the_only_ozz Posted June 29, 2009 Report Posted June 29, 2009 I just replaced the domes and put new o rings on my cool head. i kicked it over and it started up just fine and idles fine but when i opened up the throttle the engine bogs down and sometimes dies. I tried new plugs, cleaned out the bowls of my carbs, and re checked all my o rings. Nothin works. Is it in the electrical or something to do with my compression? My shee doesn't have the TORRS cuz it has after market carbs. Anybody got any suggestions? Quote
mopar1rules Posted June 29, 2009 Report Posted June 29, 2009 so, your bike ran fine before you switched the head domes? what domes did you put in it now? what was on it before this head? are you just using the o-rings w/the cool head domes? if so, good. the reason i ask, is because i've seen and heard of people using the orings w/the stock steel head gasket.....WTF?? Quote
the_only_ozz Posted June 29, 2009 Author Report Posted June 29, 2009 It ran good and then the o rings went bad and it started to leak antifreeze out of the spark plug hole. It has a pro design head with 18 cc domes in it. I replaced the domes with other 18 cc's just because i've heard of them warping/cracking when the o rings break. Quote
the_only_ozz Posted June 29, 2009 Author Report Posted June 29, 2009 I heard about that but i took my e brake off because i put on an extended swing arm, so i thought that it would act like it was disengaged. I'll check into it tomorrow. Is there any way that i can fix that without buying an extended e brake line? Thanks in advance for the help. Quote
the_only_ozz Posted June 29, 2009 Author Report Posted June 29, 2009 figured it out, thanks to AKHEATHEN, the e brake nub had popped out and was in the engaged position. Thanks a bunch for the help. Quote
AKheathen Posted June 29, 2009 Report Posted June 29, 2009 I heard about that but i took my e brake off because i put on an extended swing arm, so i thought that it would act like it was disengaged. I'll check into it tomorrow. Is there any way that i can fix that without buying an extended e brake line? Thanks in advance for the help. i meant the electrical wiring to the clutch pertch. the green/yellow wire. should be disconnected, or you could have problems where it won't rev past 2300 Quote
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