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2003LimitedBanshee

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Posts posted by 2003LimitedBanshee

  1. quick question. i purchased the yfz450 hubs, spindles and rotors. My stock brake calipers wont bolt on, I guess the bolt from my banshee calipers are too short. do i need longer bolts or do i have to run yfz450 brake calipers?

     

    No you don't have to run the 450 calipers. I thought I had mentioned it, but you WILL have to pickup some YFZ450 caliper bolts. With the aluminum spindle, the caliper mounting bracket surface is a bit thicker and the stock bolts won't reach.

  2. I have a brand new Wiseco Top end for a Banshee. They are new in box. Opened just by me and the machine shop guy last year to match my bore to the pistons. The reason i am selling this is because the juggs i had last year he did were lost in the mail. The new juggs i bought are a much bigger bore so these are useless to me right now. Top of the boxes say 2.540" and the other 2.5405". I guess that's what he measured them at. My old juggs were stock bored so i guess this is .10 over. Not sure. I can measure them with a caliper at work tomorrow evening unless the sticker can tell you.

     

    Here's some pics.

    http://rc.superdave2u.com/new%20top%20end1%205-17-09.JPG

    http://rc.superdave2u.com/new%20top%20end2%205-17-09.JPG

     

    Note: One circlip is not included but the other 3 are. When i was doing my top end on my current engine, one flew across the garage and i lost it so i took it from one of these. But you can just reuse your old one im sure. Also the stickers in the boxes are messed up.

     

    Price is $120 obo shipped w/ paypal fees included. I am looking for a set of NEW prowedges mounted on light rims. I would give these plus cash. Shipping will take place at the latest, the fallowing morning after i receive payment.

     

    I'll take those at $120 shipped including Paypal. PM me and let me know. I work until 10 PM PST tonight, so I prob won't be able to respond until then, but I want them and pay fast. No, "I'll get you money on Friday" stuff here...

  3. mines never been on a dyno... i dont care i go by seat of the pants.. like i said thought it was gonna be a good race actually i was kinda worried i was gonna get smoked..

     

    No, I totally agree with you in most regards. I've done all of my tuning prior just by looking at plugs and paying close attention when I was riding. I can tell you however, my 50.6HP pass sounded the same as the 55.7HP pass. However, when you looked at the curves, there was a huge difference. Sorry, I'll stop now, I don't want to hijack the thread.

  4. i rode a hjr dune ported 4mil .. ran good revved fast.. but it wasnt even close when we raced... alot had to do with the other guys tires but it felt ok when i rode it... but then again it was dynoed at 60 hp maybe that was why it wasnt close...

     

    The HJR dune ported 4 mill dyno'd at 60HP? That was more than yours or you stomped him? Do you know what his setup was? I just dyno'd my T5 bike that I ported at 55.7HP without tuning and too big 20cc domes (instead of the 18's that just showed up from David @ NOSS).

     

    I hear great stuff from a lot of people about Kevin's work!

  5. got me some stock bore poweder coated cylinders on a trade for some shocks. Sent them out monday to get a full drag port by a local guy here in Memphis. Said my 5.3's with kenda klaws in 300ft dirt would go to at least a mid 4 with some pro wedges after the port.... which ive acquired also..... also droped my domes from 21cc to 18cc..... got the cylinders and piston kit today and got it back together a couple hours ago..... heat cycled it a few times, full cool down..... and let her ass rip in the back yard, HOPEFULLY the wife dont see the 6 inch trenches i dug in the grass after a few 1st to 4th passes, the pro wedges are awesome turned backwards..... and man.... I am totally blown away at the difference between a non ported moter and stock, but he didnt do alot of things that alot of the builders on here do and I was just wondering would these things make a difference, The intake was widened and raised damn near to the intake transfer but in the middle it wasnt knifed like ive seen alot of guys do theres about a 1/4 flat spot on the bridge of the intake. Also he barely touched the transfers on the side, the exhaust was noticably bigger and polished nice, all the windows were changed, widened, raised etc, but the intake being knifed, and the transfers not being hardly touched will that make a difference? I mean it rips hard, revs alot higher, alot quicker, i can say im pleased, here are some pics, I KNOW you cant tell much from a photo ubt i wanted to show the non knifeing i was talking about:

    PIcs were taken with a iPhone, bare with me hahah

    BEFORE

    stockport.jpg

     

    DRAG

    dragport.jpg

     

    Okay, so I know the intakes are impressive looking, but the real work is in the exhaust and the transfers. Take some pics of those and post them up. That tells worlds more than anything else...

  6. I did recognize those dirty jugs lol and the work looks good! no doubt about it and 55 isnt bad at all with stock carbs and the jetting not dialed in perfect. See now your getting the addiction to power and before you know it your going to start looking at cubs and saying hmm I wonder lol. I would say get some bigger carbs or borrow some for the next dyno trip and see what else she can do just to mess around abit

     

    Yeah, I was really hoping break into the 60's, but maybe that is a little ambitious for a first time DIY port work? I don't really think I'll go down the cub road; I prefer the stock look. I'd love to keep tweaking, porting and tuning to try and get into the high 60's or even 70's with diff carbs, pipes etc. My CPI's just showed up from BoostedRex, man are those things FAT!!! I'm actually looking at picking up a set of OKO 30's just as a test of the bigger carbs.

     

    I'm going to be working on your cylinders for quite a while tomorrow night. Should be able to finish up the intakes and the transfers. Still waiting on my cases so that I can set the port timings... Oh and I have to get some money out to mopar for a spare crank, I didn't forget mopar... :blush:

  7. Peak HP without ANY jetting adjustments at all when it was on the dyno was 55.7HP. My initial pulls only made 50.6HP and 31.8 ft/lb of torque. BUT, the filter was disguisting dirty. I was getting really dejected, but the dyno owner/operator recommended we pull the outerwear and make one final pull. That's when it made the 55.7 HP. 5.1 HP loss from the freakin' outerwear!!!!! The filter was disguisting underneath the outerwear still. So, with swapping out the domes, cleaning the filter and fine tuning the jetting, I'm pretty confident I should push the 60HP envelope hard.

     

    So, back to the drawing board for now. I don't feel ashamed of the numbers it put down, but I'm hungry for more! Next cylinders should make more and will have much more aggressive timings. Darthwall, after this run, I'm pretty confident we should be able to put together a hard running combo. Did you recognize some of the latest pics? :biggrin:

  8. Good guesses... Keep them coming, I'll drop the numbers here in a few. Are you guys hedging the numbers down figuring it's rook doing the port work? Or would these be numbers you'd be happy with? I'm expecting a good jump when I get the right domes in there and clean the filter like it should have been. Had to have my dog put down this AM literally just before I pulled the bike, so didn't have a lot of motivation to get everything prepped properly...

  9. So the results are in, any guesses??? A couple things, NOSS head 20cc domes (read: too big) VF3's, stock carbs (no TORS), Toomey air filter w/Outerwear (embarassingly dirty), Timing set at +4*, T5's (repacked about 3 months ago), air temp 65*, elevation 1100', RAIN (approx 76% humidity at time of runs), Golden Spectro mixed at 48:1 with Trick 116, stock knobbies (approx 60% left) and my port work.

     

    I'm not overwhelmed by my results and I can't remember what people say it should turn, so bring on the guesses. I'm not trying to say these numbers are going to blow anyone away, just posting for the learning benefit. I'm also not saying that a dyno is an absolute, but I can say that after my first experience with a dyno it would seem to be a GREAT tool!

  10. OK that picture helps alot. I'll have to make sure thats connected when i get home...I hope its something dumb like that.

     

    I dont remember see that tube. but maybe I looked past it.

     

    We all have one or more times, no matter how many times you've wrenched. Keep in mind that picture is from the cylinder side. But, more or less it runs a straight line from the choke pull between the two carbs. As we've said, this sounds highly suspect. Good luck!

  11. From what i've found, just using a regular cable with tors removed will work. I recently replaced mine with a new one from FAST. I just ordered my 28mm ones from the guy selling them via Taiwan on eBay. you DO get better prices going through him directly though. scooter_wolfpack@hotmail.com is his email address. you can also hit him up on MSN.

     

    Now I'd probably recommend waiting til I get mine to order, but I paid $60 each for the carbs, and only $6 for a pack of 10 jets. (Just remember to get 2 packs...i forgot on my initial order). Pilots through him are $4 a piece.

     

    I paid $30 for express shipping, which means that even from Taiwan, I'll get it by either Friday or Monday. I'm keeping my fingers crossed, and will let everyone know.

     

    Did you custom order your jet pack with different size mains? From what I saw, his pre-arranged packs on eBay (saw wolfpack's listings) didn't come with the main sizes that people seem to usually end up in on the OKO/PWK's?

     

    I think I'm going to call CPW today to see if they have any stateside already? I'm already TORS-less, so that cable should work fine. So you were $150 then for the carbs and express shipping, which looks tobe less than a week? That isn't bad at all. I'll probably source the jets somewhere else, unless he did a custom arrangement for you in the right range? If I remember right, the packs I saw topped out right about where most people recommended you start. BUT, I'm def not a PWK guy at this point, no very little at the most about them.

  12. choke crossover tube, connects the two carbs together.It will not run without it. I didnt see,stock carbs?

     

    It will be a small black tube that runs from the carb with the choke pull on it (left carb as sitting on the bike) to the right carb, without the choke pull. This has gotten the best of us time and again. I consider myself a pretty good wrencher when it comes to it, but all of us forget. After doing some carb adjustments after porting my cylinders recently, I kicked for probably 2-3 minutes off and on (bike never takes more than three) and it would barely start. You guessed... choke tube. Happens to all of us, repeatedly, you just get in a rush. Since you just adjusted the needles, there wouldn't really have been a reason to pull the carbs completely, but did you? Did you make main adjustments? Another overlooked item is making sure you got the float bowls back on the correct carb, if you had them off?

     

    As with others, my guess is going to be choke tube, but if you didn't take the carbs off, which for just a needle change you didn't really have to, then we're back to square one. As savage said, nothing major here, something small and in the end retarded. As long as you didn't drop or hammer on anything right?

  13. I have just purchest a new set of CPI inframes to replace my FMF fatties. About how much will the new pipes effect my jetting. The reason im asking is i only have 2 sizes bigger than what im runnig now and dont want to have to buy more jets for my stock carbs that i wont need when i get 33PWk's this winter. The bike is stock with v force 3's, no air box, noss head with 22cc domes, and +4 timeing plate. Also this winter i am going to build a 4mm cub motor will these pipes work well or should i have gotten Shearers. thanks

     

    I've got a set of CPI's coming tomorrow from BoostedRex and he recommended I go up 4 main sizes from my current jetting. However, I am running T5's currently which seem to like more fuel than the FMF's (SST's are about the closest), so I would guess that you are going to be more than that. I would guess, depending on your elevation, that you are probably right around 300 right now? 290-310? So with that, based on the recommendation given to me, I would put you somewhere around 340. I would buy at a minimum, a size on either side of that. At a couple dollars a jet, my opinion is that is far cheaper than leaning it out, or looking like the two stroke guys that give us a bad rep and fouling plugs all day.

     

  14. What has anyone found out here? I emailed Carb Parts Warehouse the other day, but I haven't heard anything yet. I think I am going to call them tomorrow. I've resisted bigger carbs up to this point, but I'm getting a set of CPI's in a couple days, so I figured I should consider stepping up. These seem like a very economical way to test out bigger carbs without breaking the bank. I'm interested to hear anyone's experiences. Thanks - Brian

  15. Should give you more top end. Hit up boostedrex about some cpi's he'll take care of ya. Iam getting some from him to replace my T5's.

     

    BoostedRex is also hooking me up. I've got a set of SB inframes coming any day now!!

     

    225, I would think bigger carbs could help. I've been a long time believer that many people over-carb their bikes, but with my porting and now the CPI's I'm going to be pushing 400 mains. I'm thinking at that point, if I'm up to needing almost 400's, bigger carbs could be justified. I'm trying to find out about some OKO's, sound like an economical way to break in to the bigger carb world.

     

    Also, hope you enjoy your a-arms!

     

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