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Posted (edited)

Im thinking about jumping into the alky scene. Its been suggested by my builder and several guys on here. Thing is i havent a clue about it at all. The carbs are setup for my motor, actually were on my motor at one time. Neways whats this purging? and what ratio? anything else i need to know? Thanks guys for helping a alky virgin out here. I did a search on "converting to alky? and got nothing.....Thankks

Brad

Edited by Ieat4strokes
Posted

Purging is running the motor on gasoline with the methanol carbs on. I use a portable tank. I mix the ratio 32:1 and you can use 93 octane to purge. Purging is getting the methanol out of the motor so it doesn't rust the inside of your motor. Methanol attracts moisture which is water and water on steel is rust. Rust can damage bearings which in then binds the cranks. Rust can get on steel sleeve cylinders also. When purging don't let the motor idle for too long because it will fill the crank case of gas and be a pain to start next time. Work the throttle up and down the rpm. The carbs you want to be rich. It is best to get someone that know how to tune on methanol to help you because it can be alot of money if you burn it up a few times.

Posted

Yea man, do it!! its not a big deal at all, here is some pointers that I have learned and applied to my bikes.

 

I switched my trail bike back and forth one year, just to experiment and do something different.

 

1. You must convert your carbs to run alky. I suggest running 34PJ's as I have had good luck with them. Also had good luck with 35PWK's on Alky. Main jets and dumps are usually drilled out somewhere between .120-.125". Yes, garden hose flow of fuel LOL.

 

2. I use the same ratio of 32:1 with the same oil as I use with gas. Klotz Supertechniplate

 

3. Methanol is "Hygroscopic" Meaning it attracts water. Hence requires purging of gas so your internals don't rust. You must run mixed gas (you can just purge with 87 octane) Most guys run a secondary bottle you can hang from your handlebars and feed fuel lines to your carbs. OR you can just drain the methanol from your tank, and re-fill it with gas and run it until it want to die. This process takes only a minute or two.

 

4. DRILL YOUR GAS CAP VENT TO .125"! (critical for proper fuel flow) Also, it is a good idea to run a Pingel fuel valve to be safe.

 

6. Hammer down on the throttle. You can run methanol rich as hell and you will still run great. Thats how I run mine at least. Engine will run nice and cool, and have planty of lubrication.

 

7. Methanol usually runs for about $2.50 a gallon compared to 110 octane which is about $6.00 here in MI. It about equals out since you burn methanol roughly 2x as fast as gas.

 

Hope that helps you! :headbang:

Posted

Also..you want to run B9ES, BR9ES, B9EGV, etc plugs gapped at 0.018". I run my alky at 20:1 (1 pint to 5 gal). Learn how to read the plugs. No color on an alky plug means that it is rich (and safe). Black on an alky plug is very bad.

Posted (edited)

Also..you want to run B9ES, BR9ES, B9EGV, etc plugs gapped at 0.018". I run my alky at 20:1 (1 pint to 5 gal). Learn how to read the plugs. No color on an alky plug means that it is rich (and safe). Black on an alky plug is very bad.

 

thanks J, i just talked to Jeff briefly and he stated the same (20:1, and .018 gap) he had to take a call from UPS but im gonna call him back to get more info...Is motor reliability a issue on alky? does it affect longevity of the motor vs gas? I cant be rebuilding motor every year lol

Edited by Ieat4strokes
Posted

Go for it!! i run 34pjs. I run a 125 dump , 118 main and a 58 pilot, With power jets. 32:1 supertechniplate. The bike runs cooler and you get more power out of the motor. Best thing i ever did for my bike. I was running race gas for a couple years and it sucks paying almost $7 a gallon.

Posted

After you make the switch to alky you should be able to go up 1 tooth on your front sprocket. I like to run redline alky pre mix and as stated before don't forget to drill out your gas cap, i have seen guys overlook this and starve there motor for fuel. Once you go to alky you will never go back.

Posted

You need to put power jets on your carbs it makes it alot easier to tune it.Also make shore you have plenty of fuel if it leans out it will run crazy.You can hit the kill switch and turn the key off and it will do nothing you have to kill the air supply.

 

 

Posted

They are set up for my motor actually. .120 dumps, powerjets, billet bowls the whole nine. Where actually on my motor at one point lol. But can someone anwser the question about reliability? What is the difference in motor reliability vs gas?

Posted

In my opinion you should rering that motor every year from a racing stand piont,the only diffrence is more maintnance,seals,rubbers,boots,fuel lines,all take a beating from alky.You need check everything good I have seen motors pop from fuel line rubbers stuck in carb,as far as mechanical there should be no big diffrence,my boy runs meth in everything including scooters,his banshee is 5 years strong on meth

Posted

So basically it dries out anything an everything it can? Fuel lines, intakes, orings, gaskets etc. So what about internally, what u cant see? I get what ur saying 5 years is a good amt. Of time on a build. But I know there are rubber orings on my crank will they hold up?

Posted

You just need to purge it right and you will be fine. I use cheap fuel line from home depot so i change mine alot. If you get the stuff from motion pro you can run it for a long time. I pull my carbs off after every time i ride to clean them. Just to make sure they are clean.

 

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/12-0057/

this is the link for motion pro. I'm pretty sure this is the alky line

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