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Help me! my clutch has seized!


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well today was my first day out on my motor setup. after much frustration with the cool head, i finished the build and took it for a short spin, let my second pair of hands also try it and we were both impressed with the results. and then. i hop back on it to validate my success and started down the road. idk what i did exactly but the clutch started softening untill there was almost no resistance.i check the cable and its was fine. then the clutch stopped working all together. i took the lockup off to try to see if i could free it up and nop........ nothing.

 

what should i do.

 

and then my friend goes, you have coolant leaking out the nut right here and i tryed to tighten it down and it would. i though the stud was stripped but to my surprise the whole stud pull out of the case taking the threads with it.

 

come on guys help me out here! i need some ideas!

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The clutch ball, rod and or actuator welded together. It depends on how bad it is. Most times you have to split the cases with out removing the cylinders to get the transmission out. If the rod is mushroomed then you have to grind it to get it out of the transmission shaft. I have done two in the last month. You have to removed flywheel, stator, clutch assembly then bolts and nuts. The using a rubber hammer split the cases.

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The clutch ball, rod and or actuator welded together. It depends on how bad it is. Most times you have to split the cases with out removing the cylinders to get the transmission out. If the rod is mushroomed then you have to grind it to get it out of the transmission shaft. I have done two in the last month. You have to removed flywheel, stator, clutch assembly then bolts and nuts. The using a rubber hammer split the cases.

 

 

ok so lets say they arnt fully welded, can i replace them without splitting the case? and how did this happen? is this a result of a lock up clutch?

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its not the result of having a lock up..its just mostly can happen because you had the cable adjusted to tight which caused constant presure on the components, or someone held the clutch in for to long coasting, or reving the motor

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You can take off the clutch cover, and then pressure plate and check it. In the middle of your clutch basket behind the plate, you will see the adjuster. The rod and ball set behind this. Here is where you will need to troubleshoot.

 

1, Make sure the bolt just did not back off.

2, Pull it out, and then use a magnet to pull the ball and rod out.

3, It can weld 3 ways. The ball and rod comes out welded to the adjuster (the lucky way). The ball comes out, but the rod wont (b/c it is mushroomed on the other end). Or you can not get shit to come out (the ball is stuck to the rod, and the rod is stuck inside).

 

Lets hope that they all come out. Easy fixed, just replace it all and add a pancake bearing. If not, you have to flip the motor, split the case, lift the other end of the clutch shaft up (I dont know the tech name of this shaft), pull the mushroomed rod out the other end.

 

PICS...

What you hope to find, all welded together and pulls out. (pics of the one I fixed)

rodandshaft003.jpg

 

What you don't want to find, (pics from LS1Inferno).

S5001537.jpg

S5001536.jpg

 

Links....

Good post to read

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...pancake+bearing

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word! you mean to tell me my 350 twin has a secret double life as a welder! impressive. im hoping i have the easy fix, i bought the pancake bearing and i also ordered a keval barnett dirt digger clutch. am i missing anything? (other that maybe a new rod) do i use the ball bearing if my shee uses a pancake bearing?

Edited by NickisGod
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Yeah, his did the EXACT same thing. One trip around the block, and the lever went limp. We also noticed it jumped really bad when putting it in gear before hand. But it had slack and play so it was wierd.

 

The same ball works, unless it is damaged. The Cascade pancake is the easiest to adjust IMO. That can be tricky to. Do a search on pancake, you will see some good post.

 

You will need a clutch cover gasket. We also replaced the water pump seal and bearing, the o-ring on the water tube, and added a modded shift star. Just b/c we had the cover off. It is not necessary.

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the water pump seal is only 15minutes used since install, and i was not able to get at my shift star before i put my quick change clutch cover on. i should be able to pull my window off and and fix the problem, and ya i guess ill do a search on how to install it. btw i bought a boss clutch saver

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Split the motor and fix the clutch problem. Get a manual and it is easy.

 

I would be careful giving out advice to "split the motor and fix the problem". Like the other guys pointed out, there's a VERY good chance that the motor does not need the cases opened up. The two times I did this job, both times I got the parts out with the magnet trick.

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