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tapout94

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Posts posted by tapout94

  1. have him check the pickup coil and the flywheel. if the flywheel pickups are rusty as shit then it can really throw things off. also check the pick up coil itself........i wonder if its a heat-sink type issue. stators CAN and HAVE been know to test within spec but be totally bad.....

     

    After the bike sat in that garage which was NOT sealed from this "beautiful Washington winter weather"... Yes, that flywheel was rusted up and corroded, but is has been thoroughly cleaned. The pick up coil is at .018"

     

    I was wondering about the stator. I have the stock stator on, but I have a RS stator that was working when I took it off, and the only reason that I took it off is because it is an RS stator. The pick up coil has been shaved down from being in contact with the pick ups on the flywheel. Maybe I try it..... just to see if I can rule out stator issues?? Or.... Maybe I wait until I've ruled out everything else. That RS stator has been sitting for a while in the same weather. I'm not sure how much I can trust it.

  2. know what jets are in there? maybe something with the stator?

     

    I will ask the mechanic what jets he has in and ask him for the compression numbers. He said the stator tested fine, but I also know that electrical is not his strong point.

     

    You may have a ground problem. Make sure the coil ground is not rusted.. get a book with a wiring diagram and follow all ground connections and make sure they are connected and clean.

     

    Mechanic said he double checked all the grounds, but I will go over it again.

     

    Any other suggestions in the mean time?

     

    Any help is appreciated!

  3. Here is what I can tell you...

     

    I have...

     

    94 banshee w/

    +4 crank

    Port by Nate Mccoy

    Nate's custom recessed domes

    35mm PWKs

    Boysen carbon fiber reeds

    CPI in frames

    91 octane 32:1

    NEW OEM coil

    NEW CDI

     

    Now, a mechanic is working on the bike, so here is what I can't tell you...

    jetting

    compression (But I KNOW it's good)

    resistance

     

    PROBLEM

     

    Bike went through a thousand mile move from CA to WA where it sat for a year in a dark, wet garage. Put new carbs on it and it wouldnt start. Took plug wire off, put in tester plug... no spark. Replaced coil. Had spark, but not constant. Replaced CDI. Constant spark.

     

    CURRENT SITUATION

     

    Bike will start. Bike will run. Bike gets warm, Bike won't start. Pull off one plug wire and insert test plug, bike fires up on one cylinder. Touch test plug to real plug, second cylinder fires.

     

    Needless to say, the mechanic is baffled.

     

    I am lost!

     

    If any one has any suggestions PLEASE let me know!

  4. FSANationals.jpg

     

     

     

    FOUR STROKE ASSOCIATION – 300' Classes

     

     

    Class 1) 0 - 505cc Limited, (OEM 450 based chassis) OEM frame/modified single cylinder 4 stroke motor on gas/oxy gas

     

    Class 2) 506 - 550cc Limited, (OEM 450 based chassis) OEM frame/modified single cylinder 4 stroke motor on gas/oxy gas/methanol

     

    Class 3) 551 - 650cc Limited, (OEM 450 based chassis) OEM frame/modified single cylinder 4 stroke motor on gas/oxy gas/methanol

     

    Class 4) 0 - 650cc Unlimited, (OEM 450 based chassis) OEM frame/modified single cylinder 4 stroke power adder motor on nitro/nitrous/turbo/ super charger

     

    Class 5) 650 - 735cc Limited, (OEM 650 based chassis) OEM frame/modified single cylinder 4 stroke motor on gas/oxy gas

     

    Class 6) 736 - 825cc Limited, (OEM 650 based chassis) OEM frame/modified single cylinder 4 stroke motor on gas/oxy gas/methanol

     

    Class 7) 826 - 1000cc Limited, (OEM 650 based chassis) OEM frame/modified single cylinder 4 stroke motor on gas/oxy gas/methanol

     

    Class 8) 650 - 1000cc Unlimited, (OEM 650 based chassis) OEM frame/modified single cylinder 4 stroke power adder motor on nitro/nitrous/turbo/ super charger

     

    Class 9) Limited Drag Chassis, (rigid frame/streched OEM chassis) after market chassis/modified single cylinder 2 or 4 stroke motor on gas/oxy gas/methanol

     

    Class 10) Unlimited Drag Chassis, (rigid frame/streched OEM chassis) after market chassis/modified single cylinder 2 or 4 stroke power adder motor on nitro/nitrous/turbo/super charger

     

     

    MODIFIED OEM MOTOR - Any internal modification to OEM motor designed to increase overall performance: porting, valves, valve springs, cams, piston, BB cylinder, stroker crank when allowed in specified classes. Override transmissions allowed in all classes.

     

    CHASSIS - OEM frame required with double or single front A arms mounted in OEM position. Shocks replaced with struts are allowed. Rear OEM type swing arm of any length required. Light weight components can be bolted on such as extended swingarms, a-arms, subframe, etc.. No rigid extended front ends or rigid rear swing arm sections allowed. Sub frames, foot pegs must be bolted on, not welded. Frame can be cut to remove unwanted tabs/tubes, but tubes cannot be replaced. Any additional tabs that require welding MUST be approved prior by FSA or the chassis will be deemed illegal for competition. Any relocation of steering stem, radiator, oil tank, battery, etc., MUST be approved by FSA prior or chassis will be deemed illegal. OEM plastic hood piece and tank cover mounted in original position is mandatory. Wheely bars allowed in all classes.

     

    • Definition of OEM Chassis

    * Original Chassis with all mounts and equipment in the OEM position except for the following modifications only:

    Frame straps across the front of TRX450R.

    Relocation of radiator (must be approved by FSA prior)

    Relocation of oil resevoir tank (must be approved by FSA prior)

    Battery relocation within frame.

    Removal of cable hangers and other brackets not used.

    No geometry changes.

    No tube replacement.

    Smoothing of welds for cosmetic purposes only.

     

     

     

    2 Stroke Classes

    Class 11) 350 Modified (stock frame stock cases stock cylinders)

     

    Class 12) 0-550 Limited

     

    Class 13) 0-550 Unlimited

     

    Class 14) 551-750 Limited

     

    Class 15) 551-750 Unlimited

     

    Class 16) Super Twin 750 and up Limited

     

    Class 17) Super Twin 750 and up Unlimited

     

    Class 18) Triple Limited

     

    Class 19) Triple Unlimited

     

    Class 20) Open Outlaw

     

     

     

    FSA SxS Classes

     

    Class 21) Limited SxS OEM Class - Any modified OEM motor (big bore/stroker included) on gas or race gas in OEM chassis, no cc cap. Example: Yamaha Rhino OEM chassis with OEM Rhino motor.

     

    Class 22) Limited SxS OEM Power Adder - Any modified OEM motor with N2O, turbo, or super charger. Example: Razor OEM chassis with OEM Razor motor turbo charged.

     

    Class 23) Unlimited SxS Class - Any after market modified motor on gas, alcohol, nitro, N2O, turbo, super charger or any combination of all. Example: Weber NA motor, Weber motor with turbo/N2O.

  5. I recently bought a banshee the needs new pistons. It has t-5 pipes & the rest is basically stock. I would like to know what piston are recommended to put back into it. I'm not going to keep it just want to fix it to sell it.

    if your just going to sell it, i recommend the cheap kind...

  6. hey guys just want to make sure if i understand this thing right....

     

     

    When i pull my clutch lever in my atv still moves forward very slowly. I also noticed that its hard to put it in neutral b/c its as if i werent touching the clutch...

     

     

    i cant get it right by adjusting the cable by the handlebar. My question is when i take the cover off, do i go clockwise or counterclockwise on the screw for the pressure plate?

     

     

    i cant remember which way does what, but turn it one way and see if you have play in the clutch lever... if so, turn it the other way. cant really go wrong ya know....

  7. my bad meat. i can admit when im wrong. the "country basher" was not directed toward you, but the others who have been talking shit about this country's politicians when we are the ones who vote for them.

     

    you have to admit though, that was a stupid question! who else attacked our soil? i mean, you seem involved, seem educated to the topic, so i figure you would know exactly who the hell i was talking about.

     

    right wing, redneck, religious zealous? YOU LEFT WING, BLUENECK, SECULAR ZEALOUS... lol! sticks and stones bro....

     

    but, go fuck yourself anyway meat. big bad moderator, HQ sheriff.... LMAO and im the redneck...

  8. who "attacked US soil" ?

     

    now that was a stupid question...

     

    no, iraq did not attack us... blah blah....

    the war is in iraq. not against iraq. its not the iraqi army killing US troops. its people that HATE us... hate you.... but ultimately, just people. terrorists. like the ones who attacked us soil.

     

    what the fuck is wrong with you people. this is YOUR country. stop bashing it...

  9. bitch bitch bitch... complain complain complain...

    you act like presidents are god. they are only people. unfortunately, people make mistakes. that being said, Bush had his mistakes, but the war was necessary. i dont give a fuck who you are, you dont attack US soil and get away with it. fucking libs... make me sick. there has always got to be some naive idiot that brings this shit up! yeah, i hope the war ends soon, but not premature.

    GOD BLESS THE SOLDIERS fighting for MY future, MY FAMILIES future, YOUR future! those who fight to make sure my 3 year old daughter can be safe on our land. thank god Bush had the balls to light a fire under theirs.

     

    god bless and thank you R. Rollins!

    and god bless those like you!

    FUCK all the rest!

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