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Posted

Just take it off, ive never "lubed" a head stud, i have put anti-seize on them b4 but chances are you wont have any problems getting them off in the future so eitherway your cool. Check your compression b4 and after just cause, torque them to the required amount in the correct order.... :thumbsup:

Posted (edited)

Yeah, just clean them off good with a brass bristle brush and use some anti-seize. You

should be good. When you torque them back up to it in a figure-8 pattern working from

the inside bolts out, in three stages. 10-15-20 ft lbs. Warm it up to operating temp and

re-check-torque. Also spring for a new gasket if its the stock head. Have fun...

Edited by mdhc500
Posted
Oh also what psi should i be at??

 

my bike: 2 sizes over stock bore, cool head, +4 timing, t5's, silencers, k&n filter pods, 330 mains

 

 

depends on your elevation and the size of the domes in the head.

Posted
Check out this link. Scroll down towards the bottom. it gives you a chart stating around where your compression should be for your dome size and elevation.

 

http://www.nossmachine.com/banshee_heads.htm

 

 

Great link man thanks... Just curious, how do you guys check your compression? I bought this compression tester at harbor freight a while back and I haven't used it yet. I heard they were'nt very accurate but I had already bought it so oh well.

Posted

the reason some people apply lube to the head studs and nuts, is to reduce the friction between the stud threads and the nut studs, for a more accurate torqueing of the nuts. this is called "wet torque". some may apply the lube so the nut doesn't seize to the stud.

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