BansheeBob
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Posts posted by BansheeBob
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I took my emergency brake off, I put new 30mm Carbs on, put in a Ricky Stator Timing plate set to +4 degees, set the pickup to .20 and put a twist throttle on also. I just unplugged all the TORS stuff that went to the stock E-Brake perch and thumb throttle and I unplugged the 3 prong connector to what I believe is the TORS box. When I am kicking it over I'm getting no spark to jump the gap??
Any Idea's
Thanks a bunch for any help...
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Toomey T-6's, 30mm carbs, V-Force 2's, bought the superstock porting templates from race logic, Ricky Stator timing plate starting at about 4 degree's advance, Noss head. Want a reliable, 1st kick duner with some healthy punch. I've seen people write about T-6's being decent with a stock motor, will I be close enough to stock? Hate to shell the dollars for new pipes unless the difference is really dramatic.
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Don't tell me that the billet water pump impeller I just paid for was a waste of money
I am also relocating the reservoir.... -
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Actually I am getting rid of the parking brake crap and the thumb throttle at the same time as removing the carbs and TORS. Do I still need to unplug anything that wasn't unplugged when removing all that stuff?
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I am putting new carbs on the Shee and removing the parking brake crap at the same time. Question is do I just unplug all the TORS and parking brake stuff and leave the empty plugs there. I searched far and wide and couldn't find an answer here hoping someone might be able to help. Anybody ever follow the TORS wiring to it's conclusion and remove everything, or most people just tape off the empty plugs that are left? Anything else I might need a heads up about??
Thanks!!
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Need some help on getting new carbs for my Shee. 2002 Shee with Toomey T6's, Vforce 2 setup and mild porting. This bike is strictly a duner, but I want to keep some low end while improving on overall power. Saw a set of 30mm D slides on Ebay I was interested in, but see a bunch of 34mm on their to so what's everyones take on carb size?
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Well, then YOU of all people should know that when your on the trail riding fast, no wait super fast, that there's still a difference in that compared to when you've been past the edge and there's one person behind pushing you harder and there's another person in front your so desperately trying to catch. Knowing, you may not have much left in you, but somewhere you have to find the extra uumph.
There's a difference when your out on the trail for 30 or 40 minutes and have the luxury to stop and take a piss if need be, stop and grab a drink, you can slow down and wait up for someone, back off the throttle for a moment when your thumb cramps up.
You of all people should know that when racing for 1.5+ hours, there's NO stopping, NO backing off, it's riding at the edge of control for over 1.5 hours. Sure, the first 30 or 40 minutes ain't so bad, but after that third lap, things start getting numb, body parts start cramping up, your mouth is caked with dirt, your legs are becoming rubber, your out of tear-off's and it's getting harder to see, still no stopping, gotta make up more time.
If that's how you trail ride, then my hat's off. And by the way, I'm not here to prove what I've done, how fast I can ride and what I can do, that's what real-life is for, not the internet. I'm not too worried about impressing someone on here. If you don't like what I have to say, hit the back button.
Actually for most of this post I agree with you. Don't agree with the part about "back off the throttle for a moment when your thumb cramps up" though, because most of the serious racer's I've come across ditch the thumb throttle in favor of the twist throttle but that's just me. The comments I took issue with were "your only at 60% if you wanna keep up with anyone in a race" and "anyone that thinks they ride trail at a speed that would be competitive in race conditions are kidding themselves." When I trained for racing I did it at race speed, period. True every once in a while you have to push things to and past the edge, but I practiced at race speed so it was something I was comfortable and familiar with come race time. I think you'll find most pro racers practice at race pace. Again though I agree that race conditions are just about impossible to duplicate. Who said anything ahbout impressing anybody anywhere
. I told you my racing background so that you would at least have an idea of my experience level which is why I asked what your experience was. -
Actually I do, but they are on my home PC and I'll need to hunt for them. Basically looks like a stock 250r with a bigger jug and an extended swingarm. Used the stock 250r frame and fabricated custom mounts for the 500 engine. Actually use the stock rear fender, so you need to take it off to kick start it. Engine and pipe was built by an company called JT Racing who back in the 80's built the fastest odyssey's in the country including a car powered by a 500r cylinder that had a tunable while driving fuel injection system. Don't think that they are still in business, but they also were known as Dirt Werks back in the day and you can read about some of their stuff in the very first issues of Dirt Wheels and 3&4 Wheel Action magazines. I know I'm dating myself here
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Well, that's when I'd say, "your only at 60% if you wanna keep up with anyone in a race." There's NO trail ride that compares to racing. Sure, a person can ride "fast trails" or whatever, but nothing, not even my "race pace" practice can compare to actual race conditions. And anyone that thinks they ride trail at a speed that would be competitive in race conditions are kidding themselves.
I can ride trail at race speed and I don't think I'm kidding anybody including myself. If I choose to "go for it" on a trail I am doing it at my "race speed". Faster than some, slower than others. Trail speed and race speed is totally dependant on rider ability and if you think any differently you are kidding yourself. I can promise you that Ricky Carmichael or Doug Gust riding "fast trails" will smoke 99% of the people out there in any race. For the record I have raced at the highest levels on ATV's including stadium racing back in the day. How about you?
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That is frieking sick dude
Don't recall ever seeing a 2 stroke with a turbo other than an old Detroit Diesel. Would love to hear a turbo Banshee though, talk about howlin at the moon 
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Had a close friend running down the highway last night on his 600 Honda at the speed limit when he crashed into a stalled car on the roadway. It appears some guys were towing a SUV with a tow strap when it broke and left the car on the roadway momentarely with no lights or markers on. Apparently James(my friend) didnt notice it or the lighting was bad...not really sure, but he hit it square on and died instantly.. After he hit the SUV, the guys towing the damn thing tried to run away but bystanders got the tag number and they were arrested later that night. I'm not preaching, Ive been a biker for over 35 years, but just sit and imagine what his last thoughts were and keep it in mind next time your blasting around on your street bikes...Jim
Really sorry for your loss bro. Lifelong friend dropped his bike right in front of me last summer and died before the ambulance got there. I ride a Harley and pretty much expect every car out there is going to try and kill me. Even with that attitude I am fully aware that my next ride could be my last because sometimes even with the best intentions things happen you can't control. I came close to giving up my Harley last summer but love to ride too much. Godspeed to your lost friend.
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Here's the link for the k&n pod filters
http://www.rockymountainatv.com/Machine_Sh...ar=1999&status=
Well that makes it easy to find
Thanks!
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Bob, you are still comparing single cylinder bikes. This is a different animal. i have ridden my bike on numerous scrambles, and other races. A lightened flywheel utilizes the banshee's engine much better than a stock flywheel. The only thing that could help you on a rocky rutted wet hillclimb would be a four stroke. Which puts you in a different ball game all together. I still stand by a lightened flywheel in ay condition. I have tested it time and time again. Flywheels are very simple to change on the fly, and I have done just that. With a 2-1 pipe, (which I have run, personally, on my bike) and a lightened flywheel, the banshee is a great woods bike. The pipe puts the powerband where you want it, and the lightened flywheel lets you tap the power on demand. If your worried about the rocky uphill, ride it a gear high. Taller gearing also helps. As mentioned previously, a shorter swingarm helps out immensely in the traction department. Have a great ime at Dumont. I aspire to make it out to that coast, at least someday...
Okay, I give up
..... I hear you about the only thing that could help you on a rocky rutted wet hillclimb would be a four stroke 
In my case when I head to the trails I take my King Quad and when I see that kind of hill I throw it into low range and lock the differentials 
Not sure where you are from, but the Banshee was made for big tall sand dunes and there is just nothing like like it
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Stop trying to apply physics to lightening the flywheel of a banshee.
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i have the same problem, after a summer of riding my resivoir tank is almost empty and i know that it is not burning or leaking it any where else but that one tube that comes off the top of the resivoir and drips onto my pipes. I would suggest looking at the like that fixitrod gave out, i just read it and i am going to mount the tank at the front of the bike. i hopw this helps you bansheebob because reading this thread helped me too.
Yes, this thread has some great info on it. I think I will move my reservoir, that's a mod that makes sense. Headed for Dumont in a couple of days, first trip on the shee and looking forward to a shake down cruise....
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I would agree with you that being a twin will absolutely reduce the flywheel effect. Still, for trail riding "tractable linear power" is most desireable and lightening a flywheel will have and adverse effect on tractable power regardless of the number of cylinders. Yes it will more pronounced on a single as opposed to a twin. To improve tractable power on a 2 stroke the flywheel needs to be made heavier, there can be no arguement on that, it is a law of physics.
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again, understood, BUT... concerning a two stroke motor in which the gas is premixed, rich or lean most commonly refers to gas to oil mixture for the purpose of lubrication to the top end.
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I agree with you about the shee being the toughest sport quad to wheelie, but it's really a matter of getting to the balance point. Once there you are actually better off going a little too far back becuase a tap of the rear berake will bring it back to the balance point.
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Please Help! No Spark
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted
So is the pickup setting supposed to be .20 or .020?? I just used a standard flat feeler gauge that said 2 on it.....