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Posted

I purchased an unused set of cub cylinders off of here. They are 65mm bore and 54mm stroke so it's just the 358cc setup for stock length rods also. Do these use the standard banshee pistons or the 795 series? I'm trying to stay as inexpensive as possible, so will my FMF fatties work halfway decent? I know they aren't the best for this setup. What about 28 pwk's bored to 30mm, are they way to small or would it still run pretty good? What head do you guys prefer best? I'm thinking of getting a Noss with smaller domes. I know compression helps build lots of torque and I have no problem running race gas.

 

Any reccomendations are appreciated.

Posted

It would be wise at this point to get your crank trued and welded for insurance.

Standard 65mm banshee pistons are what to use.

 

There are a ton of cub threads here. Yes, the bike will run and probably run pretty good with FMF pipes and 30mm carbs.

 

As long as you're aware you're choking this motor up...and it has a lot more potential...

Unless you got a STEAL on that cub, you would've probably been happier with a set of ported stock cylinders.

More compression and timing will help it run better, but...it will put that much more stress on the bottom end, too.

 

A cub is a commitment, no matter how you try to choke it up. Better clutch, longer swinger, etc....are all keys to make it run well....

Posted (edited)
I purchased an unused set of cub cylinders off of here. They are 65mm bore and 54mm stroke so it's just the 358cc setup for stock length rods also. Do these use the standard banshee pistons or the 795 series? I'm trying to stay as inexpensive as possible, so will my FMF fatties work halfway decent? I know they aren't the best for this setup. What about 28 pwk's bored to 30mm, are they way to small or would it still run pretty good? What head do you guys prefer best? I'm thinking of getting a Noss with smaller domes. I know compression helps build lots of torque and I have no problem running race gas.

 

Any reccomendations are appreciated.

795's are for a longrod crank... i want to say the series for the normal length is like 513 but im not 100% sure on that...as far a the pipes and carbs... you can run those but as you said they just arnt the best for that motor...i wouldnt waste a set of 29pwk to bore them out.. you might be able to find someone to trade you some 30's for your 28's.id diffenatly say get a coolhead and domes for that motor if your not against running race gas... either case get your crank trued and welded!

 

edit: thats posed to be 28pwk not 29 :)

Edited by Bansh-eman
Posted

dajogejr pretty much nailed it. Get your crank welded, get a longer swinger, get a lock up clutch (then the cover for it), and then a better set of pipes, like CPIs or shearers. I didnt know how much was involved in a cub until I started to get mine all lined up. There is a quite a bit to it.

Posted

What about using the 1000 streetbike clutch? What all is needed to use it. Also, my main use for this quad is quite a bit different than most of you I believe. I'm gonna be using it mainly for local flat track racing on fairground ovals. These are very high speed tracks, so I'll be running tall gearing.

 

Why do you say I'd probably be happier with a ported stock cylinder? I want a kick ass motor, but would just like to retain much of the stuff I allready have. Oh, and the cylinder was $600, never used.

Posted

If you are going to be running wide open on a track you are gonna have to ditch those pipes. They will kill your performance on the top end with a cub. Shearers are suppose to be one of the better top end pipes so I would go that route. I think you wanting to retain as much stuff as you want is why you would have been happier with a ported cylinder. With a cub there is lots of stuff to change, not so much with a set if ported cylinders. Main thing is you will never keep the front end down with out a longer swinger.

Posted
Why do you say I'd probably be happier with a ported stock cylinder? I want a kick ass motor, but would just like to retain much of the stuff I allready have. Oh, and the cylinder was $600, never used.

 

You answered your own question....the cub's power delivery is suited for dune and drag. You'd probably be better off selling that cylinder, which you could easily get 600 to 750 for and get stockers ported.

Posted

to run the 1000 fibers you dont need anything special... just order the number of fzr1000 fibers and get stock banshee steels and ruff the steels up a little bit with some fine grit papoer and install them as normal...

Posted
If your going to buy piped pm passionre hes selling shearers for 429.You better jump all over that if your looking for pipes

 

I agree...you will have a hard time touching a price like that on Shearer pipes.

Posted
What about using the 1000 streetbike clutch?

 

No matter what clutch you use it is only as good as the clamping force keeping it from slipping.The springs that you will need to use will be so stiff that you will hate it.Hense a lock up and you can use stock springs and it wont slip.

Posted

Yeah, the cubs were designed to take the stock configuration of parts with out having to buy a special head or other parts. If you use all the stock parts you have you will be killing the performance of that motor. You really need to set the motor up right before you use it.................. :thumbsup:

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