juan_carlos__007

I found some compression to elevation charts on google just want to make sure my Shee compression is ok. It is at 108PSI hot and 110 PSI cold an elevation is at 3445'? If it is, would it be a good idea to increase compression to 120PSI by decreasing one dome size down so when I ever go to the beach automatically increases to 140PSI instead of 130PSI and still be safe running 91octane? Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

No, it the right side the one thats lean. And yes they are stock carbs. I understand how a float thats not allowing fuel to fill up the bowls, but I'm very certain that the float levels are correct I set both the same with a caliper. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

I think I'm having a related problem with the choke. My banshee is running lean on the right and rich on the left, according to left spark plug looking toasty brown and the right noticeably whiter than that. Also the right pipe gets way hotter than left. I adjusted both screws half a turn in to evade the lean. Could it be due to bad choke assembly or bad choke o-ring? Both carbs have identical setup: same main and pilot jets, synced, no air leaks found anywhere, no clogged jets, and air screws adjusted the same amount. Yeah I know I'm reviving an old thread, but just evading people to give shit being so anal about other creating new threads to ask for help. Plus it helps keep all the info in a single thread. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

True thanks for opening my eyes. I thought for some reason +4mil stroker would be the same dome setup as just long rod. Stroker 4mil piston comes out the deck higher. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Ok I need help from a knowledgeable engine builder. I need dome size for my 370LR and be able to run 91 octane fuel. Here is the list of what it has been done to it: -Ported to be able to run blaster pistons, also air flow -Blaster pistons -Adjustable timing plate advanced +4 -fmf pipes -K&N pods -Vforce3 reed valves -Stock head, seemed milled, but don't remember if dome was machined to change angle for blaster pistons. -Stock carbs with proper jetting, don't remember main jet size. -Elevation is between 2500 and 3500 if it matters 3000 I rebuilt the top end with new rings etc about a year ago, and no the cylinders where not worn out. I did get specs before putting it together, but still have low compression like 90 PSI don't remember exactly how much but somewhere in that ballpark. It turns on and runs very well but figured out it will run way better with proper compression setup. Before I used autozone compression tester. Just ordered an Innova one to get more accurate readings, but it i'll be a week till it gets here. Also did leak down test and fail before rebuild but not after. I've read that 23.3cc is the stock dome size for the stock bore 64mm and stroke 54mm which has a compression ratio of 6.5:1 and static compression of 140PSI. I've been trying to relate this info into my 370LR or more like a 369LR in order to get the right dome size, but I got stuck where I need the blaster piston crown dome volume for the right squish measurement. There's a lot of of geometry involved, and hard to relate since also the blaster pistons have different squish angle than the banshee pistons. I'm looking at the NOSS head domes http://nossmachine.com/795-long-rod-stroker-dome-set/ that are ready for blaster angled pistons, just confused on which ones to choose. It's weird how the smallest dome size is 19cc, maybe this setup does not require that small of dome, but still stroke is 54mm? Also If I decide to bore in future this head wont go larger than 66mm? I though about taking the heads to a machine shop, but for spending some money in a head that will have thinner walls and not last I prefer an aftermarket head, yeah there's the o-ring issue, but I'm willing to take a risk on that. The closest info I've found is on macdizzy website, "I cut the domes so the trapped volume at TDC was 14.2 cc's. That calculates out to a 14:1 compression ratio. The static compression is estimated to be 170 PSI at sea level. The estimated power output is 69 HP at 8500 RPM.". Rudy kurts setup info is nowhere to be found, and to contact him if way probably harder, found several outdated websites with his phone number, but it does not work and he supposedly has lived in Vegas and later on some CA city. It seems like for now my only way out is to measure static compression with new tester, than take head off, bolt plexy glass with some sort of sealant and obtain cc's from there relate new dome size since I've noticed that for every CC decrease the static compression increases by 10PSI. Another thin is that I don't know if the squish angle matters and if it was changed in the stock head that it has in right now. I don't feel like wasting money and time on trial and error on different size domes. Could be as easy as mickey mouse engineering as 347.26cc to 369.3cc (350 to 370) is equal to 1.063 times larger and multiply that number of stock dome size of 23.3cc equals new dome size of 24.77cc? Sorry about the overwhelming info, just trying to get somewhere here. Thanks in advanced. Help from real engine builder only would be appreciated, and questions from beginners are welcome.

On the long road do you prefer to do maintenance work only on the carburetors or the whole top end? Running cylinder with little gas/oil does extensive damage on the top end, also I encounter that almost dry bowls, jets, etc are easier to get clogged and get hardened than moist ones. Even on a regular 4 stroke engine running with less gas than needed 14.7 air to fuel ratio to be exactly overheats the engine, and also pre-ignites. That's why when banshees are running low on fuel they start sounding louder, leaner engines run stronger but get destroyed. In the short run it shouldn't do that much damage, I used to do the same thing but we learn from our mistakes.

OEM even the best builders use them. Only problem is make sure it is in fact the ignition coil and not something else like carbs. Do a leakdown test, compression test, electrical troubleshooting. In my case my banshee's timing plate had been modified and for some reason it shifted or something, so replaced it with ebay timing plate +4 and it ran perfect after that. OEM ignition coils are not easy and not cheap when you do come accross one. A little over $100 new on ebay. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

It walmart's ok!? Jajajaja I'll follow your advice and see what'd really going on. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Hi, I'm wondering maybe experts on banshee ignition coils can help me. Followed a tutorial on ebay from texas banshee on how to check ignition coil with a volt meter. Checked mine and it displayed .7 ohms on primary coils instead of being within .28-.38 ohms. Decided to purchase a good one, my options were nology, dynatek, and oem. While doing some research found even the most experienced banshee builders stick with oem coils. Ordered a brand new one from ebay for $100 shipped. The new one also shows .7 ohms. Is it possible I'm checking it wrong? My General Electric cheap volt meter sucks? Is the new coil also bad as it shows some weird goo on the spark plug wires? Or could it be that my original coil did not need replacement? Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

I'm looking for black uncut front plastics for sale. Preferable local in or near Tucson AZ, because I'm in no hurry and don't see the point paying for shipping. If anybody interested, I can trade black cut for uncut ones plus cash.

Ok took long, but I did a leak down test and found leaks in between the cylinders on the bottom. upon disassemble found out in fact it had blaster 66 pistons and the cylinders were bored and ported. To make the long story short I rebuild the top end with new wiseco 66 blaster rings, new gaskets, and silicone since the port job was too close to the edge where they were leaking. Now it has power, lots of power but until it hits the power band really high. Is this due because of the porting done or jetting on carbs? In example going up a hill it does not have power I can kind of hear the engine detonating without power until the power band is reach then it wants to tear the hill off. Tomorrow I will do another leakdown test.

I feel confident at taking the motor apart, I've done two car engines and they have been running for years now one is my 99 grand cherokee daily driver, but followed manuals step by step. I wanna tackle this project myself as if everything goes good I learn a new thing and if it goes wrong well I can learn from my mistakes. The guy never told me anything about being ported. So even if it was a bad long rod 370 it shouldn't be 80 psi on the compression? I guess I'm gonna buy a tester since is a pretty good way to check future engines and give it a second try. Leak test I'll have to read more on how to do that but still low compression is my primary worry. I think the old owner told me something about that engine having more lives left in it with sleeves. Guess gotta start getting my hands dirty with this engine and get to know whats really inside and read a bit more of thatrudy kurtz build

Don't know where to begin, but to make a long story short I'm new to banshees which are highly modifiable and need your guys' advice. I have a a banshee which I bought from a guy who said it was a long rod 370 with blaster pistons. I have done some research and I am overwhelmed with all the info, like spacers under and top cylinders or porting for timing, also either to go with longer rods or longer crankshaft which both affect angle for timing etc. I checked the compression with a tool loan service from autozone it was in good shape, but it read 80 psi at wide open throttle, and forty kicks with both spark plugs removed. Banshee runs but I'm noticing a lot of bogging and yes tors is removed along with e brake cables, and also have cleaned the carburetors which had a 340 or 370 main jet I don't remember clearly also have plaid with needles going up and down many times. So I wanna just fix the issue and restore power on a budget, not go big with custom cylinder or anything like that. If what the old owner said is true and the pistons are blaster 66.00 bore and cylinders, What I've been thinking in doing is the following options: 1. Check cylinders for imperfections such as scrapes, and uneven 66.00 bore top to bottom, also check piston rings for correct gaping and if it's just the rings replace them, and put everything back together. 2. If cylinders need to be bored 66.25 can I just install blaster pistons that size with new rings and get away with it? Cause I believe in my research I've read something about longer rods affect timing and wont work with banshee pistons and also different domes installed on the head which I' believe is stock since it has a yamaha symbol on top, but with modified domes? 3. Use same pistons with new rings, with cylinders 65.50 ready to be bored to 66.00 from someone selling in the bansheehq community I have run out of ideas for the budget build, as always thanks for the good talk in here.

And I'm still waiting on that regular basis check up. Jajaja SOLD by the way to a very happy customer

Yes it does can only see them at night I guess it's a jetting or something, runs good.