projectbanshee33
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Posts posted by projectbanshee33
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As seen on Craigslist - Clean and runs very well. List of modifications include:
K & N pod filters (airbox removed)
Keihen 35mm PWK carbs
Boss intake with built in crossover tube (Just installed!)
V-Force reeds
Cylinders are bored to 370cc, ported, and exterior has been polished (two bores left on cylinders)
Pro-Design cool head with 18cc domes
Toomey T-5 exhaust with billet exhaust hangers
Pro-Design water pump cover
Stainless brake lines on the front
Two sets of plastic, one set is race-cut with custom paint, the other has full fenders (currently has full rear, race-cut front)
Frame and hubs have been painted to match the tank and radiator covers
Lazer Star lights
Pro-Design tether switch
Renthal handle bars
Cascade bar clamp
Aftermarket rear grab bar
Front tires are stock on Douglas wheels (one has a slight leak)
Rear tires are newer holeshots on Douglas wheels
One set of paddle tires
Listed on Craigslist for $3500, HQ special - $3250!!!
Would consider a LT80 (running or not) for partial trade. For questions, or to set up an appointment to see, call 620-820-4029
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My buddy makes seat lowering kits for the Honda CRF250R, CRF250X, CRF450R, and CRF450X. Check the kits out at www.speedmetaldesigns.com. Give him a call and ask what he all he has done to lower his wife's CRF250R. She isn't all that tall and has no problems starting and riding it, even in the dunes.
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I haven't had much luck running over them either, even with the 33" mud terrains on my Jeep. Using the High-Lift jack with the weight of the Jeep seems to work well though. Similar to the trailer jack mentioned above.
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stock engine, 150mph???? Wouldn't go that fast if you dropped it out of a plane. Must be the aluminium fuel tank.
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Used Oury when I was racing mountain bikes and now have them on everything that has handlebars. The thicker style grip seems to help with fatigue.
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Going to be going through KC on Wednesday and was wondering where the best place to buy race gas is. Anything somewhat close to I-35 would be ideal.
Place I was getting race gas closed up and left me hanging. Tried buying 100LL at the local airport but they would not pump it into a gas can unless the plane was right there on the tarmac. Apparently there is some new law in effect and it's a $10,000 fine if they pump it into anything else. I asked them how the hell I was going to get my 'plane' to the airport if I couldn't get fuel. They didn't have an answer other than they couldn't afford the fine.
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Have you tried a Heli-Coil or an EZ-Lok insert? I prefer the EZ-Loks but you need to drill out a larger hole than you would for a Heli-Coil.
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There was a thread awhile back about this one too.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku
Anybody running it? and liking it?
Got one on mine, wouldn't run without it.
Here is a thread with pictures of the cap installed.
http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...p;hl=weird+find
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I was buying race gas from Coaches Corner in Joplin, now I am going to have to find another source since they have shut the doors.
Tried three airports for aviation fuel but they wouldn't pump it into anthing but an airplane. Apparently the feds are cracking down on the use of av fuel in anything other than an airplane. And VP's customer service has been anything but helpful. Any suggestions?
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i cant find that thread talking about where to get that. im putting on some fullbores and want one.
I've had mine for a few months now and it works pretty good. I bought mine at NAPA, but any decent parts store should be able to get one. They are made by Mr. Gasket.
Here is a link to the original thread, hope it works.....
http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...p;hl=weird+find
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I can see it now...
"Yeah, I had it pinned in 6th doin' 100+... in REVERSE!"
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If you are going to work on your bike, you need two things, a Clymer's manual and a thread file. You can pick one up from MSC (www.mscdirect.com) for less than 13 bucks and has files to fix 0.80mm, 1.00mm, 1.25mm, 1.50mm, 1.75mm, 2.00mm, 2.5mm, and 3.0mm pitch threads. This should fix your problem as long as the threads have not been hardened which I am guessing they are not if they are boogered. If this doesn't work, then you can always do what others have suggested, weld it on and replace at next teardown.
MSC part number for a metric thread file is 05007034.
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Where did you buy it from? I assume that it does in fact fit and function properly on the OEM Banshee radiator? It sounds like we need someone to try it with a set of Fullbores. Is it much heavier that the stock cap? Does the quality seem to be ok? :geek:
Stock cap weighs in at a meager 1.5 ouces and the thermocap tipped the scales at 2.4 ounces. Difference is less than a shot of tequila.
Here are a couple of pics of the thermocap with Fullbores. One pic was taken while seated, the other while leaning slightly forward.
Only complaints are that the gauge is not liquid filled and the face is rotated 90 degress off with the cap completely seated. Would be nice to clock the gauge somehow, but I haven't figured out how to do it without destroying the gauge. I will probably just leave it as is, put it on with the bottom of the gauge facing the right. Just a quick glance and if the needle is pointing anwhere to the right of straight up, I know I am in the dreaded zone of plenty.
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I've seen several ways of installing a temp gauge on a banshee, but this is by far the sweetest one I have ever seen. Not to mention the easiest to install. I went straight to NAPA right after work tonight and they were able to special order one in for $28. Summit Racing and Jegs both have them for $26. You can even get them in three colors; red, blue, and silver!
Currently I have the meat thermometer style spliced into the bypass line off the head. I hate the fact that it only goes to 220 making it fairly easy to peg the gauge on a hot day on the dunes.
I've got fullbores, so I will post pics as soon as it comes in. Hole saw to the stock plastics would probably work though...
Snopczynski - Killer find!!! :beer:
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Just get the FMF spring and 0-ring kit for 8.99.
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Agree that the seat cover might be from Cascade. The color combo is from '97. Color combinations in '97 was your choice of black or yellow fenders with red radiator and tank covers.
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Why is it that the say 'a penny for your thoughts' but everyone throws in their 'two cents worth'????
Guess it falls in line with how do they get teflon to stick to the pan when nothing sticks to teflon??
Hmmm..........
I'd say you are in for a top end rebuild at the minium, check for play in crank bearings. If the engine seized as quickly as you say it did, the whole rotating assembly could be muffed.
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M10-1.25
Get a thread file. I picked one up for less then 9 bucks and it has 8 different thread pitches on it. This will cover just about every fastener on the bike.
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Same problem here. :
: Apparently it is a VERY common problem. Ever take a gander at eBay?? Most of the people who are selling their a-arms have both lowers and just one of the uppers. Usually it is the left one. I soaked my right upper with penetrant for three days, placed a 4 ton jack on it and applied enough pressure for the frame tabs to begin to flex, added in the 'fine adjustment tool', and it hasn't even begun to break free. I might as well be hammering on the bottom of an M1 Abrams tank. :
: More frustrating than electrical problems. :shoothead: Guess I am going to take the cutoff wheel to it this weekend.
As far as replacement parts, check out partswarehouse.com. They are 20% cheaper on factory parts than anyone else that I have found. For those of you needing the top bolt, they are $5.78. The pivot shaft is a bit more pricey at $13.43 and the nut is $3.39.
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I had the same problems with my CPI's. :
: Had to space the hangers way out to keep them off the head. Also had the same problem with the silencers being way off. Picked up a set of silencer hangers from modquad and it helped on leveling the silencers BIG TIME. Looks pretty even now. Gotta love the CPI's though, they put out some awesome power. My FMF's were very respectable, but the CPI's RIP 
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Oh great masters of the Jetting and Exhaust forum...... Take it easy on me, I'm a BansheeHQ forum virgin......
Building up a 'shee that I bought last summer that was totally trashed. The engine had been disassembled by someone who barely understood 'righty tighty, lefty loosey' and put all the parts in a milk crate. Therefore the enginehas been affectionately called my 'crate' engine. It is now returning to it's former greatness
but I need some advise on jetting. I have the slow jets dialed in on the Keihin 33PWK's with a #50 slow jet and I know I am going to have to go bigger on the mains, but just unsure how much bigger. I have FMF fatties on now, but CPI inframes are on the way (had a set but was damaged in shipment, currently waiting on a new set ). I really didn't want to buy 20+ jets only to use a few of them. See below for list of all the other mods. Elevation is about 1000 ft. and timing currently set at +4 degrees. What do you all suggest???
Best of craigslist..................
in General Banshee Discussion
Posted
http://seks.craigslist.org/sno/4055012625.html
It has a boost bottle, a jet kit, and a tors removal kit. It must be fast.