Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Got a few problems. Just finished assembly and started it to break it in. It has 168 main 58 pilot was at 2 1/2 turns after it wouldn't idle imediatly I went to 3 1/2 then back to 2 1/2 and CEL needles middle clip. It wouldnt stay idoling and on its own and I had to keep blipping the throttle to keep it running if I got off the throttle it died. I was checking the sides of my cylinders to feel when they were warm I believe my temp guage hit 160. When i I let it die I noticed it was leaking out one of the Right carb vent hose. I also notice the left exhaust ( Fly wheel side)was hot while the Right was not as hot. Also durring this heat cycle I let it turn off a few times to try and adjust my thrttle cables few minutes at a time. Any ideas I'm kinda lost what to do right now. Could use some help first time at this whole engine building thing. oh its about 40 and 1000ft.

Posted

youre way too big on main jet and pilot. most pwk carbs run 158 to 162 mains and 42 to 48 pilots. drop your pilot to a 48 and main to a 162. that will get you idling. then from there do a plug check to get the mains dialed in.

 

as for the leaking, sounds like one of your floats needs adjusted a little bit to stop fuel flow when the bowls are full.

Posted

I figured I may be a bit big but why is one pipe hotter then the other. The smoke looks the same and feels the same on my hand. ? Also how do you adjust the idle on these things ( the black screw with the spring)? Also how do you check the float these things came with no directions.

Posted

couldnt tell you about the hotness of the pipes. that bike isnt gonna warm up idling tho. the pilot is way too big. idle is adjusted with the black knob with the spring. i wouldnt even touch that until you drop the pilots down to at least a 48. im sure there is a proper way to adjust floats but i just adjust it a very little bit until i dont have gas flowing out anymore. you do this with the tab that the seat(the thing that stops the fuel from filling the bowl) is connected to.

Posted

I am running pretty much the same set-up. I have 55 pilots in right now and they are just a little rich. gonna put in 50 or 52's and give them a try. My shee idles with the 55's though. I also have a 168 main...plug chop shows it to be a little rich but I'm not that far off maybe 1 or 2 sizes. Cel needle in center runs the best so far. The temp here is 40 @1450ft

Posted

I switched to a 50 pilot and a 165 main and adjusted the throttle cable to get it to idle. When ideling it seams to be ok but when I rev it in nuetral beyond 1/4 throttle it sounds like its breaking up. I took it for its first spin and I cant even get to the power band. Also the left pipe still gets hotter then the right. WHen I hit the gas beyond 1/4 throttle while riding and put my hand on the exhaust the right side dosent blow to hard and there is a lot of missing between the two. The left seams to be blowing harder when under load.

need some help.

Posted

I had to cut 3 coils off of the idle screw springs to make them go in far enough to idle. your shee will probaly take smaller mains then mine cause I have pod filters.

Posted

When you put this motor together, did you check:

 

Compression

Leak Down test

squish

Air gap on flywheel

Use fresh plugs

 

If the float is off/stuck and filling the cylinder...that pipe could be getting hotter from more gas/unburned fuel...

 

Plus...your jets are way huge.

 

You shouldn't have to use the adjustment cable holders on top of the carbs for idle adjustment, cut a couple loops off the idle screw spring and try again.

 

Screw the idle screw in with the carb off, and look down the throat to make sure it is actually raising the slide.

You only need to have the slide raised 1/8 inch or so from seated for most bikes to idle...

Posted

I did a leak down test it was fine but not a compression test.

I fixed the leaking carb but still runs like crap.

I also put in new plugs and there pretty wet.

 

So turning the idle screw in picks up the idle. I wondered about that

 

Didnt check the fly wheel gap its a ricky stator cant really adjust that pick up coil.

 

where should I try on the mains. I moved the needle leaner but it was crackling worse. So i went one richer and it was about same as before.

Posted
Didnt check the fly wheel gap its a ricky stator cant really adjust that pick up coil.

 

where should I try on the mains. I moved the needle leaner but it was crackling worse. So i went one richer and it was about same as before.

 

Odd...I have a Ricky Stator stator and pickup coil on a brand new plate...I can adjust mine as normal.

The bracket that holds the pickup coil on is slotted, just loosen the two small phillips heads and set it at .015 to .018.

 

CEL Needle, middle clip.

Put 45 pilots in there. Put 152 mains and try that.

Posted

ill have to check the spark and try the lower jets. I dont remember about the pickup coil adjustment but I thought I could adjust the stock one but not the ricky I'll check that after I try new jets. How can I tell if its a good spark. Oh I also tried switching the plugs and still the left head pipe got hotter. This is driving me crazy.

 

Is it possible to be to rich that you cant hit a powerband? when I go past quarter throttle it wollnt accelerat anymore and just holds that speed and sputters and pops alittle. All Rich charicteristics? I thought that was lean

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...