MILO
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Posts posted by MILO
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most trails have muddy spots here in pa too, at least where i'm at. never had any trouble with that though. but it's always a good idea to clean the carbs really good after getting it all mudded up. at least they'll be 100% clean when you head out and less likely to hang up.
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rub some 'tussin on it
haven't heard that one for a while. could be a collar bone or seperated shoulder also. shoulder injuries can be a real bitch, and come back to haunt you later on. best to get it checked out now or it will catch up with you later.
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if you only have 95psi in each cylinder then you DEFINATELY are in for a rebuild! It will restart easier because of the heat that is still in the pistons adn rings....they swell a little with heat and help seal the compression....but not much. Anythiing less than 110 and she's gonna run real sluggish and be a pain to start. If you take about a teaspoon of oil and put it down the sparkplug hole and do a compression test right away it should read with more compression....this is another way to test that it is just in need of a rebuild.
Was the plastic piece semi circular and white? if so it gets a splash guard that gets put in the carb UNDER the main jet... ie you have to put it in place and then the main jet screws into its hole holdng the plastic piece in. I've seen the bikes run without them....however you should put them back in.....it helps for the splashing and also spaces the main jets out to the correct distance from the carb sorta like a washer.
Id suggest sendign your jugs out to a site-sponsor as they eat sleep and breathe these bikes.......and they have all the stuff you need on their shelves and can get you the rebuild kits WAY cheaper than you could at most local shops...
Jereme
+1
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The cold starting issue could be completely seperate from the mid range bog. Make sure the carb bowl with the 'starter jet' is in the left side carb and that the choke tube/crossover tube is on between the carbs. Jetting always starts with the mains. If you've done a plug chop and have the mains dialed, great. If not do that first then move on to the needle & pilot circuits. If the midrange still has a bog raise the clip a notch at a time to see if it smooths out. If you still have issues, the pilot and air screws may need adjusted.
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Yep, start with the mains and do a plug chop. Once you get the mains right, then move on to the needle and pilot circuits.
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Herr Jugs gets another vote from me. Not that I would not recommend FAST either because I've heard nothing but good things about their work also. I sent mine to Kevin and have 0 regrets.
I mostly ride trails too and he did an aggressive trail /dune port on mine. I have a 4 mil long rod stroker, custom cut 20cc domes in NOSS head, + 5 timing, .020 over, v3's, pro flow filter with no lid, and PC pipes. It is an absolute beast in the woods and trails. 110 gas is a bit pricey though.
Call either Jeff or Kevin, tell them what you're looking for and they'll hook you up with the best port for your riding style.
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Take it apart and clean them again and check the float height. Use some carb & choke cleaner, and remove the jets and use compressed air to clean them out.
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Before ripping it down, I would contact the guy you bought it from and see if you can get some details from him.
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It's most likely in the carbs. Pull them off but take notice to a few things as you do it. When you pull the slides out make sure that the cut out side is facing toward the back. That lets air flow through at 0 throttle for idling and can affect starting also. There should be a crossover tube between the carbs. It's just a small piece of rubber hose near the top of the carb bodies. If it's missing you'll have starting issues. When you pull the bowls off of the carbs to clean them, youll notice one of them has a small jet in the bottom of a 'tube' that's molded into the body of the bowl. That is the 'starter jet' and it has to be in the left side carb or you will have trouble with cold starts. Otherwise, clean them thoroughly and be sure to reinstall as listed above. And make sure your slides are synced when you put them back in. If you still have issues with cold starts do the other basics - new plugs, clean filter, fresh gas etc. If you still have issues, check your compression. If you're much below 110 you may be in for a top end.
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Hi I'm not sure if this is where I should be posting but I'll give it a shot. I'm looking to have my motor converted to a 4mil long rod setup with dune ported cylinders and cases matched. Does anyone know of a good reputable builder that loves in Michigan. I live in Roseville and and would like to find someone near me. I've found a few places but haven't heard a whole lot about them. I just don't what to spend all this money on a motor that's being built in someones garage that doesn't know what their doing and end up with a bad running motor or worst it blows up. Let me know if you guys know of anyone in the area.
Thanks
Not in your area, but it's something that is well worth sending away to a reputable shop. I sent mine to Herr Juggs Racing. Quick turnaround and very helpful over the phone for any questions or set up issues. Give Kevin Herr a call, you won't regret it.
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i put the pro design impeller in my shee several years ago and it's holding up great. whichever you pick will should be fine, just don't go back to the stocker. they are notorious for disintegrating, blowing out the seal, and leaking coolant into the tranny, which reeks havoc on your clutch.
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hmmm, interesting. thanks for the advice snop. i'm not going to switch it out now but the next time I'm due to I'll look into that.
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you sure you don't have the slides backwards or flipped?
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^^^+2
^^^ + 3
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maybe next season. it depends on if i get another R1 or even an R6 for a track bike instead. playing in the dirt is great but dragging knees in road racing is hellish fun too. decisions, decisions.
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they don't seem to be really popular but I've had Pure Sport Bandits on mine for a few years. they are a really tough tire & work awesome in the woods, mud, or whatever. i really like them for an all purpose trail tire.
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I run 370-380's in my 28mm mikuni tm's with pods at sea level.
Milo, you could benefit from a better reed setup.
Ya got my attention bud. What kind of set up?
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Nice vid's loco, and congrat's bud.
Ever hear of Beaverdale, Pa amateur outlaw hill climb? I'm less than an hour away and have cosidered getting in on this. Here's a pic & some spec's, what do ya think?
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Love the seat, love the look, everything just has that flow to it.
I agree.
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370's - that's what Shee likes.
bored .020" over,Hot Rods 4 mil long rod stroker crank w/wiseco 795's, custom cut stroker domes in Noss head, HJR aggressive trail port, +5 timing advance, V3's, open air box w/ Pro Design foam filters, Pro Circuit pipes. Running Sunoco 110 race gas (std purple).
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Im using this with a smaller diameter head. Once I push it into the hole, I am gonna cut the bottom off below the plastics.
pic no worky.
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Yeah, unless it's something that would restrict air flow through the pipes, keep'm & paint them or tolerate the dings & rust. Sink the $$ into other mod's instead.
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i have pro circuits and my elevation is at 1500' i run 280 mains and 27.5 piliots.
I have Pro Circuits & my elevation is about 1250'. I run 370 mains & stock pilots. It all depends on what other mods you have. You really do have to compare apples to apples when dealing with jetting. Plus every bike is a little different & needs custom tuned. That's why there is no magic #'s for jetting. Like Snop said, you need to establish a baseline & tweek it as needed.
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the choke basically changes the air/fuel ratio to provide a ratio that's rich on the fuel side for starting. so if it gets better at idle by pulling out the choke, that means that you are on the lean side (more air than fuel) on the pilot circuit. you either need to turn in your air screws or go with a bigger pilot. you should be able to adjust the circuit with the air screws being between 1 & 2 turns out, going 1/4 turn at a time for adjustment. anything less than 1 and you'll need a bigger pilot, anything more than 2 and you'll need a smaller pilot. you can clean it up some by doing this but the pilot circuit really should be the last to play with. everything may change slightly after you dial in the mains & needle, which should be done first.
Old Guy
in General Banshee Discussion
Posted
I'm 36, but I can only hope that I can still rip it up on a Banshee when I'm retired.