richybanshee
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Posts posted by richybanshee
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I have used fmf gnarly, pro circuit and T5 all perform better than stock... a friend had FMF fatty they are similar to t5. I currently use cpi but the other pipes have more bottom wnd power on stock cylinders.
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Keep FMF pipes and start riding. Once you feel the need for more power just send the cylinders for mild port work.
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Forgot to mention that I switched the reed cages. The VForce4 installation instruction did not say or indicate that one reed cage hat to be set in a specific side. I did made sure the factory writing (letters) were at the top.
Like I said before, for some reason the cage that was initially at the right side had one of the petals that is slightly opened. But that was not the problem as the bike is working now with the cage in the right side without any side effects.
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The problem has been fixed.
I did not do a leak down test as I did not have all the materials to build a custom leak down tester at the time.
The problem was either an air leak through the gaskets between the reed cage and the cylinder or something wrong with the right carburetor.
What I did:
- in my desperation took the cool head off and inspected everything, then torque everything back to 20 feet-pound
- used carburetor cleaner on both carbs, took jets out for cleanup
- installed 30 pilot jet
- created new gaskets using gasket paper I bought at Pep boys
- installed double gaskets for each reed cage at the join points (2 between reed cage and cylinder) and (2 between carburetor boot and reed cage)
I went to a local area to ride the bike and it is not "running away". Throttle response is greatly improved and revs like it is supposed to.
My next project will be to build the custom leak tester for future utilization.
Thanks for your suggestions.
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I did notice that, on idle, if I pull the choke the bike revs higher
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Ok. I'll try an build a leak down tester.
I took the reeds out again and noticed the right cage has the middle, upper right petal that is not closing completely.
I can see light through that one.
I'll buy new gaskets as well and see if I can get the 30 pilot.
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Ok. I'll try to find the whatever is causing the lean condition.
Took the cool head out to see if there was any kind of damage and there is none.
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Back pressure on silencers:
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I have a video of the problem on my U tube page.
I'm sure the throttle cable is not sticking.
Even though the carb slides are not shown I KNow they are not stinking because the same situation happened when I tried synczing the carbs and the slides were all the way down.
In the video you can see the even when I turn the switch to the off position the bike stays revved consuming whatever full is left.
I was able to kill it by putting the bike in gear and slowing releasing the clutch.
Please advise.
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I'm still having issues with the bike revving up.
The rubber choke between the carbs is correctly installed.
I have checked the compression of the cylinders an it is at 145 psi each.
Took right pipe out... does not seemed to be plugged, damaged... nothing.
I have sprayed carburator cleaner around the gaskets in the reed cages, the carbs, while the bike was idleing and found no air leak. As far as I know if there was some kind of air leak around those areas the bike would have revved higher... did not happened.
I did notice the right side is working a little better, had to turn air screw all the way in (may have to get 30 pilot).
Bottom end seems to be improved and it wheelies when I throttle the bike.
I have switch coils and still the same issue.
I will keep trouble shooting it.
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First of all hope every one had a good "Thanksgiving day".
The problem:
The right cylinder seems to not be working properly.
You can hear the left pipe but no the right pipe. If you put your hand like a feet from the silencers you can feel the back pressure on the left but on the right is almost no pressure and cold. When I rev the bike, half way it just stays revved up.
Mods I have done recently:
Like a month ago I removed TORS system (everything) and installed Motion Pro replacement system with new throttle cable. I initially synchronized the carbs by eye.
Yesterday I installed new VForce4 reed cages.
Lubbed the throttle and clutch cables.
A little story:
Riding the bike after the TORS where removed seem to be ok. At some ATV event a guy told me my bike may have carbs out of sync because he heard the left pipe but the right pipe did not sound the same. He showed me the problem by revving the bike a little and the back pressure on the left was good but the right came to life after more the 1/4 throttle .I rode the event and the bike performed ok but not good and I had on the back of my mind what the guy told me about the carbs. SO I called FAST and bought the carb sync tool and VForce4.
After installing the VForce4 I started to sync the carbs but the bike just stayed revved and I had to shut everything down.
I checked the carbs, the reed cages, the throttle cable but everything seems to be ok.
I thought it was jetting related so I put the needle jet in the 4th position. I fired up the bike again but the right pipe is working colder and the bike stayed revved up.
Bike Mods:
FAST (NOSS) Cool Head with 20cc dome... last time I checked compression was 150 psi
Timing plate +4
CPI small bore inframe drag pipes
TORS Removed
stock 26mm mikuni carbs jetting (Pilot: 27.5; air screw: half turn out; needle jet: 4th notch; main: 300)
I will take the right pipe out, check compression and maybe take the cool head out to see the right cylinder.
Any ideas?
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The question is: Which exhaust yields the best hp on stock engine?
answer: TR6
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pro circuit will give you good power and better low end power
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or just get the T5... best all around pipe in my opinion
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for $130 the fatties seem the best option and you can also (get a timming plate or degree key +4b) and k&n filter
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Had a similar problem... maybe was the same problem.
When I installed pipes, way back in 2005, I disconnected everything related to the TORS and cut the cables only from the big piece at the top of the carbs.
I had not started the bike like in a year and , recently, my sister wanted to use it but the bike would not start and I did not had time to figure it out the problem on that day so long story short... my father took the bike to a mechanic that ended up connecting some of the cables related to the TORS and messed up the idling. A few weeks later I started the bike and it was not idling properly.
Problem:
some of the TORS cables where connected and the carbs were out of sync
A litlle more of the story
After I disconnected everything related to the TORS the bike was revved up because the mechanic had turned the idling screws way up to try an keep the bike idling. What he did not noticed was that by connecting TORS cables back part of the system was taking over the idling part an messing everything up.
Solution
disconnected the cable that goes to a small black box in front of the pipes
disconnected the cable that goes from the switch in the thumb throttle near the handle bars (behind the radiator)
sync the carbs properly
(make sure the cables that come off top of the carbs are disconnected as well or cut them off)
I suggest you see this short video in youtube so that you now how to properly remove the TORS. Then check your setup.
If that does not work then take your bike to someone who knows what they are doing.
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I was surffing the net looking for interesting things and I found something about spark plugs.
It seems Denso, Champion and NGK have been manufacturing the Iridium spark plug. This is the site:
http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_appOther...2898&mfid=1
The spark plugs are for the Yamaha Banshee (BR8EIX). The center electrode is thinner 0.4mm for Denso, and 0.7mm for NGK and Champion. From the info in the site, the Iridium has a 1,200 F higher melting point than the standard Platinum spark plug (BR8ES).
"Originally designed to improve starting and reduce fouling in two-stroke engines, this design was found to improve performance in four-stroke engines as well. All operate on primarily the same principle, a spark plug with fine wire electrodes will perform better than a traditional plug. There are two reasons for this, first is because a smaller center electrode requires less voltage to jump the gap. This means fewer misfires, which should be seen in higher mileage and more horsepower. The second reason is smaller center electrodes reduce quenching." (from the site)
I will like to know if someone have use this sparkplugs and/or recommend using them? :cool:
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Buying the manual is a good idea but for the moment you can manage without it.
Check this article on jetting. It has the pics you need and alot more. Hope this helps!!!! :biggrin:
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i would definately go up one size. i have to on mine anytime the temps drop below about 55F.
Cold weather = more air :biggrin:
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Every bike is different and the environment is the one that will dictate the jetting.
Temperature and elevation are some of the variables we need to know to give you a better estimate.
From my understanding, compression should not have an effect on jetting. Bike should feel stronger at lower rpms (bottom - mid).
Advancing the timming does need jetting changes. With the added compression should not be over looked.
Also, if it is ported, without airbox and all the mods you listed 370 mains sound good to start jetting and work your way down if needed. For the moment leave the jet needle in the 4th clip position.
Another thing you can do is keep the actual jetting, warm the bike take a short ride and pull the choke. If it runs better at FULL throttle, then go up on the mains at least 2 sizes. Test again. When the main has been set, start on the jet needel, etc.
If you ride the bike and does not pull, revs by itself, seems to be getting hot, backfires, probably is running lean.
Hope this gives you an idea on what to look for. :cool:
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I forgot to mention that 240-280 mains seems lean for a bike without airbox and mods listed.
I have seen bikes only piped (procircuit\fmf\toomey) no airbox lid K&N filter, everything else stock with 280-310 mains. Most of them are in that range.
Altitude aprox. 700ft over sea level, temp between 75-95 (considering % of humidity).
Another example:
The people from alba action have tested their banshees with pipes and seem to like 310 mains with K&N filter.
Well, the thing is:
1. Let us know what is already installed.
2. Is better to be a little richer on the jetting than lean.
3. Your listed modifications suggest, from my point of view and experience, and article I have reed, that your banshee should have mains in between 320-340 like I mentioned in my previews post.
4. Lean jetted bikes tend to behave almost like rich jetted bikes, except that you will not fould a plug, you will burn a piston, the bike may feel like it does not pull, over heats, revs by itself.
5. So much variables to consider.
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You did not mentioned the temperature!
Assuming the temp is between 70-95.
Assuming stock non ported.
At your elevation of 375ft over sea level, K&N pods (no airbox) with the other mods you listed.
I think Mains should be around 320 - 340
jetneedle 3rd-4th notch
pilot 30. (procircuit pipes like it rich)
That is my guess!!!!!!
Also, when you installed the timing plate, did you set the pickup coil close enough to the flywheel?
(Ricky Stator recommends 0.020 gap)
Open the carbs, check what jets you have installed. If jetting is really close to what I have mentined check if the bike has some kind of electrical problem.
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Yes, you can feel the difference. I think the power increase will depend on the pipes. With my CPI's the midrange felt stronger. Like I said in another post, I noticed that my bike was getting a little hot so I check the jetting and after that it pulls harder throughtout the powerband.
Mods like:
advacing timing
adding compression
K&N filter and pipes really wake up the performance of the bike.
At least this is what I have noticed in my bike.
Tire size
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted
22" kenda klaw
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