boneyardbanshee.
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Posts posted by boneyardbanshee.
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Been wanting something like this ever since I got my roundhouse.
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forgot to mention, the best thing with this one is it keeps everything up and away from the exhaust, that way you are not blowing crap all over your can and other stuff. It has a dropped down grab bar so its still easy to lift the rear end if neaded.
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Its a PRM one, just like the one in my sig but black, a 2 1/2 gallon can will fit perfect in the middle section. It is a very nice peice I love mine for LONG rides.
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I agree, I own all the hubs, they are nice peices and they are good quality. Some mods were needed but I got the whole setup for about the cost of a LSR sprocket hub so I can't complain. I would have spent well over twice as much to have all LSR products, I am happy with just having the axle.
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Same problem, same axle. Also had to grind the spacers for the axle to get the boss wheel hubs on. But it looks sick now and am happy.
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Dominator 50:1 for several years.
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You both make good points. I have never needed to remove a chain to be town home either. Doesnt mean it will never happen though. I usually carry enough tools with me to do minor repairs and on a trip we always have tons of tools at camp for pretty much anything. I am going to use the rivet link for the initial install as it is supposed to be a stronger link, and carry a clip type with in case a repair is ever needed, wich I doubt. So, my new question is, since I will need to cut this chain to lenth, should it be cut at full in on the carrier adjustment or back it off a little in case a link does need taken out in the future and still be long enough?
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so this is wide open dunes and I can go wherever I want? at one point trying to get out of this, I was in the lake.
ok add trees, roots, wet leaves, and rocks to that.
cool vid though, not sure the other requires much skill than balls and speed, but it was cool also
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Yeah I don't know, I was starting to question this last night also. We do carry a chain breaker with us. I am going to order a spare master that will be a clip stlye. I have never had a chain break and have always used cheap chain before. I doubt this DID will have any problems. I mean, if the chain breaks, I am going to have to used the breaker to make a spot for the new link anyhow right? It would be alot easier to replace it with a clip style, but for the initial install wouldn't the rivet be good? Any more suggestions on this?
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The bottom and middle plates have a groove in them for the pins to rest in while it gets pressed. Think I will just use a center punch to get them started and finish them off with the press. I think I am going to order a clip style link to keep in my pack but I doubt I will need it.
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memory haha, zip locks work well, anything too big to fit in those will be easy to remember.
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Anyone use rivet stlye master links? I just got a new DID chain and it came with one and a MotionPro chain press. My question is will this press do the mushrooming on the rivets also or will I need to peen them myself? I did some looking on the net and saw it done both was but they were not very good vids and wasn't real clear on this. Here is the chain press that came with the chain. In one vid they only used it to press the peices together then they used a tapered bar to peen the rivets. The other vid it seemed they used the press itself to mushroon the rivets also. Any other tips on these other than not getting them too tight. I have only ever used clip type before.
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If you think the dunes are harder please come to PA and try to ride trails that are mostly ridden by 4x4 quads and get through the same crap as they do. Then there are huge rocks, tree roots, logs, and countless other natural obsticals. Then how about clinbing a steep hill with these obsticals on them as well. It takes alot of skill to do well in my area with a quad that has very little ground clearance and no 4 wheel drive. NW PA and NE OH has some of the most diverse terrain I have ridden. With that being said, I would love to ride the dunes and am very jealous of those who can. I am sure I would be intimadated the first few times out.
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the pipe hangers arnt the problem you just need some butter and a hammer
Can't agree more, the stock hangers will work, but they don't fit worth a damn. I got the old ones, almost seems like they aren't even made for a Banshee, even though I know better. Great pipe, terrible fit.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkbVVS894VY
here ya go is this what u requested or expected
haha thats a whole lotta ass, Should be good for awhile now. -
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The part that the cable attatches to is the clutch actuator arm. It goes down into the case and when it turns pushes against the pushrod wich in turn pushes your pressure plate to disengage your clutch.
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It may be something in there but I still think it's the bearing. I had to replace one once. It was totally seized but the arm would still move. Bad news. Anyhow, there are a few ways to go about it. I will explain each.
1: Use the blind puller that Drewski said. This is best case senario. Easy to do if you have one.
2: Cut it out. Got to be very carful. Stuff a rag down in the hole so nothing falls in. Cut a little at a time it will come out eventually. Take a vaccume and suck out any crap left in there befroe removing the rag. Alot harder but don't have to split the cases.
3: This is the way I did it. IF you have been in there before and know the motor this is MY favorite way. Turn the motor upside down. Then you can split the cases without taking the top end off. It is not hard to do if you know the motor. Then you can access the bearing from the bottom and tap it out. When you put it back together make sure to line everything back up in the tranny and you will have no troubles.
Any one these will work, go with the one you are most comfortable with. If you need more info sure we can help.
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Your bearing in the case is toast. That spring doesn't do very much in helping to move the arm, in fact I dont even have one on mine at the moment. Your clutch springs do most all the work. Anyhow, I am sure it's your acutator arm bearing in the case. IF for some reason it isn't that then it is in your clutch assembly.
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Those European mounts are badass.
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Here's BlingStars model with some 'teeth'
That's awesome, back to the drawing board. Thanks Meat, great info as always.
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The first of three rides will be held on April 10th. Always a large turnout. Here is a link to their site for directions and more info.
I will be camping/riding in Wellsville that weekend also. Hope to see some Banshees.
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and if you just plan on reselling them you would more than likely get more interest in the 916's. On another note, I really don't unerstand why you are thrashing them now, you seemed to like them in another post, even though I understand you are looking for different pipes. The pipes are still a good pipe, the chrome came off thats all, that is not their fault, they don't plate them. I am sure they will make it right one way or another.
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I hope they make this right, I hope they refund my money, if the do I will be getting Toomey T-5's, if they want to swap them for something I guess I will get Aliens, with the dual exhaust..
The Aliens are the same headpipe, only difference is the silencers.
chain & rotor guard
in General Banshee Discussion
Posted
Just wonder if it will fit my BOSS sprocket hub. Guess I will have to see the product first. The BOSS hub is alot beefier in areas, but if the gaurds match the sprockets it should fit without issues.