banshee bottom end

[csrmel]

the 2 stroke bottom end is painfully simple to take apart.

the first time you take it apart you are thinking that as soon as you open the cases all these springs and gears come flying out and shit and you never gonna get it back together. haha atleast that is what i thought the first time i did it. but when you get the case halves apart and you actually look at everything and how simple and uncomplex it is, you think man im supprised they manages to make a complete engine and trans with such little parts. it seems like there so little parts that it shouldnt even work.

 

in truth you dont even have to TOUCH the transmission. when you seperate the case halves, the trans gears and the shifter assembly stays exactly where it is, in the bottom of the case. there is basically nothing in the top part of the case except empty space , oh and the clutch lever. but thats painfully easy to take apart.

 

all you have to do for clutch work is remove the clutch basket. theres 4 little phillips head screws and 2 brackets behind the backet you have to remove. i dont even think you have to remove the kick start shaft. probably dont even need to remove the front sprocket or the shift lever.

[theshee]

There is nothing in the bottom end of a banshee... The tranny can only go in 1 way, like everybody is saying they are VERY simple. You dont have to take the front sproket off like csrmel said, but I would. I didnt one time and didnt get the shift seal back in and didnt know it. It was easy to fix, but made one hell of a mess when the clutch fluid went all over.

[bansheejoel]

thats a good thing to know because i did think there was stuff that would pop out and shit lol so its pretty easy to put a crank in then? can i split the cases or do i bring it somewhere to be done? thanks

[theshee]

You can do it yourself, get a clymer manual and go for it. Right here is the bottom end of a banshee.

 

[bansheejoel]

damn, that pic makes it look way to easy lol i just got a clymer manual on friday....can i split the cases? or does a shop have to do it? also how do i pull the gears off of the crank? thanks guys for all the help i appreciate it

[theshee]

You can do it....

 

You have to dis-assemble the clutch side, which is a simple job, take out a couple phillips screws and thats it. I would get a flywheel puller (like 15 bucks from FAST) to get the flywheel off so you can get the stator off. To get the gear off the crank you take the clutch gear out by taking the clutch out, and then taking the nut off the crank and grabbing the gear with your hand and jerking if off of the crank. Very easy stuff. if you take your time, and use common sense, you will have no problems doing it yourself. Call Jeff at FAST, and get new gaskets, some case sealer, and a flywheel puller and you should be good to go.

[csrmel]

if you deside to do it youreself we will help you. if you run into a problem, take a picture of the problem and post it up for someone to see. alot of guys on this forum have rebuild countless engines. i have done 2 myself. i know bigred has probably done dozens of engines. he could probably do them with his eyes blindfolded. so there is a good chance that someone has a solution to any problem you can possibly encounter. just go slow, keep things as clean as possible, and label parts and bolts and put them in ziplock bags.

[RZBansheeMan]

I live in Mt. Pleasant and would be willing to help if you need, but I think it is something you certainly could do yourself. These engines are very simple in design, maybe that's why Yamaha has used the same basic design since the 70's........ :biggrin:

[Lepew]

You said it has a rattle at idle, so my guess is you have some pistons that need to be replaced. Test the crank seals and if there ok, pull the top end and inspect it. If the is excessive clearence between the piston and cylinder that is probably your noise. While you have the top end off you can check the rod bearings similar to how the clymers manual suggests. If the rod bearings are ok and the crank seals tested ok, the crank is good to go, no need to split the cases. If you knew how much time was on the crank seals you could maybe skip that step.

 

Remember you need to KNOW what is wrong before you start replacing parts.

Edited January 21, 2008 by Lepew

[bansheejoel]

that could very well be because the shee only has around 90 psi in both cylinders and the guy i bought it from was the second owner and has never done any internal things to it, and said the original owner told him the engine was stock. i dont have any reason to not belive him, hell its a 96 with stock plastic, tires, and chain and sprokets he took damn good care of it....it looks better than half of the 2004's i see

[shee rips]

i can almost guarantee that the rattle you hear at idle is piston slap, if the bike is 12 years old on the same top end. id say your looking at new pistons and rings, and a hone or possibly bore to clean up the cylinders.

your crank is probably fine.