Which Stator do I use?

[Jgspahn]

I found three stators in a lot of parts I bought. They are all three different in little ways.. hopefully yall can help me figure out what is what

 

 

 

1. This one (above) has to be something besides stock. The poles are twice as thick as the other two, and the covering of the wires is like braided instead of just the usual plastic shield. Also, only half the poles are covered in the plastic stuff.

 

 

 

2. This one (above) has all the poles covered in that plastic stuff, and seems to have some wire grounded to it in different places than the first one

 

 

 

3. This one (above) seems to be pretty similar to the #2 one, but it looks smaller and feels lighter or something to me. BUT as an added  bonus it came attached to an adjustable timing plate.. SCORE!

[J-Madd]

2nd one

[FullThrottle_06']

Run the stator in the second pic. with the adjustable timing plate in the third pic. Also, if you have a Ohm meter and a clymers manual, check the resistance readings on the stator you choose to run to make sure it is within spec.

[Jgspahn]

Ok, so the second one. Just wondering, why not the first? It is bigger than the other two ( I would think that meant more power ) and has like braided wires in it which makes me think better made.. just seems better made, except for having only half the plastic stuff on it. Also, how do you tell if a stator has a floating/floated ground?

[J-Madd]

2nd is oem

[Jgspahn]

Here is a different angle to explain what I mean. The one on top is the 2nd one from above and the bottom one is the first. Why is it so much bigger?

 

 

[Starwriter]

The 1st one (Bottom one your last pic) is a Rick's Motorsports 200 watt stator. Better quality than a Ricky Stator, but still a crap shoot.

 

http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/part/21-908H/MDBZYW1ZRlozNTA=

[Jgspahn]

DAMN thats a 260 dollar stator.. and its crap?  That sucks.. If it tests out fine do you think I should still use it? Whats the benefit of a 200W Stator?

[Starwriter]

40% chance it will work great for you. 30% chance it will have a high RPM miss. 60% chance it will puke and leave you stranded.

[Jgspahn]

hmmm nice odds there... Ill sell it to you for 200 shipped starwriter 

[Starwriter]

I've already got one on the shelf that I won't risk running. I'll sell you mine for $75 shipped. Then you'll have a matched pair.

[Jgspahn]

Where in my service manual would it tell me how to test it?

[J-Madd]

I stole this from somewhere and it's stores in my phone.

 

 

 

Electrical

xt, here are some electrical specifications for an '87 and up Banshee:

 

Stator resistance:

Ignition coil should be 13.7-20.5 Ohms (red to green wire)

Pickup coil should be 94-140 Ohms (white/red to white/green wire)

Lighting coil should be 0.26-0.38 Ohms (black to yellow wire)

 

Coil resistance:

Primary coil should be 0.28-0.38 Ohms

Secondary coil should be 4,700-7,100 Ohms

 

Pickup coil gap: 0.015"-0.020"

 

Spark plug: NGK BR8ES

[Jgspahn]

How would I check the Primary and Secondary coil? Im about to go check the other ones now.

[Starwriter]

On the ignition coil, check the primary from spade terminal to spade terminal. On the secondary, check from plug boot to plug boot. Add 5,000 ohms for each plug boot. So, you should have about 15,000 ohms with the boots on and about 5,000 if you remove the boots and just check the coil and wires.

 

The Clymer manual is wrong on the coil test procedure.