ccspecialtygirl
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Posts posted by ccspecialtygirl
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diedra, i got your message on my phone and on it you said that you are shipping the 3/32" collet?? i needed a 3/16" collet for the #44 handpiece.....not the 3/32". hopefully you shipped what i wanted, and just called it the wrong size....LOL. also, i didn't want a left hand aluma cut. i wanted a 1/8" cylinderical radius end double cut left hand burr and a 1/8" cylinderical radius end diamond cut left hand burr. so, you don't carry the 1/8" cylinderical radius end double cut left hand burrs?? thanks for being so easy to work w/thru this confusion and such w/the 1mc handpiece. later...
No I sent you 3/16 collet for the #44mc and if I said 3/32 I'm sorry. It was a long day. We had several foreign orders and they didn't speak much English so my brain was not working properly. I sent you a Left Hand shape C which is the rounded cylinder in a double cut which is the diamond cut. The alumni cut is also double cut but much more aggresive and we don't stock those in the alumni cut. What I sent was the collet and the Left Hand C in a diamond cut. If you need a deeper cross cut (alumni cut) than the diamond cross cut I can check with our carbide man and see if he can special order some for us. All the Left Hand is 1/8" shank. We also have a few 1/8 x 3" right hand rotation carbide if you ever need a longer shank. Let me know if you have any more questions and hopefully this will get you up and running. Thanks and good luck!
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i believe that snope on here also uses the cornwell unit. there used to be a cornwell tools saleman that drove around my area, but he hasn't been around for years. i have no idea how i would get one and now that i think of it, my bluepoint grinder is the exact same.
2003LimitedBanshee, do you have to use left hand carbides w/this thing? i've been using right hand carbides with this thing and having the cutter end of the cutter, sticking out the side of the spindle w/the collet. now, i see in my cc specialties catalog, that they show a pic of #1mc handpiece, w/left hand cutters, but sticking out the spindle, that's opposite the collet. am i just using the tool wrong? i would think that it should still work properly w/right hand cutters??
Did Roddy help you with figuring out why you were having so much trouble?? Yeah right hand rotation carbide in left hand rotation will cause a bumpy ride and can even break your collet if your not careful. We have people all over the world that use our #1mc daily and LOVE IT and don't have any trouble. We sent out your left hand shape C in the diamond cut but I don't carry the left hand in alumni cut. I can try to special order you some if you need me to. I hope this was the problem and not the #1mc. We also sent your collet for the #44mc and credited your card for the return of the original #1mc minus your new products. The #1mc you sent back worked fine but it can be a confusing handpiece to work with. Your new order didn't go out yesterday but it will be going out today cause I finished it yesterday after UPS picked up. Hope you got it figured out now and back up running. If need anything else just call or write.
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ccspecialtygirl, i shipped it back to you today. you must have been the one that i've been speaking to on the phone the last 2 days? did you ship out my new replacement one yet? i can't afford anymore downtime:) the 44 handpiece that i also bought from you, works fine.
We did get it out and sorry about the handpiece. We will credit as soon as we get the other handpiece. We have had to start charging before replacing after a few customers were returning some expensive warrantied products and after we shipped replacements no charge they never sent the supposedly broken or faulty products back to us so Chris had to change the policy. You would have talked to Debi (my mom) she has been working there ever since they opened the doors in 1970 in Hereford Texas so she knows everything about the tools. Like I said Roddy is supposed to set the timing and he builds the handpieces his self so we hardly ever have a problem but when we do we fix it. If you have any more questions or problems please let me know. Thanks Deidra :thumbsup:
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this 1mc unit is brand new. never used before. the cutter and collet are tightend w/the wrench and the back of the head is tight as well. i can clearly see the bearing race jiggling around, like the bore in the head is a little too big or something. i put an indicator on it and i come up w/.007" of play, back and forth.....yikes. so far, one of the worst ways i spent $340......LOL.
oh yeah, oil is even seeping past the race of the bearing, due to all the slop....yikes again.
Send it back to us if it has that much play. Roddy builds those here at the shop and checks the timing and all before he sends it out but maybe one got overlooked. If you just bought the handpiece it will be warrantied and we usually have them repaired the same day they come to the shop from our customers. We ship out approx 1 to 2 #1mcs a week and once or twice a year have a problem with the handpiece from the shop. Which usually the problem is broken collets by customers who have never used the handpiece before and tighten it too tight and end up breaking it. They should only be tightened by hand. Send it back to us and we will take care of it and ship it back no cost to you. That is how we do all our customers with warantied products. We have never had someone complain about oil seeping so I can help you there but if anything call us and ask for Roddy and he can tell you what might be wrong and how to fix it yourself or send it back and let him do it for free. Thanks and sorry for the inconvience.
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Yes, i have bought them all at cc specialty. If you are the girl who answers the phone i have talked to you more than a few times. :biggrin: I cant remember the handpieces ive got exactly but the mc1 is one for sure. Also got the vise and other stuff as well, i plan on buying more stuff in the future when i graduate and get a job! lol
the porting looks pretty good. A few things i would try is get a smaller round tree or ball shape 6"x1/4" bit and make the "curve" of your transfers better. Where you can see that you havent cut yet needs to be. Make it all on the same level if at all possible. If it were a set of cylinders i was porting i would polish the exhaust more, its up to you and looks ok but id spend some more time on it. What grit did you finish with?
Yeah I am the youngest of the crew. Chris is the boss lady and Debi is my mother and she answers the phone most of the time in the mornings and I don't get out there til the afternoon. I'm Deidra so we may have talked a few times. I am more of the computer nerd for the crew. I usually stick to the paperwork and emails and searching for new merchandise. That's why I joined here so I can pick up on new stuff out there and see how the competition is going. How's the ball vise working for ya? Do ya have the one with the metal ball or plastic? I don't want to get started on the dumb a$$ idea of the plastic ball
but we have went back to the metal. :biggrin: Take Care! :cool: -
I am definitely beginning to take it seriously. This is my first set of cylinders as far as porting them goes, but it's fun and kind of addicting in a strange way! On the #1 MC, what should I be lubricating it with?
I should be putting the final sanding in on my exhaust ports tonight and I'll post up some pics. Going to get a dyno run in next week hopefully with the stock cylinders, but I'm waiting on some base gaskets so I can swap these cylinders on and then make some sweeps with them.
We sell #10010 oil for the #1mc and I believe it is a 2oz bottle for 3.00. It is a nongumming oil and really the only oil we recommend for the #1mc, and in case ya didn't know we do repair the #1mc at the shop and we also sell all the replacement parts for the handpiece. We also resharpen your old carbide cutters for around a 1/3" to a half of the price to buy it new. Do ya got a new catalog? We just had to reprint. Good Luck and keep up the good work. This is a great way to build fans and maybe get them interested in porting. Why not work at home in your own shop with no boss sounds good to me!! :kiss:
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those cd's are a waste of $. i bought one a while back. it tells you nothing. even the most beginner of porters, would already know what the cd tells you. save your $.
Have you checked out our Performance Tuning in Theory and Practice Books by A. Graham Bell? We have them for two stroke and four stroke. They are 35.75. The Two Stroke has the Intro, The cylinder head, springs, the shock absorber, rear suspension systems, the bottom end, lubrication and cooling, power measurement and gearing, intro Motorcross modifications- Endura modifications- Road race modifications, table of useful equivalents and specialty suppliers
The four stroke has Intro, The cylinder head, carburation, the exhaust system, camshaft and valve train, the bottom end, ignition, lubrication and cooling, power measurement and tuning, car engine specifications and modifications, motorcycle engine specifications and modifications, and table of useful equivalents.
I know the price is a little steep but we have a lot of customers who have said it has really helped them.
Thanks from CC Specialty
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oh, come on deckheight....LOL. i did 9 nicasil plated snowmobile cylinders this year and yeah, it sucks. that nicasil is so damn hard, it takes forever to get thru it.
We sell Diamond Points in 1/8" shank that are recommended for the work in nikasil. They come in shapes C (rounded cylinder) D (oval) B (ball) R (tree) and DD (small oval). They are 16.00 each or 4 pc set @ $58.00. They are plated diamond blanks and are precision tuned to ensure even diamond coverage and a strong bond. They can even be used in hardened steel, ceramic and other metals. Hope this helps next time.
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dont port your cases unless you take it apart.
All i use is the double cut carbides. They work awesome. The only single cut one i got is my alumi hog they call it i believe, serious cutting with this.
Do ya get em from CC Specialty? Most use the cross cut (diamond cut) in the 1/8" carbide and the single (spiral cut) in the 1/4" and of course the 1/4" hogs are single cut. Just wondering where ya get your carbide.
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The 90 degree tool from CC is awesome; it's a spendy bugger, but I'll tell you, I worked the transfers over as far as timing, as fast as any other part of the porting. I got the specs recommended from my by Dan Wade (Patriot) back in the day a few years ago. As I recall he said he felt it helped with top end scavenging; As you said, you can't even "see" a difference, but it is there, even if a couple degrees of crank rotation. I know Snop knows Dan, I wonder if this sounds like familiar recommendations? Yes Snop, need to work the intake roof lip more for sure.
As far as domes are concerned I'm actually not sure, I wanted to ask around. I'm running 20cc currently and I kick 175psi at 1900' elevation, which I know is way higher than most feel it should be. I would actually like to maintain close to that, probably around 185 at sea level, currently right over 190, but I'm not sure what size to run. I have some 19's but guessing those probably won't be small enough to maintain that PSI. Okay running a healthy mix of Trick 116 at that PSI...
Yeah the #1mc is AWESOME!!! Thanks we build those ourselves. It is expensive but to our knowledge we sell ours for less than any other company. Thanks for the good feed back. For certain jobs you really need the left hand rotation carbide cutters. We have a hard time keeping them in stock in but they are worth the money if you take porting seriously.
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The proper machine to use is made by CC Specialty tool . The other one that is real close is Fordom. Type in CCSpecialtytool.com and you will see the tools and the prices. Go to ebay and try Foredom, that is the other good machine. Dremel does make a variable speed grinder but it is not going to be heavy enough to do more than a couple of jobs. The foredom type grinder on ebay would be OK for the money. The power at slow RPMs is what you need. Aluminum needs to be ground on at slow speeds. I use carbide bits, some single cut and some double cut. Finish up with sanding rolls.
Don't polish the intake! Its ok to polish the exhaust. I went to a auto paint store and bought some 800, 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit sand paper and used the shank from a old six inch carbide bit and duct taped the strip of sand paper to the shank. Then just go to polishing. Most of the time when you get to 1000 grit the polish looks pretty good.
The big exspence is that 90 degree cutter, but you need it to get the tranfer tubes. How good you get them, and the timeing on the ports will make or brake your port job. You want to widen the ports first then raise. The more you raise the exhaust the peakeyer your power will be.
Really you should go read a book by A Grayham Bell,or Gordon Jennings. If you are serious about porting. If you are just going to clean up the ports maybe you don't need to, but they will tell you the WHY you do thing a certain way or not to do them.
You are so right the proper machine is by CC Specialty. Thanks for the good word!! The #1mc is expensive but it is worth it. Just been on here checking out the word on porting! Lots of Love from Tennessee! :kiss:
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Porting is not every backyard mechanics job, but I have to say, I have my own shop in SA and around here theres not a lot of people that can do a good job so I have done some RGV250s and CRs with really good results, I have messed up some cylinders and done ### jobs as well, but my suggestion is, get a old pair of cylinders and try it on them, If this is something you want to do, you will have to start somewhere. I am still teaching myself and working threw books like A GRAHAM Bell's 2 stroke performance tunning and so on. But this is a trick thing especially when you get into port timings and transfer angles, but I love it and gonne push on in my shop till I get good results. One day all the good builders will not be there anymore, so there have to be new ones to take their places and in my opinion its only experience and 2 stroke technical info that will get you in the forefront of things oh yeah dont forget the $$$
Hope you bought that book from CC Specialty!! :biggrin: That book is pretty thick but we have a lot of customers who say it has helped them a lot. I know this post was years ago but I've just been searching through here trying to see what everyone has to say about porting these days. Lots of Love from Tennessee
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Almost forgot another question I had about my No.1MC. What do you guys use to lubricate your tool. My foredom pieces are sealed, but I didn't know if something like Air Tool oil would work. Thanks again!
We sell tubes of porting wax by Castrol. Most of our customers use this when porting. We also sell Left hand carbide for the #1mc which helps with reaching into the transfers. Just trying to answers some old questions. Hope this helps if not a little to late! :kiss:
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I was wondering about the aluminum hogs. I thought about picking up a set from CC Specialty since all I have right now is carbide.
Good choice!!!
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Have you checked out CC Specialty tools? We sell rubber bullet shaped abrasives. Rubberized Abrasives are silicon carbide abrasive bonded in an oil resistant chemical rubber which has a cushioned action. It works smoothly and softly without gouging or digging into the work surface. It resists clogging and smearing and is ideal for a braod range of applications where metallic or non-metallic surfaces must be smoothed and polished without loss of dimensional tolerance or control. They come in Coarse, Medium, and Fine grit ($0.95each)and use 1/4" mandrels and we also have an 1/8" mandrel. we also sell felt buffs (bullet shaped $16.50 per pkg of 10 or $1.70 each)and polishing compounds ($2.00 each). We also sell simi-chrome polish ($10.50 per 3/4 oz tube or $25.90 a 1/2# can). If you would like more information you can call 1-800-762-6995 for a free catalog and we can answer your questions on all your porting and polishing needs. Hope this helps and good luck :kiss:
Deidra Broadbent
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:kiss: It is always fun to read guys remarks when one guy make a comment about another's intelligence. The fact is if you choose to do this yourself you might want to check out our catalog cause we offer an electric motor with full torque and any speed where as air tools have no control. We also have different handpieces and carbide cutters to help with the job at hand. Just give us a call at 1-800-762-6695 and we can send you a catalog. If you don't want to spend the money for the tools to do the job then please take it to someone who can do the job for you. No shame there. Always remember you can take more out but you can't put it back in. Making mistakes can cost alot in the end so you might want to practice with something before you start working on your ride. Good Luck from CC Specialty!!
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:ermm: Just a thought to crunch on. Wouldnt It be cheaper and less of a hassle to just have someone lIke F.A.S.T of Kevin do the port job. After all the books and the tools you will be into quite a bit of money not to mention the $250 + set of cylinders. I think its awsome to say you built your own bike. IF you are somewhat mechanicly inclined then you can due pretty much the entire bike yourself. But something like port work can make or brake the whole build, and no one would think any less of a pro port job on your bike. I am not bieng rude I have had a few ppl now that have wanted to try there own and just end up having to hunt down new cylinders. And there are a few guys on here that have ported there own and been real sucsseful. So what ever you decide works for you. I would just look into both ways and compare the good and the bad before I spent the money. Either way good luck with your build.
:geek: Yeah tools are only as good as the man (or woman :kiss: ) who uses them. You can have the best equipment in the world and still do a bad job if you don't know what you doing!! But if it is something they are interested in and something they may use more than once then take the test and learn. F.A.S.T. are good at what they do and have bought equipment from us but like I said the tools are only as good as the man who uses them. You gotta have patience and always remember you can take more out but you can't put it back!!! LOL!!
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I got my A. Graham Bell copy from you folks like twenty years ago (probably an earlier revision than current... LOL!). Came free with a tooling order. Still get most of my carbide and cartridges from you, tried the cheaper stuff and it is not worth it! Would probably get new motors and handpeices from you too, but don't need any. Still using the original stuff, it don't look so shiney anymore, but it seems to last forever when properly maintained. Better to only cry once sometimes... Been a while on that website hasn't it... Sheesh!
:geek: It was a nice website when we first got it going but now it is outdated and prices are wrong. Hopefully it won't be long til we get it sorted out and running smoothly. kinda hard to fix it when you tear up the main office computer. Woops!!
Glad to hear you take care of your equipment!! Most don't pay attention to our advice printed in the catalog about proper care for the tools and they end up paying for their mistakes. Yeah we have the revised addition(revised about 8 years ago i believe). Your's is probably a little outdated LOL!!! Ha!Ha! Hope all is well TTYL! -
I am not aware of any "comprehensive" books or videos available individually, however the instructional pages within the program (as well as included paperwork) you get when you purchase the TSR Port 2000 program will answer any questions you should have. Unfortunately, it will also lighten your wallet several hundred dollars...
Short of that, probably the best individual book I have read would be A. Graham Bell's 2-Stroke Tuning. Is is IMHO, not very comprehensive and pretty well dated (I think it was first published back in the 70's or something). It does contain a lot of good 2-stroke info though and can probably be had for less than $30. There are other books I have seen mentioned on this site that I am not familiar with, try some of them maybe???
If you are an SAE member and find it "relaxing" calculating the geometry and force requirements of various body parts performing daily functions... Purchase Dr. Gordon Blairs original 2-stroke papers submitted to the Society Of Automotive Engineers. It's a real "put you to sleep" read. Also several hundred bucks...
:geek: We sell the new revised edition of A. Graham Bell's Performance Tuning in Theory and Practice for 2-stroke and 4-stroke. They are $35.75 each. I don't know if they will help much do to lack of feedback from customers but we do carry these items. Hope this helps. I would say check out our website but it is a piece of junk right now. We are currently working on a new website with better pictures and layout. We also offer free catalogs just give us a call and we can send one to you and you can check it out yourself. We also have some new items we are adding to our catalog. Our carbide is the best quality the only problem is the guy we get our carbids from can be REALLY SLOW getting it to us. We also resharpen carbide. We also can do special order carbide if you need a larger or smaller cutting head for your carbide. We have three main cuts for our carbide which are spiral (single cut) diamond (cross cut) and alumni (deep cross cut). Our shanks sizes range from 3/32 to 1/4". Well got to get back to work. Lots of love from Tennessee :kiss:
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yeah cc are the best but they are so much more than everything else ,,thing better not burn up in 6 months either. i dont think the foredom and cc are interchangeable and like i said the foredom stopped making the micro right angle wand which is pretty much the whole reason to buy one.
:cool: Our TXMC motor is from Foredom, so they are interchangable. The TXMC is the same motor as Foredoms TX series and both will use the same shaft(#93) and sheath (#77). Our's comes standard with the metal SXR1 foot control where as Foredom comes standard with the plastic foot control. Our price is $310.00 for the TXMC.We have three different right angle handpieces. Our smallest is the #182mc that must be used with the long adapter that will attatch to the #93 inner shaft. Our most popular is the #1mc which also uses left hand carbide which are for backwards rotation (left hand rotation). We sell this handpiece ten to one compared to the others. The cost for that one is $335.00. The largest is the #3mc which is has a head length of 2inches and head diameter of 7/8". The costs is $558.00. We sell very few of these due to the costs and the size. We repair all handpieces and motors and also offer carbide resharpening to our customers. Hope this helps answer questions. We also offer 10% discount to first time kit buyers. Lots of love from Tennessee!
Porting at Home
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
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Hey how's the porting tools holding up? It's kinda fun once ya get started huh! Hope all works out well and if ya ever need some more stuff let me know. TTYL! Enjoy the tools. Bye from TN