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Headgaskets leak compression into coolant


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Full engine rebuild, first headgasket leaked water from headbolt #1. Took head off and noticed it was leaking compression into a water jacket and thus pushing water up the nearest head stud and out. Yes it was properly torqued 3 times after build. Now, second vitos headgasket. 2 coats copper spray, correctly torqued twice, let it sit for 3hrs after a short ride. Popped radiator cap and it was pressurized. What the hell? It shouldnt have pressure after 3hrs sitting should it? I didnt even ride it enough to get to full engine temp. Head looked straight on the straight edge. Cylinders and rest of engine are brand new with 1.8hrs ride time.

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13 hours ago, registered user said:

wow thats alot of work without knowing if theres even a leak. autozone open to 9pm every day. figured he would got it pressured up by now

He said there IS a leak.  I definitely agree it's wise to check before taking stuff apart, but he claims it definitely has a leak and already took it apart. 

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#1- only use oem head gasket

#2- if you have access to a flat piece of granite tape sand paper to and sand the tops of cylinders and bottom of head, I use a three paper progression 100,220,400 finish. Sand in a figure 8 pattern and count revolution so you can evenly do both cylinders if you have no measuring equipment. 

#3 - during assembly slide cylinders on without tightening base nuts, then tighten all head bolts good n tight then do cylinder base nuts. Then torque head 

I use three bond 1211 instead of copper spray.  I've used three bond  in place of a gasket and it's held up so I think it will work just fine for your application. I'm also a firm believer in testing everything before tear down and after assembly. Make sure your allowing 24hrs cure time for any glues or sprays your using, if it's cold out it takes longer. If it's not fully set up it will get pulled/pushed out of crevices and seep leaving you with wasted labor 

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4 hours ago, trickedcarbine said:

He said there IS a leak.  I definitely agree it's wise to check before taking stuff apart, but he claims it definitely has a leak and already took it apart. 

the way i understand is there was a leak. he took it apart and copper sprayed a new gasket. now he claims there seemed like pressure in the rad after 3hrs. which makes no sense because the system wouldnt hold pressure for 3hrs if there was a leak back into the cylinder. imo sounds like this dude hasnt a clue and needs some assistance

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This sounds like it should be a pretty obvious issue that should stand out.  Emphasis needs to also be on flatness of the top deck of the cylinders.  I have never been a fan of having two separate cylinders with a common cylinder head but thats what we got.  I might recommend to obtain some Persian Blue or equivalent from a parts store and put a very light film on the head without the gasket and torque 5ftlb.  Then loosen and remove head straight up without sliding it around.  Look at the contact on the head and cylinders to determine where the issue is.  

I have seen where two different base gaskets were used or the locating dowels are not placed on the cylinder bases.  The missing dowels can cause the cylinders to be out of place and cause misalignment once the head is torqued.  

A proper precision straight edge can also be used on the top of the cylinders and use a .001" feeler gauge to determine if there is an issue.  

 

I do not recommend tightening the head before the base nuts as if things are note aligned, the base can develop a leak.  

 

Brandon

Mull Engineering

 

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On 11/24/2017 at 9:55 PM, Wreckless_Rider said:

Head looka flat with straight edge. Deck on both cylindera looks flat. All material removed thoroughly. Explain chamfering of the head stud holes? If it is what i think it is, there not...

there should be a 45* angle at the top of the head stud holes, 1mm (1/32" or so) deep

if the top of the threads just ends with a jagged type burr the torque from the nut could pull the top surface up and create a leak.

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On 11/26/2017 at 3:00 PM, registered user said:

the way i understand is there was a leak. he took it apart and copper sprayed a new gasket. now he claims there seemed like pressure in the rad after 3hrs. which makes no sense because the system wouldnt hold pressure for 3hrs if there was a leak back into the cylinder. imo sounds like this dude hasnt a clue and needs some assistance

If the piston in the cylinder that is leaking pressure into the cooling system is above all of the ports, it will hold its pressure. Dont you think? Only had maybe 5lb pressure in it. Pretty sure it would hold that no problem. Think outside of the box. Dont bash me

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On 11/26/2017 at 3:00 PM, registered user said:

 imo sounds like this dude hasnt a clue and needs some assistance

AND for the record bub. Pulled head off and obvious compression leak into coolant port was found. On left cylinder. After further inspection, cylinder head itself was flat, except for a small raised portion right between a coolant passage and the combustion chamber. Half ass machine shop in town. SO in other words, if the piston is above all the ports in the cylinder, and the rings are healthy to pass a leakdown test, then the pressure will infact stay held in the cooling system. Bought a cool head. Problem solved

Edited by Wreckless_Rider
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