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Posted (edited)
Add a dab of RTV on the first few threads of each stud before screwing them in.

Finger tight, all the way down. No need to tighten them into the cylinders with a wrench...

 

Yes. there is no need to tighten the new ones.

Edited by duneloon
Posted
Add a dab of RTV on the first few threads of each stud before screwing them in.

Finger tight, all the way down. No need to tighten them into the cylinders with a wrench...

if his stockers are anything like mine where when i rebuilt it he wont get the studs in very far by hand. i had to use the nuts and a wrench to turn them down. i cant remember what the white crap is called that builds up but there was alot of it in the holes

Posted

the machine shop is cleaning them all up so im pretty sure theyll be in good shape and ill be able to screw them in pretty good by hand.. maybe ill snug them up a bit with a wrench.. what is RTV? glue? is there any other things like it that i can use that i can get at the stealership?

Posted
the machine shop is cleaning them all up so im pretty sure theyll be in good shape and ill be able to screw them in pretty good by hand.. maybe ill snug them up a bit with a wrench.. what is RTV? glue? is there any other things like it that i can use that i can get at the stealership?

if you can turn them in far enough you dont need to tighten them. they will pull against your bottom half and seal fine. i just couldnt turn the new studs so had to use the nuts. RTV is just a sealant. you can get it at any auto parts store. or sears for a few bucks

Posted
Add a dab of RTV on the first few threads of each stud before screwing them in.

Finger tight, all the way down. No need to tighten them into the cylinders with a wrench...

I would switch that RTV out for some stud/pin installation compound........ :geek:

Posted

If you are installing acorn nuts, make sure the studs are screwed down far enough to torque the nuts against the head; you do not want to torque the acorn nuts to the top of the stud. You also want enough length to accommodate the head, copper washers, and leave enough threads for the acorn nuts to grip...

 

Maybe torquing the nut to the stud would continue to screw the stud in and torque the head like a bolt...I have never had that happen and I am not sure if it is good or bad to do that...

 

I would switch that RTV out for some stud/pin installation compound........ :geek:

Are you talking about anti-seize compound? That is what I used...hope that is not causing problems. :ermm:

Posted
Are you talking about anti-seize compound? That is what I used...hope that is not causing problems. :ermm:

Anti-sieze isn't bad, but it's not what I was referring to. I was talking about a product that is similair to cylindrical sleeve and bearing lock, but in a paste form. It's something like a permanent loctite. Using the stuff is a good idea if you know what you're doing with stud installation and don't plan on removing and replacing the studs alot. :geek:

Posted
Anti-sieze isn't bad, but it's not what I was referring to. I was talking about a product that is similair to cylindrical sleeve and bearing lock, but in a paste form. It's something like a permanent loctite. Using the stuff is a good idea if you know what you're doing with stud installation and don't plan on removing and replacing the studs alot. :geek:

Good, I was hoping I would not have to get that stuff out of there... :turned:

Posted
Good, I was hoping I would not have to get that stuff out of there... :turned:

Yeah, that's the downside to anti-sieze. If you ever need to completely remove it to get clean metal to intsall another chemical, you pretty much cannnot get it all the way clean. :geek:

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