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Posted

Ok, so your main concern is the motor pitch is changing after riding a while corect? Is there anything you can think of thats happening or that your doing just before this happens? I actually have never really experienced something like that.

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Posted

It so hard to explain, it seems to idle a little rougher, and it almost sounds like a scratching sound its wierd i dont know where to start, it just doesnt make sense that it all of a sudden starts happening out of the blue. Im really going to have to take a look at it, i just dont know where to start.

Posted
Well im pretty sure it has nothing to do with overheating now. I rode it today and tried everything to heat it up fast never went above 210. But it still does it after awhile it starts sounding more deeper ( like airbox noise gets louder) and starts idling kind of rough, it doesnt feel like it loses power. I got so pissed i pinned it in neutral and held it there for about 5 seconds, i dont know what to do! Do banshees have rev limiters, do you think i could have hurt something holding it there for that long. Im stumped, im almost ready to take it to the stealership, but i think they will just say its running fine. About the only thing i havnt replaced is the reeds and the look perfect, no cracks etc. Could it be the tors system. Also i have a brand new stator set at 0 and a brand new coil with new wires and plugs. Engine is one year old has vitos crank and wiseco pistons bored 30 over

 

 

Banshee's do not have rev limiters as far as I know and Keeping it pinned will do not much harm but defently no good!! I don't recommend it.

Posted

The banshee stock cdi does have a rev limiter, but it is very high rpm.

 

Start with a compression test if the noise is coming from the cylinder or crank area of the motor.

Posted
Does anybody have an idea, i need help bad i have no clue what to do now? Could it be the reeds i never checked the gap would that do it. They looked fine in appearence

 

I am kinda wondering if you are having jetting problems and the noises you hear are just intake noise. A bike will fatten up or richen as it heats up. Drop your needle down or raise the clip one position to help lean the mid range. Also turn both air screws to 1.5 turns out by turning them in till seated then back out. You may need to set them out to 2.5 turns out. You tune the air screws to the best idle and throttle response right off idle. Put BRAND NEW plugs in and test jetting. You may need to drop the 190s depending on elevation. Also, take a look at that carb balance. Those slides need to open at exactly the same time or it will run like crap.

 

 

Might no be a bad idea to look at eh water impeller too to make sure it has not started melting. Cheap insurance.

 

 

Let me know.

 

 

Brandon

Posted
The banshee stock cdi does have a rev limiter, but it is very high rpm.

 

Start with a compression test if the noise is coming from the cylinder or crank area of the motor.

 

 

Oops,,,,,,My bad

Posted
The banshee stock cdi does have a rev limiter, but it is very high rpm.

 

Start with a compression test if the noise is coming from the cylinder or crank area of the motor.

 

I would do the compression test, and even a leak down.

 

I had an overheating issue for a while that sounds similair. I went through the whole cooling system, re-jetted a few times and still kept getting hot. It ended up being the head gasket. I had a small leak.

 

Good Luck

Posted (edited)
Ha, never had a gauge on any of my bikes, i mean i guess its cool to have, but like i said if you can feel the side of the cylinder without burning yourself like an exhaust pipe, your running fine, about your jetting, did you notice a power drop?? Your plugs sound to be fine, post a pic up if you want (at low speeds) - 1/4 throttle? I jet my bike more on heat than plugs personally, but i pull a plug to make sure its not terribly off atleast.. It will run hot if your lean or rich - so keep that in mind. I can put my hand on my cylinders for atleast 3 seconds comfortably, all day long.

 

Eric

you must have some oven mitt hands because i cant hold my hand on the cylinders at operating temp, not for 3 seconds anyway :shrug:

Edited by shee rips
Posted

Well i messed around with the carbs yesterday. The needle clip was at the very highest postiton towards the top. I moved it to the middle and that helped a ton. I picked up alot of power. It still breaks up and runs weird but i dont have the carbs perfectly synched. What is the best way to get them perfectly synched without the best tools.

Posted
Well i messed around with the carbs yesterday. The needle clip was at the very highest postiton towards the top. I moved it to the middle and that helped a ton. I picked up alot of power. It still breaks up and runs weird but i dont have the carbs perfectly synched. What is the best way to get them perfectly synched without the best tools.

 

 

Tune by sight and sound my son. Experienced tuners can get damn close without special tools on a twin. What I would recommend at this point is getting to the point that it sounds like crap and then test your stator and ignition coils. Also drop your plug gap to about .020 and if all this checks good, borrow a CDI and give it a try. Sounds like you may have a lazy one. This will cause a bike to act rich and you can fail a motor trying to tune around a bad CDI.

 

 

Brandon

Posted

Well i played around with it for awhile today, i gave it a compression test after i warmed it up and i have 120 psi in both cylinders. I swapt reeds with my buddy and it definetly runs better with different reeds but it did not fix my problem. I checked the spark and i am getting awesome spark on both sides. I cleaned and synched the carbs to the best of my ability and it is still doing it. I will borrow my buddys cdi box tommrow and give that a try. But im thinking it has to be something in the carbs, i just dont know what. It seems to run raspy just all of a sudden after riding it for awhile, and it idles rougher. Any more ideas would be great i have no idea where to start.

Posted

Well finally im 99% sure i know what is wrong with it. I rode it today until it started acting up and then i swapt cdi boxes with my buddy. His bike immediatly started running like crap. And mine seemed to be running much better. Mine still needs some fine tuning but i was wondering what cdi boxes i should be looking at. Are the srp ones any good or what are some other choices.

Posted
Any ideas on what cdis i have for an option. How are the srp ones?

 

 

 

Yeah, when you say it gets worse after riding or starts all of a sudden, that keys on electrical a bit. I have yet to find a CDI that is bulletproof so take your pic. All CDIs should be rubber mounted anyway and I feel Yamaha dropped the ball by not doing that. You need to uncouple the vibrations on the frame and the CDI chassis.

 

 

Brandon

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