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Help With 01 Banshee Full Rebuld Horror Story .


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Hello Everyone I welcome you to my horror Story, :( 

 

Hopefully I can get some of my questions answered and some help to steer me in the right direction.  I recently bought a banshee 01, it's my first 2 stroke. At time of purchase banshee had FMF head pipes + FMF core 2 silencers, UNI filter, Stock stroke crank, 66.25 Pistons, stock cylinders, Stock carbs with air box + lid  running 300 main, 25 pilots, Gas was pump premium with 32:1 mix of BenoL, at the time of purchase Compression test was not done, just a quick ride through the gears and did notice  neutral was very hard to find Also noticed that when you stand the banshee upright oil would leak out from somewhere though at the time i figured it was just overflow from somewhere

 

After couple days riding, coolant starting leaking from the head or somewhere in that general area as the coolant started to leak on the head pipes. Replaced the radiator with an over sized one, filled with 50/50 coolant, Still same issue. Next took of the cylinder head , sanded down the top of the head slightly as it was a little nicked up, replaced the head gasket. This solved the coolant leak issue. :(

 

Next ride, I started to notice that oil was dripping heavy out of the silencer pipes, I pulled off the spark plugs and they were fouled with oil, replaced the spark plugs, cleaned the carbs and went down to 280 main + 25 pilots still, Issue was still there so I went to local Yamaha dealer and they recommended to change the type of 2 stroke oil I use, I switched from the BenoL to amsoil dominator at new ratio of 40:1. This did not solve the problem. I also changed the transmission oil to belray and did notice that the oil was very watery and milky when it was flushed out. :Crybaby:

 

Next ride, I noticed that the banshee was not getting alot of power and kept bogging down, As i was attempting to get the bike out of the woods and back onto my trailer, the bike in mid 3d gear just stopped lost complete power, and smoke started coming from the head, I managed to push it to trailer and when I got home , I opened the cylinder head and saw that my pistons were now trash and so was the cylinder head . Further inspection i noticed that the crank rod was loose and there was alot of play up and down as the bearing inside the rod ( i think that's what it's called ) somehow ended up not there and now somewhere in the bottom end.

 

I ended up stripping the bike completely down and as a newbie I broke some parts along the way including cracking the engine cases as I'm a dumb ass who didn't just buy a 40.00 case opener and followed some dumb youtuber smack the case open with a rubber mallet, I also noticed when I removed the clutch basket that it had alligator teeth as shown in the pictures, and that the Water pump plastic gear which is on the impeller was completely stuck on it that I had to drill a hole into just to remove though it was spinning I could not pull it off like the manual said ( yes I removed the cir-clip and washer)

 

My issue is now I need some direction of how to properly rebuild this motor and with proper parts I ended up buying a used Crank from some random guy on craigslist , When i inspected the crank there was no play in the rods and just looked like seals need to be replaced and all the gears and bearings spun freely. How do i make sure this crank is ok? Can i take it anywhere to have it balanced to make sure it is spinning straight?

 

Bought a new top and bottom case from ebay with No Chain break, had the cases bead blasted. I have included a picture of how I want the motor to look and I know it will not be cheap, I just want it done right, I'm not looking to resell it but ride it.

 

Frame, steering stem, foot pegs, swing arm was powder coated Hot Candy Blue

 

Bought new bushings and bearings for every part, new Mullen water pump impeller, new main water pump gear, V force 4 reeds, New uni air filter , PJ1 OIL and cleaner

 

Since I will be boring the cylinders to their last bore ( not sure if it is last bore) 66.50, is it even worth it to do that? Or should i search for a pair of stock jugs with 64.00 bore and buy pistons for them.

 

I will be buying a cool head, which type and dome size do I go with? , Im in NJ and sea level is 219 above, and I want to run premium gas with no race fuel

 

What do I do with the cases if im trying to get that look in the photos? Have them polished? Painted? Pro's / Cons

 

What do I do about the cylinder head? Keep it ? Replace it with Cool Head??

 

Why did my bike shit on me? What could have caused this failure? Crank? Oil? Water pump? The previous owner who didn't take care of it at all? Riding it in the cold?

 

I don't want to put this motor back together and have same BS issues. Any help any suggestions would GREATLY be appreciated. If you made it this far thank you.

 

http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/Bansheenjx/story

 

Please look at the photos I have taken

Edited by BansheeNJX
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That thing was lean, then you leaned it out even more...

 

Case oil was douched up and you just flushed it? (How do you flush cases?)

 

You said you bought the proper parts, and then mention your used crank.

 

Add your clutch issues and the fact that those cylinders are at max bore.

 

 

Man, there's a lot going on there. Its safe to say that this thing is due for a Full rebuild by a competent builder. You need new cylinders as well since yours are at the end of their life. That thing needs to be new everything down to the bearings, seals, and probably everything under the clutch cover. What is your budget? I'd say that if you can't come up with enough to pay a builder to do it all, then start looking at the possibility of buying a complete used running motor from someone reputable.

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That thing was lean, then you leaned it out even more...

 

Case oil was douched up and you just flushed it? (How do you flush cases?)

 

You said you bought the proper parts, and then mention your used crank.

 

Add your clutch issues and the fact that those cylinders are at max bore.

 

 

Man, there's a lot going on there. Its safe to say that this thing is due for a Full rebuild by a competent builder. You need new cylinders as well since yours are at the end of their life. That thing needs to be new everything down to the bearings, seals, and probably everything under the clutch cover. What is your budget? I'd say that if you can't come up with enough to pay a builder to do it all, then start looking at the possibility of buying a complete used running motor from someone reputable.

 

Yes , lots of stuff wrong with it. I don't have a budget set, and A neighbor is helping me with the build as he has built 2 stroke motors before.

 

The cases are mint and I already have them + are bead blasted. That crank i got for 50.00 and just took a shot at it and now I'm thinking not to risk it and just buy a brand new one, so it wouldnt have been such a lose on them. I'm already in the whole 2200 plus 400 powder, 150 cases, 50 used crank, etc.....

 

Thanks for your advice - I personally would like to build it from the ground rather than take a risk and buy another motor for excess of 1200.00 AHHHH i don't know what to do?

 

The cylinders , do they make a difference if I buy them aftermarket or do I go OEM with them?

 

The oil was just flushed by the oil drain plug i meant- 

 

Thank you for your reply -

Edited by BansheeNJX
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Consider aftermarket top end and crank. It would be a good way to buy most of what you need in an already thought out kit.

 

There are endless options, but I'd recommend looking at the Serval stuff from CP Industries since you are needing new cyls. Lots of site sponsors are vendors. Guys like Jeff at FAST can get you the top end and crank, as well as fresh replacements for all the little clips and hardware for the clutch side.

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Consider aftermarket top end and crank. It would be a good way to buy most of what you need in an already thought out kit.

 

There are endless options, but I'd recommend looking at the Serval stuff from CP Industries since you are needing new cyls. Lots of site sponsors are vendors. Guys like Jeff at FAST can get you the top end and crank, as well as fresh replacements for all the little clips and hardware for the clutch side.

Thank you for that info -

 

This any good? 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Banshee-350-Complete-Rebuild-Kit-Cylinders-Wiseco-Pistons-Gaskets-Crank-/201326235677?hash=item2edffa901d&vxp=mtr

 

pretty expensive maybe i can find a complete motor for less AHHHHH once again-

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Wow, multitude of rookie mistakes.

 

Should have bought a Clymers repair manual before you even started riding it. Might haved saved some coin.

 

Hear that laughing sound? That's the crank seller still going. Generally speaking a used crank is like a used condom, already someone else's mess.

 

Depending on type of riding looks like you're stuck with either serval or cub cyl. Only because if you want a motor looking like pics you don't want to polish worn out stock jugs. Odds of finding low bore stock jugs are very slim.

 

No clue where you heard you need case splitter for a Banshee.

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