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BansheeKid15

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Posts posted by BansheeKid15

  1. Lol, i get tired of people whining and bitching on this forum... thats why i havent been on here in the last couple months... great to come back and see the same old bullshit happening :confused: .

     

    This site was legit a year or so ago, now we have a bunch of cry babies and idiots.

  2. hey guys, i have a set of t-5s and im pretty sure my jettin is good hence it idles good and when warmed up there is no bog...

     

    anyway i took it for a quick wrap today and there was thin oil resadue in my pipes (obiviously there 2 strokes) but just wanna know how much is ok or wateva?

     

    p.s i also notcied the other day when i started it one cylinder was down for a bit then later on it blew smoke like normal.. wat is the cause of this.. i know it is not a problem ran beautiful today :biggrin:

     

    1000298rr6.jpg

     

    What ratio are you mixing your gas and oil?

  3. try taking off your clutch cover and seeing if your shift shaft is releasing on your shift star. Mine did the same thing, my shift star wasnt able to move to the next gear because my shift shaft kept getting stuck and wouldnt let it grab the next gear. DONT try to force it, you can bend your shift fork. Just take off the cover and see wtf is going on. You will figure it out

     

    Mine was stuck in 2nd, way out in the middle of the dunes. What a slow ride back

     

    I got it fixed turns out it was the piece on the end of the shift shaft, the part that actually grabs the star. It had gotten loose and could wobble to much. I hammered the rivet thing that hols it back down tighter, and modded the shift star while I was there. Now it shifts awesome.

     

    Exact same thing that happened to mine, glad you got it fixed. :biggrin:

  4. An hour??? Really?? Are you guys talking a "rebuild"?? Or swapping a main and pilot and moving the needle while spraying everything clean in the process? Cause I got that down to 20 minutes

     

    It also depends on if you have pod filters or not, using the stock box will bump up the time quite a bit. Once i got pods, it was down to about 30 min or so. Its not hard, put everything back together how it came apart :happy:

  5. Its not worth it. Some people that have PC'ed their stock a arms said that there is a plastic ring inside that will belt, and then your ball joint will be loose. I searched for it about a year or 2 ago, and i decided not to do mine. I have seen people PC theirs, but just a warning. There is no way to take the ball joint out of the stock a arms.

  6. What do you mean by "sandwiched it as hard as you could"?

     

    I took the backing off the battery, and then i shoved as much paper towel behind the battery to keep it foward into the prongs, and then some on top of it to hold the battery still. They are good gauges, but i wish they could have been made so we could splice the power of the bike into the gauge itself. Something i want to look into, see if its possible.

  7. I"m setting the thread up to tell everyone not to waste their money on the CRJ temp gauge. At least not until they fix the problem. Every time I would start up my 'shee the display would shut off after 140 degrees Fahrenheit and wouldn't turn back on for about another 24 hours. I held it in my hand thinking it was a vibration issue and still the same thing happened. This is the third gauge they sent me. What other companies out there make a good one? I heard Trailtech makes a good one.

     

    I bought one a while back, and used it with the same results. I put a new battery in and sandwiched it as hard as i could to the back of the temp gauge... been fine since

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