fun_on_the_sand
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Posts posted by fun_on_the_sand
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For lights, think about going with a DC setup and a 250 watt stator. Throw on four 50w HID's (similar to the placement on my bike below) and you'd be GOLDEN at night. You can never have enough light at the dunes!
I know you can get a 200w stator from Ricky Stator, but I didn't know there were 250w stators avalible, how makes those?
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If I decide to go with the agresive dune ported stock cylinders, 4mm cranck, 19-20cc domes and CPI inframes... what do you think of the 2 into 1 intake with 35 or 38 PWK airstriker? do you think it will pick up the bootom end?
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classified's are your friend. if u want to build one from scratch all brand new thats alot of cash. i bought my motor used and took it apart and checked and replaced some stuff that saved me atleast 2-3 thousand. bought a rolling setup title included with plastics and custom axis shocks, roll design a arms for 1500. u see where i am going with this. u can build your $7-10,000 dune quad for a far less price if u have time and shop around and have some handy skills
I get your point and I agree. That's what I'll try to do, try to get a non-ported used banshee 02 - 05 with either CPIs or T5s (I am monitoring for the right deal localy) and start from there. I know the whole project will be expensive, so I'll try to save on the big things.
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Glamis is wide open and the dunes are huge and soft. Horsepower rules there. I would build a 4mil aggresively ported stock cylinder or a 4mil cub, 39pwks with billet bowls, shearer inframes billet clutch basket, HD clutch, billet impelar, cool head and lots of bling. +2+1 a-arms, good shocks, widened rear axle, 4inch roundhouse swinger. Do a DC conversion and put some HID headlights on it. 21x12x8 skat trak haulers with 22x8x10 fronts. Oh wait, thats what i am building :biggrin:That will get you the motor.
I'll take any ideas, even if they are over the budget. Like always, I'll have to make my choices of what to do now and what later.
I really like the setup you sugested, just a couple of questions.
why did you pick the 39mm PWK, why not 35s? how much compression are you planning for?
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OK...let's backup just a little...
What is your budget overall, is the question. We can give you all the recommendations in the world, but if you're looking at spending 2k and we're piling up 8K worth of mods, it's kind of pointless......
The starting point will be a stock banshee in good shape (no repair needed) and 4-5K
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OK, I am getting the idea on the engine. Definetly a 4 mil either stoock cylinders with agresive dune port or a cleaned up cub.
On the lights, where can I get nice HID or PIA headlights? how much lights can I use with the stock stator?
I am thinking of adding one or two flood headlight under the bumper, just like a sand rail, what do you think?
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I built MY ultimate dune bike this past summer. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...c=86764&hl=
I went with 4 mill crank, aggressive dune port, T5's, 33 pwk's, bumped the timing, dual k&n's etc.
+2+1 A-Arms, and a +4 Swinger. I have works shocks up front, and had TCS rebuild my rear shock.
I have haulers, and mohawks on it now, but I think I am going back to sand skate II's and the wider STU fronts for next season. Haulers are better on the hill, but I liked the SS II's better in the dunes.
What exactly did you do with the timming? cool head?
For the rear tires I was thinking of the Skat Trak Edge, how are they compared with the SSII?
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I thought the Cubs were intended for drags, and therefore for top end, and when dunning I think you are looking for for bottom/mid range power.
I am surprised nobody has mentioned the 2 into 1 intake, I think it helps the bottom end and throtle response. Would you guys consider it as a must for a dunner?
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Sure, what's the point in wasting bores in your cylinders. And big bore kits are a waste of money IMO. You're not looking for max HP i don't think just something that will work damn good in the dunes.
Thank you for your advice and excuse my next dumb question, but, what's the most significant benefit out of a stroker? torque? bottom end?
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I'd just do a 4mil dune ported stock cyl. motor w/ all the goodies.
stock bore?
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Any one else?
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And what, exactly, is wrong with your Banshee? Your'Shee is Bad-Ass! Matter of fact, if you get to building your ultimate Shee, I'll lighten the load by buying your SE.... :cool:
There is nothing wrong with it, I love it. And I love its stock look. I know if I change suspension, headlights and cut the fenders it will loose the look. That's why I am thinking of building a new one.
But as you should know, everything is on sale. If you are interesdet PM me.
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Hey guys I need all your dunning experience here, I want to build a banshee exclusively for dunning at Glamis. 120% dunes.
I you were to start with a fresh stock and well cared banshee, what your preferences would be in:
- Engine (include porting shop)
- carbs
- intake
- pipes
- head / domes
- clutch
- sand tires
- suspension
- swing arm
- headlights (I love nightdunning)
- misc. mods
Thank you guys
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This is my dune ride, mods listed in signature. the pic is old and doesn't show the 2 into 1 carb setup.
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does that cdi box really work?
Yes it does, increases the spark energy and I think the spark itself lasts longer
If you really want more power Get it ported, hands down this will give you more power than any other MOD. Get it ported and you have a whole new bike!I agree 100%, do you remember the feeling when you went from stock pipes to performance pipes? same feeling when you get your cylinders ported.
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when you screw out your airscrews does it make the engine run leaner or richer? Mine are at 2 screws out but i heared 1 1/2 was right. Just want to make sure im not running it to lean by being 2 screws out....thanks
It is call "Air screw" because when you "open" (counter clockwise) lets more air go through making the mixture leaner.
Thinking this way makes me remember when I'm adjusting it. I hope it helps you too.
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What carb's are you using right now?
smaller domes, 19cc or even 18cc will give you better throtle response by sacrifycing a litle top speed ($80)
Dyna CDI box, you will need to rejet with a few sizes larger for this mod. ($300)
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Thanks for giving me a much clearer idea of what I'd be looking at. I'm really starting to think maybe this isn't the best idea. That sounds like much more work than I was originally expecting.
I love seeing banshees with street bike engines. Don't loose the initiative and if budget is not a problem get a nice engine and put it in your banshee frame.
JUST DI IT ! ! :beer:
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Hey guys here are the atmospheric pressure for differet altitudes
Sea level - 14.7 psi
1000 ft - 14.2 psi
2000 ft - 13.7 psi
3000 ft - 13.2 psi
4000 ft - 12.7 psi
5000 ft - 12.2 psi
From this list you can assume that Every 1000 ft atmospheric pressure drops 0.5 psi or .0005 psi/ft
So if yo want to know your local atmospheric pressure to the decimal point you can use this formula:
P_atm = 14.7 - (Alt * 0.0005)
P_atm: Atmospheric pressure in psi
Alt: Altitude in feet
For 1490 ft your atmospheric pressure would be 13.95 psi
As a disclaimer: This calcluations ar from from the book, actual atmospheric pressure can be differet, usually higher, due to weather conditions, temperature, humidity, etc. This calculations are conservative, that means you will always be on the safe side by assuming lower atmospheric pressure your CR will be higher
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I know Trinity makes one.
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Still man, your theory is flawed.. I much rather have a good compression tester that I use once a year rather than a "good" set of wrenches I use a dozen times a year.. Wanna know why? I bend a shitty wrench by putting to much torque on it, I spend a few bucks and buy another shitty wrench(which even with some of my habor fright, its never happened).. I buy a shitty compression tester that gives me flawed readings and I end up thinking my motor is good to go with X octane and come to find out it wasn't. Then Iam out a top end.. Out of ANY of the tools when dealing with a banshee I believe the compression tester is the most important one to spend the bigger bucks on. A close second is a good torque wrench, then leak down.. You all can skimp on this shit and buy fancy wrenches if you want.. But a wrench isn't gonna accurately tell you weather your due for a new top end or the octane your running for your setup is sufficiant..
RIPPEN
Pessure tester and torque wrench are very useful tools, I did't have any of those tools when bulding my own engine, I used my friend's, and I have not needed them in two years.
The guy who started the topic is not building a monster bahsee or running a dragster or a cuby. I'm trying to save te guy some bucks that he may need for latter mods.
By looking at the pic in your sig I can tell you have spent a lot of time and effort into your shee, and looks like you have been on this bussines for a long time. And I have a looooot of respect for you guys how have a lot of experience cause you help us save money and have fun with our toys not only when riding but when fixing. All I want to do is follow that trend and save our friend some money.
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elevation is 1490 and both sites I went to said that the atm was 30.1 does that sound right?
It sounds like they are using different units than psi, maybe inHg (inches of mercury) google fo a pressure convertion table, atmosperic pressure around your altitude should be around 14.5 to 13.5 psi thats for sure
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getting a new set of 19cc. So is this wrong? 91+91+115+115=412 divide by 4 = 103
Would that give you a guess at octane?
EDIT I see you already said that is wrong sorry. So why do reople run 50/50 mix?
I am not saying is wrong to run 50/50, I am just saying that does not fix detonation problems.
Fuel has the property of containing energy (cant remember the name), race fuel contains more energy than pump gas. if you mix them you will get more power than just pump gas.
with 19cc domes at sea level will get you 183 psi (www.nossmachine.com) therefore 12.6:1 CR
I would use not less than 110 octane, but no matter where you get your fuel, always ask if it is ok for your 12.6:1 CR
Make sure the fuel is not oxigenated, that will require you to change the jetting
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I guess I see it differently, that's all. Investing a couple hundred dollars in rarely used tools is a small price to pay when dealing with multi-thousand dollar toys.
I do understand your point of view, though... :beer:
And don't get me wrong, i LOOOOOOOOOVE new tools and gadgets
:beer:
PWK 39 single carb
in Jetting & Exhaust Forum
Posted
Hey guys, I am back with the same banshee, same setup, same riding conditions, the only diference is the ambient temperature, is getting seriously hot and the temperature when riding gets up to 100F, yes that is very hot.
Based on what worked fine on the 70F setup (50 pilot, 195 main, DGH needle with clip on 2nd notch), What pilot, main, needle and clip position would you recomend for 100F?
Snop I know you have the right answer for this, I hope you can help me again with the single carb set up.
Thank you all