1999 Banshee Repair

[Spanks906]

Well I am new here and figured that it was a good choice to find a strictly banshee forum. 

My banshee got stolen this summer, and I still haven't gotten it back but the police recovered it but not without damage. 

1)Motor is blown, will not run, I have not actually seen it yet so I cannot determine what is destroyed. 

2) Swingarm is extended and it sucks for riding. 

3) Plastics are destroyed, I need new ones. 

4) Rear caliper/brake pads are shot. 

 

What do you recommend me to do when it comes to the rebuild? 

I want to turn it into a sick trail banshee (I know banshees are not ideal for trails but I love them too damn much) and I was thinking the following:

1) Either aggressive trail porting or MX porting

2) New ITP Holeshot XC or other really grippy tires. 

3) Getting a stock swingarm since mine is extended (+4) and I hate the way it rides (and yes I have tried adjusting suspension)

4) New top end (if cylinders are fine get em ported anyway)

5) All new black plastics

6) New seat cover. 

7) New headlights (mine are taped together, thanks robbers.)

8) New rear caliper/pads

 

Any other suggestions? 

 

Thanks, Brad. 

[Jereme6655]

pancake bearing to stop clutch ball and rod from welding

 

billet water pump

 

billet water pump gear

 

case saver

 

Timing plate (or modified stock plate set to +4)

 

noss style head

 

domes set for your mods

[Spanks906]

pancake bearing to stop clutch ball and rod from welding

 

billet water pump

 

billet water pump gear

 

case saver

 

Timing plate (or modified stock plate set to +4)

 

noss style head

 

domes set for your mods

Who's billet water pump/gear do you recommend? 

 

Is the head really needed? Any idea on price/who makes the best? 

 

Thanks, Brad. 

[noonansar]

Sorry to hear about your wheeler being stolen. I had the same thing happen when I was in highschool with my old Blaster, so I know how frustrating it can be. The mods  Jereme6655 listed are all excellent additions to what you had listed. The head is not necessary, especially if you are on a budget. The cool heads only show a minimal increase in cooling. The nice thing about the cool heads is being able to easily and quickly change domes if you either damage one or want to change compression. They also run o-rings instead of a gasket so head removal is easier than stock and the o-rings are re-useable unlike the stock head gasket. I would recommend the cool heads because of there convenience, but I ran a milled stock head for a couple years with no problem. As far as the billet pump impeller and billet drive gear go, I would use Mull Engineering. Mull also makes a modded shift star that cleans up the shifting a bit, and they sell directly on ebay. Another thing to consider is a heavier duty clutch kit. I hear f.a.s.t racing makes the best out there, I have never tried them. I have EBC dirt digger and it works good. Just remember to soak your fiber plates in oil before installing them. What are you running for pipes? 

[noonansar]

Also, watch the for sale section on here. If you are not in a hurry you can score some great deals on some really nice used parts.

[Spanks906]

Sorry to hear about your wheeler being stolen. I had the same thing happen when I was in highschool with my old Blaster, so I know how frustrating it can be. The mods  Jereme6655 listed are all excellent additions to what you had listed. The head is not necessary, especially if you are on a budget. The cool heads only show a minimal increase in cooling. The nice thing about the cool heads is being able to easily and quickly change domes if you either damage one or want to change compression. They also run o-rings instead of a gasket so head removal is easier than stock and the o-rings are re-useable unlike the stock head gasket. I would recommend the cool heads because of there convenience, but I ran a milled stock head for a couple years with no problem. As far as the billet pump impeller and billet drive gear go, I would use Mull Engineering. Mull also makes a modded shift star that cleans up the shifting a bit, and they sell directly on ebay. Another thing to consider is a heavier duty clutch kit. I hear f.a.s.t racing makes the best out there, I have never tried them. I have EBC dirt digger and it works good. Just remember to soak your fiber plates in oil before installing them. What are you running for pipes? 

 

 

FMF Gold Series Fatty pipes with PowerCore 2 silencers. The pipes are not in the best cosmetic shape but are physically sound. I will wrap them in header wrap to help keep heat in em' and look better. 

 

Thanks, Brad. 

[noonansar]

I haven't run fmf pipes personally, but I hear they are a great all around pipe. I would definately bump up the compression for better low/mid torque.

[Spanks906]

What kind of domes woukd you suggest with hjr aggressive trail porting and the fatty pipes??

 

Thanks, Brad.

[noonansar]

As far as heads go I have a pro design and I like it. A ton of guys on here like Noss, and I hear good things about Chariot Performance. Those 3 all use the same domes. Your builder will be able to set you up with the correct domes for your setup when he ports your cylinders. Dome size depends on fuel type, elevation, and your desired compression. Whoever does your porting should be able to suggest dome size and be able to give you a decent idea on jetting.

[noonansar]

There are a few really good builders that are site sponsers on here.

[Jereme6655]

if you get your cylinders ported, you will be needing either a milled head or a cool head type to bump up your compression.  When builders port cylinders, they raise and lower exhaust ports....in essence changing the timing that the piston seals and unseals the ports.  This causes compression to drop.....which in turn requires compression to be raised to get back to a good running motor.

[Spanks906]

I've decided to skip porting/head for now but switch to dmc 916 pipes. Got to loom at it today and one of the expansion chambers is destroyed. I think the expansion chamber is big bulbous part? I'm familiar with four strokes but not really two strokes.

[Spanks906]

Look not loom, darn swype!

[Jereme6655]

yes that is the expansion chamber.  Also you never want to use heat wrap and wrap a 2stroke pipe......that is like death to a 2stroke.  4strokes can handle it however the heat generated in the expansion pipe will inherently get sucked back into the cylinder during intake and as we all know....heat kills power.  Not to mention causes parts to overheat and flex/warp/melt.

[Spanks906]

Any thoughts on the DMC 916 pipe? I have been told its a decent low/great mid pipe because of the 2-to-1 style. Any truth to that?