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DJ LiL Mike

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Posts posted by DJ LiL Mike

  1. Basic MX shee

    in MX Forum

    Posted

    Lets put this thread to rest, shall we? This is going to be a long read, so put your big boy panties on.

     

     

    Okay... Here are some reasons FOR and AGAINST YFZ shocks...

     

    PROS:

     

    • Compression/rebound adjustable
    • Piggyback reservoir
    • Threaded preload
    • Look kinda cool
    • Dual Rate spring kits are available for them

     

    CONS:

     

    • Already valved to the MAX from the factory
    • Don't work well on stock arms
    • Expensive to repair
    • Small shafts
    • Small pistons

     

    Now, I am sure there are more pros and cons on these shocks, but that's all I could think of right now. I always have told people, DO NOT run these shocks on stock arms. It's not because of all the ball joint hoopla that people like to blab about, they are just too long, and don't work as well as an aftermarket shock would. Sure, they'll be better than stock, but if you're going to spend 200+ on take off YFZ shocks, why not spend $250 and get aftermarket shocks, that were designed for your machine.

     

    Onto a STOCK Banshee rear shock.

     

    These shocks are extraordinarily good shocks. The reason they work like shit for most people, is because they have to come from the factory set up for such a BROAD range of customers, that unless you fall into the exact make-up of what the Yamaha engineers set them up for, you're not going to like it. From my experience, they are sprung for a 155-165lb rider, and valved for a 200-220lb rider. This makes for a SHITTY ride off the shelf.

     

    They have compression/rebound adjustment, threaded preload, static valving, etc. They are IDENTICAL inside to an Ohlins shock that some people pay upwards of $500+ for. They use the EXACT same seal heads as a Ohlins shocks. The IFP (Internal Floating Piston) in the reservoir, is stamped with the same number as the Ohlins shock. The options for the stock rear shock are endless. Consider them an Elka Stage 3, without all the fancy red anodizing. Same options, and frankly an 1/8th of the price.

     

    I've read through all the bickering on here, and honestly, most of you have bits and pieces of truth, mixed in with a little skewed opinion. I'll do my best to give you the truth, and then my unbiased opinion.

     

    Fact:

     

    Best shocks money can buy >$900 = Custom Axis Racing

    Best "middle of the road" shock $500-$700 = Elka stage 3

    Best Economical shock <$500 = Works Performance Remote Reservoir

     

    These are facts, based on oil flow/capacity, piston design, valving setups, spring sliders, etc.

     

    My opinion:

     

    Buy the best suspension you can fit into your budget. If your budget is less than $1,000 for an entire suspension setup. It's DEFINITELY possible. No you won't have the best of everything, but it will be hand-over-fist better than stock.

     

    This is what I would do for a setup under $1,000, regardless of what terrain you are riding.

     

    • Used Fullflight, wicked, or similar a-arms, +2+1 = $300
    • Used Works Performance Remote Reservoir Shocks = $300
    • Stock Rear Shock, Revalved and Resprung = $238

     

    Total, You'd be at $840ish. Leaves you $160 bucks for odds and ends.

     

    DDQ was correct in his comment regarding Works Performance non reservoir (Steeler) shocks not being a great choice for MX style riding. The reason is this. They are what we call an "emulsion" shock, meaning the nitrogen and oil co-mingle inside the shock body, and during prolonged periods of riding, the oil will foam, and lead to premature oil breakdown, as well as alter the viscosity of the oil deteriorating lubrication properties. Heat can also play a factor in hard MX style riding. While ATV shocks rarely displace enough oil to benefit greatly from the cooling characteristics of a reservoir, under certain circumstances they can; IE MX riding.

     

    The reservoirs serve more than one purpose. In addition to the added cooling, they (using different methods) keep the oil and nitrogen separate, helping to reduce "fade" that is commonly noticed with non reservoir shocks. The oil does not foam, therefore you maintain an constant oil viscosity, and constant dampening characteristics.

     

    Billybobby is DEFINITELY correct in the fact that no matter how much money you put into a Banshee suspension, it is still not going to be the best on the track. Can't say the same about TRX450's, or YFZ450's. $2,000 into a YFZ450, and you will run circles around a Banshee with $4,000 in it. Banshee's are heavy, lumbering machines. They are predominantly front heavy, which makes them difficult to jump.

     

    With everything I've said in mind, Banshee's are still one of the funnest machines to have out on an MX track. The light switch power requires incredible rider skill. I've always said that ANYONE can race a 4stroke, but it takes a skilled rider to be successful at racing a Banshee.

     

     

     

    /thread

    Great write up!! Thanks!!

  2. Basic MX shee

    in MX Forum

    Posted

    oh then why not just give baldwin a call and get some PEPs on order. common man think logically here guy wants to ride the track once in a while not become doug gust. If hes riding a stock banshee I could give him any random shock and he would think its gold stock is garbage. hes not gonna be able to find shit that is set up him for mx on a BANSHEE for a decent price.

     

    If somebody has a set of stock yfz shocks that have been re-valved for a novice MX rider that is going to much better then a set of used steelers.

     

    regardless the guy that started this thread hasn't replied and hasn't given us shit for information. no point in arguing.

    I have replied to this thread a few times and tired to give as much detail as i can in my first post (what more information are you looking for?). DDQ has been very active in this topic and i got my question answered in no time. Even after my question was answered, i have been reading the thread after a new reply has been posted.

  4. Basic MX shee

    in MX Forum

    Posted

    I put YFZ shocks on one of my Banshees and would do it again in a heart beat! Why are you set on aftermarket?

     

    My A Arms are from Stellar (a site sponsor) and are custom made for the YFZ shocks. Highly recommended!

     

    I don't have any experience with the G Force Axle but it's got to be better than stock.

    I'm sure the yfz shocks are decent and all, but how good are they compared to a set of aftermarkets?? Especially for mx?

  5. Basic MX shee

    in MX Forum

    Posted

    Get something with reserviours. Since MX is harder on shocks than recreational riding, Id recommend you stay away from works. Yes, they are much better than stock but my experience with works shocks has been bad. They use smaller diameter shafts and I have bent several of them, shocks I bought brand new. I dont know if their shocks hydrolock or what, but works and MX dont mix. This is speaking about their low end models, the steelers.

    Id look for a pair of used PEP, Ohlins, Axis or Elka. Those are all great shocks. If you can find a coplete front end,, great, but more than likely you will need to pick up the a-arms and shocks seperate, so the shocks might not be set up for +2 a-arms. You will likely need to send the shocks off to get them set up for you, because have shocks set up for your weight, a-arms and riding level is very important. Matt at So Cal suspension Systems is the best guy to send them to.

    If you can afford new shocks, the factory will set them up for you before they ship them. For around $750 you can get Elka stage 3 shocks or PEP ZPS shocks, both are great.

     

    Thanks a lot! Uve been a great help. Now I'll just have to do the research on pricing and see what I can spend.

  6. Basic MX shee

    in MX Forum

    Posted

    This is true. Unless you ride MX every weekend, you are going to be sore the next day no matter what your setup is.

     

    However, I feel terribly bad for you if you took a stock suspension banshee on a track. I know that was not pleasant.

     

    If you are just riding for fun, get some aftermarket front shocks and +2 a-arms. Also get a wider axle. The stock rear shock will be fine for a while. I would also reccomend getting a gripper seat cover and some MX tires. Trail tires (especialy fronts) will really wear you out on a MX track in the turns. MX tires are much easier to turn. For me, going from Razr II fronts to razr MX fronts was like going from manual to power steering in a truck.

     

    Thanks for your reply. It was a rough ride, but i just took it slow and made the best of it. and for the suspension, i was thinking exactly that. I was looking at getting +2 A-arms, and a +2 axle. The shocks im not sure about yet as they are the priciest piece of the project. Im looking for something good at a reasonable price. what would you reccommend?

  8. Basic MX shee

    in MX Forum

    Posted

    I went on a MX track for the 1st time (Calverton MX) and it beat the crap outta me...had pain that same night and next day. I do want to ride MX more often but i dont want it to beat me out like that. Everything on my banshee is stock except the FMF pipes and got a K&N air filter and RAZR's all around. How can i make the ride smoother? Im tryna get the best bang for the buck. I want to upgrade the whole suspension (at least A-arms, front shocks, and rear axle). I wanna keep the stock length swingarm. Please keep in mind that i am not "racing" but just tryna get a more pleasant ride (and softer landings) from it when on the mx track.

     

    Thanks

    -Mike

  11. Best OTG?

    in Banshee Repairs and Mods

    Posted

    X2 I also have big eyeglasses, as does my wife, and the Scott 87s work great for both of us. She uses a Quick strap and I use the regular strap as I sometimes just ride with my sunglasses as I am always the leader. The nice thing about the Scotts is that they take the same lens as the other 80 series goggles so you can walk into any bike shop and get a new lens.

    Thanks, i will deffinietly be going with the 87s.. and some Tear-offs =)

  16. Tires?

    in Banshee Repairs and Mods

    Posted

    hello bansheehqers, im not sure if im posting this in the right section, but im lookin for a new set of tires. Ive made my decision to go with Maxxis Razrs all around. i have stock banshee wheels, so my front tire will be 21x7x10. For the rear, i am debating whether to get the 22x11x9, or 20x11x9. I like the higher hight that the 22" will give compaired to my current ITP MXR4 19" tire. i like drifting and crap like that and ive read that the 22" will affect that. anybody here run 22s on 9 inch rim??

    22x11x9 vs. 20x11x9?

  17. Where can i buy jets?

    in Jetting & Exhaust Forum

    Posted

    i am getting close to making my purchase, but want more opinions about my jet choices. locogato11283 has recommended me a 280 main and 27.5 pilot. ive read on the forum that FMF fattys like big pilots so im also thinking about a 30 pilot...27.5 vs. 30? also, is 280 main good? or should i go higher to a 300??

     

     

     

    Info on Banshee:

    *No port job

    *stock carbs

    *FMF Fatty Gold Series Pipes

     

     

    Info on my location:

    *Jamaica, New York

    *About 40 feet above Sea Level

    *I ride between 40 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit

  18. Where can i buy jets?

    in Jetting & Exhaust Forum

    Posted

    I think I do have some spare 27.5's for real, though. I'll tell you what. I'll check to see if I have 2 extras tomorrow morning and if I do, I'll send em to ya for just the cost of the ride in an envelope. Just cuz I busted your balls a bit. Sound good?

     

    haha na...its alright man...thanks for the offer though

  20. Where can i buy jets?

    in Jetting & Exhaust Forum

    Posted

    Sometimes things just seem to cost more than they should.. But here's how I look at it. I would rather pay one of the good to deal with site sponsors a couple extra bucks to ship me the right items than drive 45 minutes to my local Yamaha dealer and pay them, only to receive the wrong parts and get the fuck around of a lifetime. Give the sponsors the business, bro. Without them, this site wouldn't be what it is.

     

    its nice that they are sponsors and all, but im still not gonna pay $30 for jets. id rather just donate to them or the site if anything....the cheapest ive found is rocky mountain atv &mc...total is about $18....7 dollars shipping...

  23. Where can i buy jets?

    in Jetting & Exhaust Forum

    Posted

    Quit being a cheap ass.

     

    Or go order them from your local dealer and wait it out for them to come in if you don't like the going rate from sponsors and what not. Thing is, they (sponsors) will have them in stock an will ship them that day and you will have them fast and correct .

     

    F.A.S.T. didnt even have the 27.5 in stock....

  24. Where can i buy jets?

    in Jetting & Exhaust Forum

    Posted

    If I remember correctly, I think they come in packs of 4, so the price gets up there pretty quick. No offence, man, but are you seriously stewing over $30?

     

    i know $30 might not sound like a ton of money or something to complain about, but its a rip off...something that costs less than $3 each, and i need 4 = $12...shipping should be less than 3 dollars...max $15 total...so y should i loose the other $15??

  25. Where can i buy jets?

    in Jetting & Exhaust Forum

    Posted

    Where can i buy jets Cheap?? everybody sells them for less than 3 bucks each, which isnt much of a deal with me, but when im ready to check out, the shipping comes out to be atleast 7 dollars...wtf??? 2 mains and 2 pilots cost atleast $20 (including shipping)??? i called F.A.S.T. today and they asked me for $30!! these things cant be no more than about $13 or $14 including shipping...

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