike seems to "kick in" is that the engine is coming on the pipe and the bike is in its power band or the area in which the engine is running at its optimum performance. I'm sure someone can explain it better than me. These 350 engines are great when they are running at their best. Get to know it and you will be a very happy camper.

    any motor has a (power band) its simply where your bike makes peak power.. in two strokes they hit high and higher rpm.. v8 chevy has a power band its just smooth not a big hit like a two stroke.. i agree with you i am just trying to say it in a different way.. :bolt:

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