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Not getting any spark, annoyed as hell


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Hey gang, not sure if the forums are still as active as they were before FB came along but I figured I would try anyways, so here goes.

       I recently picked up a basket case for a good price and the PO said it had issues with spark, so being pretty ok with electrical stuff as I completely wired my XR650R and learned a great deal while doing. Anyways, I get the quad home and immediately start tinkering and I find the tors box still connected yet all the tors stuff was deleted. I unhooked it and bam it sparked. Then in the process of trying to start it and tune it I found a air leak in the crank seal and a few other issues so I tore down the engine and did a complete rebuild. I got it all back together and crank it over and I had it running and began tuning it, this is where my issues started. 

      I removed the carbs to install bigger pilots and it wouldn't start, so I began with checking for spark and there was none. I tested the coil and the primary tested within spec and I tested the secondary as the clymers says and nothing, I check resistance accross both boots and it was within the clymers specs, interesting. I then checked the stator and all of that, except the lighting coil, tested within spec. I then checked all wires for continuity and they all checked out (there is no key switch, so the red/black was tied directly into ground as it should be). I tested the kill switch and it didnt show continuity on or off, so I took it apart and cleaned the contacts, so that is fixed now. I then checked all my grounds and even added a grounding strap from a head stud to one of the coil mounts just to make sure the motor had a good chassis ground. I also checked the pickup gap and set it to .016".

    Heres where it gets interesting, I checked the voltage output from the stator ignition coil and it would read between 5-8 volts (between red and green at the stator plug) and then I read the voltage output from the CDI at the coil plugs and it only read .4 volts. After seeing that, and knowing that the capacitor within the CDI should be putting out more than its getting in I figured my CDI was shot. 

    After all that, I ordered a used OEM CDI, a used OEM Coil, and a new RS Stator (was checked by F.A.S.T. before shipment) and I hooked it all up and still no spark. The stator and coil checked good as far as Ohm readings go and I have yet to check the CDI voltage output to the coil. I also tore apart the harness and checked wires for damage and found the harness was in good shape and I rechecked and made sure to sand clean all the paint from chassis ground locations. 

 

Sorry for the long post but in an effort to be thorough and paint a complete picture of my issues it needed to be this long. Can anyone point me in the right direction on what to try next? Unfortunately I dont have anyway to swap parts from a known running banshee as I dont know anyone locally who has one. I am at my wits end trying to figure this thing out, and I find it highly unlikely that I received 1 or more DOA components.

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(there is no key switch, so the red/black was tied directly into ground as it should be).

2 things I'm unclear on from your post, but here...

To run, the Red/Black has to connected to the Black coming from the CDI and the White/Black cannot be connected to black.

Has to be that black wire, not just "ground" It's fine if the black wire shares chassis ground though.

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12 minutes ago, ZillaFreak said:

Have you checked continuity between all points?

Have you checked the flywheel? Make sure the pick up are clean and the pick up sensor is good?

Checked continuity on all wires, checked out good. Pick up read good as far as ohms go and is gapped properly. The flywheel still has a strong magnetic force and when kicked over shows voltage being output from the red and green wires into the CDI

 

4 minutes ago, hoppedupandcutdown said:

(there is no key switch, so the red/black was tied directly into ground as it should be).

2 things I'm unclear on from your post, but here...

To run, the Red/Black has to connected to the Black coming from the CDI and the White/Black cannot be connected to black.

Has to be that black wire, not just "ground" It's fine if the black wire shares chassis ground though.

Yes the red/black is soldered to the black wire. The black wire that went to the key switch is tied into the main ground wire that all the other grounds are tied into and grounded under the regulator to the chassis. The black/white is isolated to the kill switch and cdi, as I have removed all of the TORS wires, connectors, and components.

Edited by XXDEF1ANTXX
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Also check the pins in all connectors, they bend and don't make contact.

One more thing, super easy to push a spade on the coil and miss metal to metal, (with factory insulation on the terminal)

Also common to have the strands of wire worn to nothing  next to a terminal.

Also check that your new stator wire colors match the pins of the old harness. Seen 'em be put together wrong.

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1 minute ago, hoppedupandcutdown said:

Also check the pins in all connectors, they bend and don't make contact.

One more thing, super easy to push a spade on the coil and miss metal to metal, (with factory insulation on the terminal)

Also common to have the strands of wire worn to nothing  next to a terminal.

Also check that your new stator wire colors match the pins of the old harness. Seen 'em be put together wrong.

The wires not being in the proper connector location is something I never checked. I got the stator from F.A.S.T and they used it to trouble shoot a build so I know it works, as they wouldnt send me something that doesn't work.

 

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On 8/7/2018 at 11:56 AM, XXDEF1ANTXX said:

Checked continuity on all wires, checked out good. Pick up read good as far as ohms go and is gapped properly. The flywheel still has a strong magnetic force and when kicked over shows voltage being output from the red and green wires into the CDI

 

Yes the red/black is soldered to the black wire. The black wire that went to the key switch is tied into the main ground wire that all the other grounds are tied into and grounded under the regulator to the chassis. The black/white is isolated to the kill switch and cdi, as I have removed all of the TORS wires, connectors, and components.

I am talking about the pick up. Not sure what color the wires are as it has been a while, but check to make sure they are sending a signal out.

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  • 1 month later...
You wont get any reading really as it should just be a pulse. As long as you see the pulse it should be fine.

I'm watching this thread carefully as my banshee just quit on me while out on a trail. Haven't started ohming anything out yet, but what are you using to "see" the pulse? Just a volt meter and watching for some change on the readout before it goes back to zero?  

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

 

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On 10/5/2018 at 5:50 PM, muggzy said:

I'm watching this thread carefully as my banshee just quit on me while out on a trail. Haven't started ohming anything out yet, but what are you using to "see" the pulse? Just a volt meter and watching for some change on the readout before it goes back to zero?  

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

 

proper way to measure output of the stator is an oscilloscope. My issue was a ricky stator that read correctly ohm wise but was DOA somehow. I now have spark. Go figure

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On 10/5/2018 at 5:50 PM, muggzy said:

I'm watching this thread carefully as my banshee just quit on me while out on a trail. Haven't started ohming anything out yet, but what are you using to "see" the pulse? Just a volt meter and watching for some change on the readout before it goes back to zero?  

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

 

Go through all the little stuff and make sure everything is connected. basics first. I recently had a real idiot moment.  my bike started breaking under power  up top in the rpms as if the fly wheel or stator was going bad.  I was 2 hrs from home with no parts to swap out.  Thought it was jetting maybe, did slight adjustments just to rule out jetting, I was right it was electrical.  Then I lost spark completely.  Come to find out, it was one of the wires from the wire harness came un clipped from one of the primary leads on the coil, piece of rubber was still over it though, so it looked like it was still connected. 

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  • 5 months later...
Go through all the little stuff and make sure everything is connected. basics first. I recently had a real idiot moment.  my bike started breaking under power  up top in the rpms as if the fly wheel or stator was going bad.  I was 2 hrs from home with no parts to swap out.  Thought it was jetting maybe, did slight adjustments just to rule out jetting, I was right it was electrical.  Then I lost spark completely.  Come to find out, it was one of the wires from the wire harness came un clipped from one of the primary leads on the coil, piece of rubber was still over it though, so it looked like it was still connected. 
Thanks for this. It turns out that mine was a loose spade connector on the coil primary :-)

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

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