racer
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Posts posted by racer
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Welcome to 2004. If you're lucky you can sell your house now before the market shits on your face.
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Dan Hull at A&S?
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Climbanyhill is correct, BJ's require less maintenance, and are quieter.
However, this does not mean that they cannot fail like the above picture. The only way to prevent that would be to-
1) place the heim in double shear, capturing it.
2) using a safety washer over the head of the bolt.
The benefits of a heim over a BJ come in, to me, these three areas-
1) double shear possiblities
2) off the shelf replaceable, since you're just using a bolt there are no tapers to match
3) more articulation when used in combination with a hi-mis spacer
Uniballs are tougher heims. They, unlike the other two, require a welded-in cup, so no adjustments there. On the flip side, the cup is reusable, you only replace the bearing itself.
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A new spring would be the right choice. If you can find the spring rates available, do some math, you might have the right setup for it to work.
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Also, you could patch the hole and then blow out the dent. It requires a little air pressure and some heat.
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Pull the hose off the 'tee', aim it towards not you. Open petcock to 'res'.
PS, a shot of air in the vent line will decrease your drain time.
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Just need a TIG, wonder why no one would do it?
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You're saying that when you start it, the tires turn in a direction other than forward?
Knowing the starter, I don't think that's possible.
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So you're after an electronic cutting break? Sweet.
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it really comes down to the cross hatch. you could get a more coarse cross hatch which you have to be carefull not to make the rings cut too fast, or you can get the newer finer crosshatch, in which case, you get in your heat cycle to torque the head, and then go strait to plug chops, to verify the jetting isn't doing harm, and to steat the ringsto the best possible seal while they are still realitively sharp enough. the hard loading will press the rings into the cylinder with more pressure.
This is a very good reply.
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Well, his name does include UAE . . .
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What's the point of this, corrosion issues?
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I am tempted to tear the whole engine apart and check everything over the winter.
Not a bad idea. I used to do mine every winter, not so much anymore.
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Too bad they don't make them anymore, otherwise you could get a sweet crate from the yami dealer.
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Holds extra power bands too.
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First off dont measure with a caliper. Use a mic and a snap gauge or dial bore gauge.
Not many people have, or even know of, snap gauges. Besides- he's not boring, just giving some data.
Pitts, I guess that's possible. What are you going to do about this situation?
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What are your plans for cleaning up the cylinders every time you adjust the timing?
Flex hone + drill press?
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Post a pic please.
Otherwise:
1) Mill
2) Lathe
3) ??????
4) Profit
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i could send them off be out say 450 bucks and have some awesome jugs, or i could do them my self spend probaly that much in tools and alot of time porting them but i will have learned alot about portng and how they flow and all that.
That is excellent. . . right up until you make your intake divider a little too thin and it relieves itself into your cylinder head.
If you're gonna do it take it slow, slow, slow.
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Boring the holes before having the pistons in hand is asking for a problem. Holding proper tolerance here will make a large difference in engine life...
Ya, shaft priority 'n shit.
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.. .28 mm clearance instead of .05mm.
Yikes.
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Your best bet is to take it to a shop and get it bored and have them tell you what they bored it to.
Ass backards.
Measure the bore, determine amount of material to be removed, then order pistons. When pistons arrive mic them, and bore accordingly.
Much tighter tolerances can be held this way, but it takes a little more time.
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So if your building a drag car then you would weld and regrind your own camshat so you could say you built it your self? Or would you buy one that is already machined.
Psssh, you don't own a cam grinder? Some mechanic you are.
Upgrades?
in General Banshee Discussion
Posted
YFZ450 shocks and a reworked rear would offer a pretty cost effective benefit.